Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cool, I'd be interested to see how it works for you. I thought the Attessa relied on a signal from the ABS or something but I guess not.

So I have a power goal of 600 HP + at the flywheel

Garrett -5 turbos

Tomei dumps

Nissan manifolds

Standard head

Tomei cam gears

Tomei fuel rail & reg

Nismo 600cc injectors

Standard crank

Forged rods & pistons

ARC cooler

Haven't sorted front pipe yet...I do have one that's a bit beat up but was thinking of using it and trying to do a side exiting exhaust.

Something similar to this:

http://www.gtrlife.com/forums/topic/78553-exhaust-turn-down-track-pipe-any-interest/

Has anyone done anything similar?

My worry is the ground clearance for the turn-down piece that will be fabricated to bolt to the front-pipe exit as it won't have the trans tunnel to follow like a normal rear exiting exhaust does...also will most likely be quite loud?

Cool, I'd be interested to see how it works for you. I thought the Attessa relied on a signal from the ABS or something but I guess not.

It does, or at least the ABS is part of the Attessa computer. Hydraulic bypass won't affect the Attessa computer though.

On a side note, I disagree pretty strongly with the statement on their website "Removing ABS for a track driven car is a must and is strongly suggested. ABS modules are known to kick in under hard braking or in the wet unexpectidely. "

ummm....no

  • Like 2

So I have a power goal of 600 HP + at the flywheel

Garrett -5 turbos

Tomei dumps

Nissan manifolds

Standard head

Tomei cam gears

Tomei fuel rail & reg

Nismo 600cc injectors

Standard crank

Forged rods & pistons

ARC cooler

Haven't sorted front pipe yet...I do have one that's a bit beat up but was thinking of using it and trying to do a side exiting exhaust.

Something similar to this:

http://www.gtrlife.com/forums/topic/78553-exhaust-turn-down-track-pipe-any-interest/

Has anyone done anything similar?

My worry is the ground clearance for the turn-down piece that will be fabricated to bolt to the front-pipe exit as it won't have the trans tunnel to follow like a normal rear exiting exhaust does...also will most likely be quite loud?

ECU of choice???

I am thinking it's going to have to be a Haltech Platinum Pro mate. Keen to have the ability to run 98, flex or full E85

Don't suppose anyone has one for sale...?

if you have the Kesh get the new elite. It shits all over the plat pro tuning wise.

Damn Elitists !

Is it available now?

Is there a comparison table of features Pro V Elite ?

Edit:

Not sure the new features of the Elite will make a difference to the 32 GTR

Maybe some easier tuning.

Looks to be aimed at newer vehicles and a wider variety

Edited by Sinista32
  • Like 2

Damn Elitists !

Is it available now?

Is there a comparison table of features Pro V Elite ?

Edit:

Not sure the new features of the Elite will make a difference to the 32 GTR

Maybe some easier tuning.

Looks to be aimed at newer vehicles and a wider variety

Ultimate tunes have one being tuned right now, and went over it all with me. For a track oriented car it would make a difference.

It does, or at least the ABS is part of the Attessa computer. Hydraulic bypass won't affect the Attessa computer though.

On a side note, I disagree pretty strongly with the statement on their website "Removing ABS for a track driven car is a must and is strongly suggested. ABS modules are known to kick in under hard braking or in the wet unexpectidely. "

ummm....no

With some decent tyres the kinds of line pressures you generate are enough to pretty much stop the old absent from working anyway. I can't remember the abs activating in the dry on track. Not in the wet either but it doesn't rain much over here either.

Also the cycle rate is so slooooow.

I'm running a full AGI cage in my car, easy to install quailty is second to non.

IMO. the chaces of going on your lid, isn't the biggest worry, it's side impact...The AGI seems up for the task.

IMG_4036_zpsf6a48b54.jpg

IMG_4035_zps65ef7fd6.jpg

IMG_4032_zpsfd2dad4c.jpg

As the 600 plus horse power.... Just empty your wallet now :no: .... IMO.... Good luck though, keen to watch the build

  • Like 2

I am thinking it's going to have to be a Haltech Platinum Pro mate. Keen to have the ability to run 98, flex or full E85

Don't suppose anyone has one for sale...?

don't be little girly Robbie.

E85 Flex all the way.

Then you get best of both worlds.

Just can't go passed E85 mate. Its well worth it.

  • 4 weeks later...

Cheers Nigel. Haha yeh spot on mate. Cage looking very nice...looks like you went for the top of line!

don't be little girly Robbie.

E85 Flex all the way.

Then you get best of both worlds.

Just can't go passed E85 mate. Its well worth it.

Yeah mate E85 is locked in now! Obviously Nismo injectors will now be redundant.

Been plenty happening on this but no time to get any photos/post on here

The following parts have been ordered/have arrived:

Tomei oil pump

Tomei cam gears

Tomei sump baffle

Tomei fuel rail

Greddy pulley set (aluminium)

Nismo gearbox mount

Kansai Service Transmission Member Collars

OS Giken O/H Kit Set A for TS2B Clutch Kit

Fuel set up still to be sorted, so far it's as follows:

Factory HICAS hard lines

1150cc Bosch injectors (stainless steel internals)

3L surge tank (anodised)

Holley Dominator 1800 fuel pump (ss internals)

Unsure on FPR - any suggestions?

  • Like 1

May as well go Tomei FPR while you're at it

Not sure it will be compatible with e85 long-term? (internally)

Also have purchased:

-5 turbos (near new)

Tomei dumps (near new)

Engine has been pulled down and the plan so far is:

N1 block (near new) - to be torque plate bored/honed, crack tested etc

Revised lated model OEM crank - to be linished etc

Ross balancer

Tomei oil pump (new)

Tomei sump baffle

Sump extension using plate ally (8.5L capacity)

Head - to be cleaned

ARP head studs

Hi Octane cam baffles

Nitto head drain kit

N1 water pump

Yet to look into:

1. Forged pistons

2. Forged rods

3. Springs

4. Camshafts

Any input/advice/feedback re the above 4 items is always appreciated! :thumbsup:

Edited by $$slowmedown

Do a complete nitto bottom end. Seriously won't regret it. Well priced and amazing quality.

Thanks mate. Will get a quote

what you u think I have in mine? so far I have had no issues with my Tomei FPR.

I think issue comes with time...I've been put onto this to help counter the breakdown/corrosion/gumming

http://lucasoil.com/products/fuel-treatments/safeguard-ethanol-fuel-conditioner-with-stabilizers

what I have been told however (yet to be confirmed) is that E85 rots R32 GTR fuel tanks over time.

If someone else can confirm this, will the slim shady please stand up!

Haven't heard that...anyone had any experience with this?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...