Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah a proper front diff is amazing in conjunction with a rear one and the transfer.

Brilliant overall package.

Having my "time again", I'd put on -9s turbos ECU/Tune/Exhaust and then do the drivetrain - that's how good the gains are IMO from a driving point of view.

If you just daily drove your car, then maybe not as I did a lot of hillruns and stuff like that making use of it all

i wonder just how much modifying the nissan transfercase needs.

has any1 broken drive chains or stripped drive sprokets? or had the withdrawal lever deform?

ill be using all oem parts for my transfercase rebuild, appart from the N01 clutch pack.

anyone thoughts on other possible mods/improvements to components within the case?

More to it than just a adding in a plate IIRC. The price racepace and other charge is a full rebuild, so that's not just a plate anyway, it's everything being done as new. Certainly worth the money on the performance gain for the dollar scale, in fact i'd go so far as to say i'd do it as a second mod after swapping turbos if I had my time again as it's total car transformation level of improvement.

It's very unlikely there were any modifications other than replacing any worn bearings and seals, and adding one or more additional plates for a quicker response. I'd be interested in specifics if something else was done.

The plate replacement is very similar to reshimming the standard diff in process, and is equally effective; there is nothing wrong with the factory design except they are all a bit worn out after 20 years.

  • 2 months later...
  • 8 months later...

I have been told how good it is to do the modifications to the Trannie and as I will have the car in pieces I am doing it.

As Nismoid said,there must be more to it than adding a couple of plates

Has anyone any experience doing this mod and can explain it, I will need to have the trannie build for Dummies explanation :)

Its not the adding of plates.

Its the arrangement of them.

There are 19 plates in the standard setup, 12 outers and 7 inners to make up the clutch pack,

Outer = O, Inner = I when reading the layout below.....

Stock is IOOIOOIOOIOOIOOIOOI

Full max grip rearrangement would be IOIOIOIOIOIOIOIOIOI

You only need another old tranfer case to rip the plates out of to rearrange your old setup, scavanging the extra inner plates to use, you need to select ones of the right thickness to end up with the correct end clutch pack thickness so some mix and matching is required.

You dont need to go full grip, you can make up your own arrangement of plates like something in the middle like IOIOOIOOIOOIOOIOIOI

Same theory as playing with a Cusco LSD clutch pack arrangement, see page 9 below.......

http://www.cusco.co.jp/en/pdf/LSD%20Guide%20Final.pdf

  • Like 2

Good info GTRPSI - a question:

I have never had a transfer case apart - do the plates in the clutch pack have faces that wear? Is there any point in getting new plates or do you find the old plates generally or always serviceable?

Also another- I have heard that all transfer cases are not the same e.g. there is reliable info that the Stagea has 4 pucks pushing the clutch packs together while the GTR has 6.

But I have also heard tell that the R33 GTR transfer case is stronger than the R34 GTR - anyone able to confirm and say what the difference is?

My Mechanic said he would be putting new plates in the trannie and always does when doing a rebuild and adding extra plates.

Maybe just a business practice but I a happy to have all new plates while he is doing the build , seems the best way to go.

Think of the clutch pack like a motorbike wet clutch or LSD clutch pack, yes they have surfaces that wear on both sides of each plate.

You can pick and chose between 2 transfer case packs, pick different wear clutches to add or reduce the whole pack total thickness.

So if you have one slightly worn and the assebly total is a bit short you could use one or 2 with no wear inside the pack to compensate for the thickness missing on the thin one.

If they are all very worn you could add a extra plate to the mix.

Remember you need to get the snap ring that holds the whole assembly on to the drum so you cant go too thick on the assembly.

Picture of clutch pack plates in the external link below....

http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/30-parts-sale/142604-gtr-transfer-case-clutch-pack.html

Diagram of workshop manual layout, you can see the plates laid out, outer and inner order.....(post 15)

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149088-cant-get-attessa-to-work-properly-in-r32-gtr-for-track-use/

Edit; Close up of the friction inner...

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/165619-attesa-clutch-thickness.html

Obviously if its worn down through the friction base, its bin time....

Edited by GTRPSI
  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...

Although their boxes are smooth as silk, everything I've read and heard point to these AGY being a "circuit" box and not a "drag/hillilmb/dumbshit" box. I'm trying to get their synchro gear to go in my new box but it doesn't look promising :(

Hey ,

how it ended up with AG-Y ? Anyone know how to deal with them ?

Racepace offered us one already done for considerably less than that, id suggest picking up the phone and talking with them......(unsure if it was a one off built one ready to go that they wanted out the door though)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...