Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just switched over today. Very happy.

2000 BNR34 GT-R V-Spec II

Previously insured with Lumley SV. (Regular daily driven policy)

Premium: $1812

Excess: $500

Agreed Value: $53,000

Now with NRMA VVC. (Restricted Use policy)

Premium: $952

Excess: $300

Agreed Value: $65,000

Although hard to compare as they are two different usage policies im still happy. No problems with the usual mods: exhaust, wheels, suspension, intake and audio system.

Lumley were not prepared to increase the agreed value so it was an easy choice considering the vehicle does not do daily duties anymore anyways.

Edited by Hakosuka22
  • Like 4

swapped over to them too, $5k agreed value above what anyone else would offer, $40 per month $300 excess choice of repairer, glass cover. and that's with no loyalty discount so very happy also.

  • Like 1

point them to car sales to get the mean/ average sale value for R32gtrs, its currently well over 30k.

give them the explanation of the USA market opening to justify it, they listened to me and did it. I asked for $35 and they gave me 30 as mines a stock 1989

  • Like 1

The guy on the call was rather understanding, he was looking at carsales himself noting the average around 30k.

I asked for 40k hoping to settle around 35 ideally or 30 at the minimum...

Mines pretty standard too with a few bolt ons and exterior bits and bobs

Hey guys, I thought you may find this cool........

I rang NRMA today and asked what can be done to comprehensively insure my Aussie Delivered R32 GT-R for the GT-R festival in 8 days time.

It is currently insured with them but on "laid up cover," meaning fire and theft cover only at home as the car is not registered.

They granted me comprehensive cover for "special occasions" providing I obtained an unregistered vehicle permit.

I got the permit from the RMS yesterday for $23.00.

I'm now all set for the festival. Happy days! Driving an R32 GT-R legally with no number plates for 50kms round trip may be interesting!

Note the comments in the special conditions section attached.

Bob.

post-78207-0-94514200-1463732275_thumb.jpg

  • Like 3

That's awesome. But how the hell did you convince the rms to grant you a permit to travel to a car show?

No convincing required, it's a legal option available in all states.

Click on Unregistered Vehicle Permit (UVP)

http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/roads/registration/unregistered.html#UnregisteredVehiclePermit(UVP)

Bob.

Hey guys, I thought you may find this cool........

I rang NRMA today and asked what can be done to comprehensively insure my Aussie Delivered R32 GT-R for the GT-R festival in 8 days time.

It is currently insured with them but on "laid up cover," meaning fire and theft cover only at home as the car is not registered.

They granted me comprehensive cover for "special occasions" providing I obtained an unregistered vehicle permit.

I got the permit from the RMS yesterday for $23.00.

I'm now all set for the festival. Happy days! Driving an R32 GT-R legally with no number plates for 50kms round trip may be interesting!

Note the comments in the special conditions section attached.

Bob.

Fascinating!

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...

NRMA VVC 

...now has a new Sum Insured ceiling limit.

$500,000 (up from  $150,000).

* still maximum 10x per month usage

* still needs to be secure

* still needs to be a minimum of 15yrs old.

  • Like 2

My car is currently insured full comprehensive through nrma.

33 gtst and the best they will do is $3500

My rims/tyres are worth more. If I'm in an accident I'm screwed

Considering going over to the vvc atleast I might get what the cars worth

54 minutes ago, CaptainFresh said:

My car is currently insured full comprehensive through nrma.

33 gtst and the best they will do is $3500

My rims/tyres are worth more. If I'm in an accident I'm screwed

Considering going over to the vvc atleast I might get what the cars worth

Normal NRMA is not the section you go to?

NRMA Classic and vintage mob, but they are not for your daily drive car, have a look on Google

Ive driven my car a total of 400kms in 2 months. I drove to sydeny from newcastle last weekend. Which was 250kms. Otherwise i would have driven 150ks in 2 months.... safe to say its not daily driven. Not even a weekend car at this point. I occasionly drive to the shops and back just to give it a run..

Unsure what you mean otherwise... im just stating if you go through the typical full comprehensive at nrma with a gtst your going to be screwed in an accident etc

As my car is 21years old, not daily driven etc it qualifies for vintage and classic insurance. Where i will get closer to what the car is actually worth.

3 hours ago, Terry_GT-R34 said:

Really cheap cars are better off insured for "fire and theft..."

Fire and theft is a croc of shit... they cover max $10k, then you minus excess, admin, other bs costs.. you end up with a few grand. Also means premiums will be about $600...

I heard vintage insurance is much better, in terms of cover and cost. My car literally does 2~3000 kms per year, the most it ever travels is when it goes to Wakefield Park and back home. 1x tank of E85 usually lasts me about 1 month, most of it wasted on starting it up revving it a bit in the backyard and turning it off (yes not good for oil but gets replaced every 2nd track day)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...