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Jacob's R33 Gtst S2


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Ordered a few things tonight that hopefully should come before the weekend.

HOR cooling panel - Designed for S1 but I'm guessing I can make it fit S2.. For $40 it's worth finding out for others.

PCV Valve and grommet

PCV Valve hose

Oil Filter

Magnetic Sump Plug (for le sh!ts and gigs)

Gear shifter boot thingo that goes to the box. I ripped mine when I changed the clutch.

Updates soon when the parts come

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Cool build mate, just read it all.

With your boost issues (not hitting full boost untill 4th or 5th) I've got the same issue with my car.

I rarely see full boost unless I load it up (like a big hill, or doing a foot on) in 2nd

My car is a bit different, Its a RB20 with a hypergear OP6 highflow, (stock manifolds, return flow cooler, etc) but I'm guessing similar characteristics to your's i.e Turbo thats probably a smidge too big/standard manifolds/restrictive front mount

When I got the turbo, the actuator was preloaded by a few mm (mounting holes slotted) And it had 17psi written in black marker.

We found on the dyno it was opening at 10psi. I had a profec b, so was able to tweak it a bit, but still had some boost dropping up top.

I dont know how/what the 17psi meant on the actuator, it was written on when I had it highflowed.

Pretty happy with the turbo though, its probably too big for my RB20, so I kinda expected the issues im having.

Anyways, I've gone to a 15psi actuator, apexi front mount, super high flow cat and heading back to the tuner in a couple of weeks, will be interesting to see the results.

Are you going to head back to JEM once you fit the actuator?

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Cool build mate, just read it all.

With your boost issues (not hitting full boost untill 4th or 5th) I've got the same issue with my car.

I rarely see full boost unless I load it up (like a big hill, or doing a foot on) in 2nd

My car is a bit different, Its a RB20 with a hypergear OP6 highflow, (stock manifolds, return flow cooler, etc) but I'm guessing similar characteristics to your's i.e Turbo thats probably a smidge too big/standard manifolds/restrictive front mount

When I got the turbo, the actuator was preloaded by a few mm (mounting holes slotted) And it had 17psi written in black marker.

We found on the dyno it was opening at 10psi. I had a profec b, so was able to tweak it a bit, but still had some boost dropping up top.

I dont know how/what the 17psi meant on the actuator, it was written on when I had it highflowed.

Pretty happy with the turbo though, its probably too big for my RB20, so I kinda expected the issues im having.

Anyways, I've gone to a 15psi actuator, apexi front mount, super high flow cat and heading back to the tuner in a couple of weeks, will be interesting to see the results.

Are you going to head back to JEM once you fit the actuator?

Exactly what happens to mine - Big hills and it hits full boost. I think it may be that there is less load in the lower gears somehow hence why we see the problem. Stao reckons it's the front mount but I don't mind upgrading it anyway I just need to start putting money asside for it.

It's interesting that you had the same actuator results that I did - Stao said that mine was a 20PSI actuator but Adam from JEM said it opens up much sooner than that. I read an article once about you need to get the actuator springs as close to the target boost as possible for proper control.

Can I ask ho much power you made with yours and the OP6 Highflow?

Thanks for reading by the way, its good to know that there are a few who do :)

----------

Update, I got the sh!ts today while working on the car. Didn't bother taking many pics because I was so annoyed.

First of all, the PCV grommet fell into the rocker cover so I had to pull that off to fish it out.

Sandwich plate for the oil temp gauge leaked so I removed it also.

Put the carbonfibre coil pack cover on

Changed PCV and hose and grommet

Didn't do much else. Stay tuned because I'll eventually be getting some new goodies.

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Something interesting I found out today - Put a pod on my car for all the choo choo sounds (not really) but it makes more boost easier in all gears... 1.10 pound in second easily and full boost in third easily.

I had the stock airbox on but I put the pod on with the factory snorkel for cold air feed.

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Exactly what happens to mine - Big hills and it hits full boost. I think it may be that there is less load in the lower gears somehow hence why we see the problem. Stao reckons it's the front mount but I don't mind upgrading it anyway I just need to start putting money asside for it.

