Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was at the track a few weeks ago and kept blowing intercooler hoses off at each end. Managed to do a bandaid fix at the track, but what's the most effective way of securing them?

The hoses themselves appear to be in good condition, but the clamps were a bit old and loose. Would a high strength clamp like the one pictured do the trick?

What about hard pipe kits? Are Just Jap's any good? From the photos the bends look fine but the clamps themselves don't appear to be of very good quality.

What are some other methods of keeping them secure?

NCL_GBS_STC.jpg
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437821-blowing-intercooler-pipes/
Share on other sites

Best way to do it one is get some sprinb tension clamps all that bulky t bolt stuff is rubbish. Heres what i use

http://www.norma.net.au/products/hose-clamps/norma/norma-constant-tension-hose-clamps

Very well priced nice and compact and will not come off. Also make sure all pipes have a lip at the end of them.

worm drive hose clamps arent that good, I use the ones as posted in the first post, or similar ones and have no problems at all with them. Running 24psi now and no issues

Make sure to clean the pipe and the silicone joiner with wax and grease remover or something like that so that there is no oily residue etc on them. A nice bead on the end of the pipes will do wonders but some of my pipes don't have these and work alright with the good clamps and a good clean.

What have you got in it? Still standard hoses? If so might be a good time to get some silicone joiners just to refresh the old ones (If they are original)

But if they are still nice and soft then there is problably no issue with them.

Normal clamps were the bane of my existence until I bought a bunch of the ones shown in the pic in the first post. I haven't had issues since even without beads on some pipes.

Another thing to consider is make sure you don't have any load on the pipes ie:get it all sitting nicely first then tighten them.

Can't say I ever had a problem over 3 cars/8 years and always over 20psi with standard clamps/Norma style ones.

Often you'll find a bit of oil gets onto the cooler pipes, ensure you give them a good cleaning off first and that sometimes can make all the difference with stopping things moving too much.

Also as stated, check engine mounts. If things are moving around too much that will also cause you to pop a clamp off a lot more easily.

I've been using marine grade clamps. They are the same basic design as any clamp, but better quality.

When joining two hoses together with just a short bit if pipe I use 2 hose clamps. One on each hose, and then I cut the third clamp into short lengths of stainless material and have the two clamps spot welded together at the required distance. This works great and still allows a lot of hose movement without any leakage.

If my explanation isn't too good I can post up a picture tomorrow.

Are you saying that you put 2 clamps in then weld parts of a 3rd clamp between the existing 2?

if so..... why?

When two clamps are joined together and are put over a join, hose movement and pressure can't blow the join apart as the straps hold the hose together. Especially useful over short joins. This join held 30 psi no problems. There is no lips on the join either, its just a straight piece of pipe.

I am not a fan of bolt on hose clamps like those above. They can distort the hose when clamped, pinching it where the clamp closes up diameter and result in an air leak there because of it.

post-26553-0-21495400-1390338514_thumb.jpg

Edited by GTRNUR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...