Need Advice On Building A 330-350Wkw R32 Gtr(Street Only)

[92GTR-Dave]

To start this off, this is my very first import car that I have ever owned. My last car was a 2000 Trans AM. I recently got stationed in Tokyo, Japan and will be here for the next 3 years. I've been doing (trying) tons of research on this car. Not sure where to start, everything I find usually has to deal with the car being a track car. This car WILL NEVER see a day at the track. My main goal is 330-350wkw.

I know the 100,000km maintance just around the corner(99,000km currently). It's currently my DD but will not be in about 3 years when I get orders back to the states. What should I have put in when I have that maintenance done(after market)? I guess the main question is, Where do I start? If someone could easily link me to a build or help me figure out what would get me to that point. (I have included a picture of my car).

[Count Grantleyish]

HKS GT-SS (or Garrett -9s), PFC, ID1000 and Nismo AFM's and you're done.

330kw, perfect for street car.

/thread.

[MrStabby]

^ 100% correct.

[92GTR-Dave]

What would you suggest for a clutch?

[niZmO_Man]

Nismo

[r32-25t]

HKS GT-SS (or Garrett -9s), PFC, ID1000 and Nismo AFM's and you're done.

330kw, perfect for street car.

/thread.

throw a clutch, fuel pump, cam gears and exhaust in there for the little bit extra reliability and gains they provide

[Count Grantleyish]

throw a clutch, fuel pump, cam gears and exhaust in there for the little bit extra reliability and gains they provide

Ah yeah, forgot about them...

Do these as well.

/thread, and bury it

[Jazzadub]

Has the crank collar been done?

The early R32s have a narrow drive which will fatigue the oil pump gears over time, especially once you start leaning on the engine.

If it hasn't been done, it's likely a matter of when it will break.

So if you don't want to be replacing bearings if and when it goes kapoot, I would recommend getting that swapped out when you get the turbos replaced, as you will need the engine out for that anyway.

I would also recommend a Tomei oil pump, but some might say that's just being pedantic.

[r32-25t]

You do not remove the engine to replace turbos

[Jazzadub]

OK my mistake, but I still think upgrading the oil pump and drive is worthwhile!

[MrStabby]

IMO since oil pump is an engine out job, just check the harmonic balancer is good and dont limiter bash. The drive should be ok if you do that. Original turbos seem to be a much greater risk so i'd put a high priority on them.

[Anfanee]

Depends on how much you want to spend. To do it properly you will need to take the Engine out full forged bottom end with new Nitto/Tomei/Whatever Oil pump new collar, extend the sump. But to do this you need a decent budget. HOWEVER, if you leave the standard pump in there and if its standard internals you are risking it pretty hard.

Other than that if you want that power as cheaply as possible what Grant said:

HKS GT-SS (or Garrett -9s), PFC, ID1000 and Nismo AFM's

Nismo twin clutch

a GOOD, PROPERLY DONE catch can setup

and possibly a koyorad 53mm Radiator.

Personally id go the -9's.

[Count Grantleyish]

No need for oil pump/collar or engine rebuild just yet since you can kill rebuilt motor as well, overfill the sump by a litre as a 'insurance' for time being.

When the motor is dead, go nuts.

/thread and please bury it for once and all! We have 300-350kw thread somewhere in this forum with heaps of information.

[92GTR-Dave]

No need for oil pump/collar or engine rebuild just yet since you can kill rebuilt motor as well, overfill the sump by a litre as a 'insurance' for time being.

When the motor is dead, go nuts.

/thread and please bury it for once and all! We have 300-350kw thread somewhere in this forum with heaps of information.

In my original post I requested if someone could link me to a build. If you know where this information is please point me into the right direction.

Depends on how much you want to spend. To do it properly you will need to take the Engine out full forged bottom end with new Nitto/Tomei/Whatever Oil pump new collar, extend the sump. But to do this you need a decent budget. HOWEVER, if you leave the standard pump in there and if its standard internals you are risking it pretty hard.

Other than that if you want that power as cheaply as possible what Grant said:

HKS GT-SS (or Garrett -9s), PFC, ID1000 and Nismo AFM's

Nismo twin clutch

a GOOD, PROPERLY DONE catch can setup

and possibly a koyorad 53mm Radiator.

Personally id go the -9's.

My current amount I have to "blow" is about $5k USD(Edit: 5k is not my limit.). Not exactly sure where to start, then move from there.

Edited April 3, 2014 by 92GTR-Dave

[Ambi3nce]

Well in a few weeks my plan to achieve same goal happens.

-9s

-dump pipes (have dump back already)

-vipec ECU

-cam gears

-poncams

-1200 DW injectors

-fuel pump

-100k service

-ati harmonic balancer

-blitz 42mm rad.

-e85 conversion

Already dropped in coppermix twin bigger brakes and all the handling gear,

Will report back with results.

BTW mines a 94 r32 so no crank collar issues

Edited April 4, 2014 by Ambi3nce

[Truffles]

Well in a few weeks my plan to achieve same goal happens.

-9s

-dump pipes (have dump back already)

-vipec ECU

-cam gears

-poncams

-1200 DW injectors

-fuel pump

-100k service

-ati harmonic balancer

-blitz 42mm rad.

-e85 conversion

Already dropped in coppermix twin bigger brakes and all the handling gear,

Will report back with results.

BTW mines a 94 r32 so no crank collar issues

That will do it without a sweat.

[Count Grantleyish]

Why Poncams?

No need for cams.

[Count Grantleyish]

In my original post I requested if someone could link me to a build. If you know where this information is please point me into the right direction.

Search came up with these.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/254450-79s-or-5s-garretts/?hl=+#82089s=&page=47

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/387645-stock-rb26-9s-e85/?hl=+#82089s=&page=21

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/322850-garrett-gt2860-9s/#82089s=&page=19

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/236467-definitive-guide-to-building-300-330awkw-gt-r/#82089s=&page=19

These are mainly discussion with advice to what works well.

And there's a thread for you to look and compare power curves,

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/93880-rb26-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/ - my first crack at gt-ss equipped gtr is in page 14 or thereabouts.

See, t'was easy to find info...

[Jazzadub]

My R32 with RB26DETT swap was putting out 330AWKW with Garrett GT2860R-9s, 740cc injectors, in tank Walboro fuel pump, and a Link G4 ECU, pretty much everything else was standard power wise.

N1 oil pump shat itself so am currently rebuilding with what I would consider the minimum required for a safe road/track build (so you can probably ignore the fuel surge tank for example).

Link is in signature.

I am also getting a flex fuel tune so am hoping for ~380WKW on 85% ethanol and around the same as before on 0% ethanol - 330WKW.

Edited April 4, 2014 by Jazzadub

[Ambi3nce]

Why Poncams?

No need for cams.

I realise don't need but half heads apart with major service and gears, plus that lumpy idle .

I know marginal gain for response but type a/b set up right is still a gain so will do it now so only have to tune once.