It's interesting that you had the same actuator results that I did - Stao said that mine was a 20PSI actuator but Adam from JEM said it opens up much sooner than that. I read an article once about you need to get the actuator springs as close to the target boost as possible for proper control.

Can I ask ho much power you made with yours and the OP6 Highflow?

Thanks for reading by the way, its good to know that there are a few who do :)

----------

Update, I got the sh!ts today while working on the car. Didn't bother taking many pics because I was so annoyed.

First of all, the PCV grommet fell into the rocker cover so I had to pull that off to fish it out.

Sandwich plate for the oil temp gauge leaked so I removed it also.

Put the carbonfibre coil pack cover on

Changed PCV and hose and grommet

Didn't do much else. Stay tuned because I'll eventually be getting some new goodies.

Mine makes 240rwkw. Which pretty much what I expected with my mods at the time.

Dyno graph is on the last page of the RB20 dyno result thread. Curve looks good until you look at rpm scale, haha.

I had return flow pipework with a generic china cooler. Still had a 3 inch cat in place, and using a r32 airbox, opened up on on side.

I had to get my car engineered for rego, so wanted to stick with a standard looking engine bay.

My tuner (Unigroup) mentioned using a wastegate spring around 5psi less than target boost, so thats the reason for going with a 15psi actuator.

Tune is next monday, keen to see how it goes.

Might even take a pod filter along, see if I can do a back to back with airbox v's Pod.

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I believe just going decat alone nets roughly 10kw which would make things interesting also. Same goes for external gate, should see similar results to what you posted.

I'm quite happy with the power I made on 98 just a bit too lagy. Good power from your build - Have you got a link to your build thread I can have a look at?

I wouldn't say its an "issue" as such just a "feature" I'm not used to. I'm not sure how it should actually be - Is it normal to not reach full boost in every gear but the higher ones? With my old turbo (maybe because it was smaller) it would get full boost every gear without a question.

For anyone wondering, I did see better results with the boost controller plumbed to the charge pipe which makes sense because that's post intercooler. Still not making as much as I'd like though - e.g. made 17psi this morning on third gear loading onto the M4.

I really want to get a new cooler now just undecided on which one. But then again I need new tires and coilovers first I guess.

Thanks for reading guys!

What year is your turbo if its a bit laggy ? My SS2 is only about a year old and I am quite happy with the response. My cat was really, really restrictive. I can't remember how much but it was an absolute no brainer to bash it out

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Mine makes 240rwkw. Which pretty much what I expected with my mods at the time.

Dyno graph is on the last page of the RB20 dyno result thread. Curve looks good until you look at rpm scale, haha.

I had return flow pipework with a generic china cooler. Still had a 3 inch cat in place, and using a r32 airbox, opened up on on side.

I had to get my car engineered for rego, so wanted to stick with a standard looking engine bay.

My tuner (Unigroup) mentioned using a wastegate spring around 5psi less than target boost, so thats the reason for going with a 15psi actuator.

Tune is next monday, keen to see how it goes.

Might even take a pod filter along, see if I can do a back to back with airbox v's Pod.

That's really good for an RB20! That's probably the most I've seen good work!

How did the tune go?

What year is your turbo if its a bit laggy ? My SS2 is only about a year old and I am quite happy with the response. My cat was really, really restrictive. I can't remember how much but it was an absolute no brainer to bash it out

Umm it's a late 2015 ATR45SAT which is relatively new but it's a huge turbo. I'd love to bash the cat too but I don't like the idea of the EPA raping me lol.

----------------------------

Went drag racing today, car struggled to make 14psi which really made me unhappy. Spoke to the tuner and he said I should bring it back for a power run and go over. He's also not happy that it's not making full boost regardless of gear. Still got a decent time with full interior and half a tank of petrol though.

Gonna message Stao now about it

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What was your best et and mph Jacob?

Will have to grab the slip out of my car but I'm getting terrible 60ft best time was 13.1 and 180kmh... My mate got a 12.8 with a great 60ft at 170kmh which is why I think I can get more pretty easily. Need to get new tires this week too.

Tuner said it should easily get 12.5 with good tires and fixing the boosting problem.

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Found part 1 of the boost problem - Split boost controller line and now I can manage 1.26 bar in 3rd and 4th gear.

Ordered two clevis' for the wastegate actuator in different threads so I can test each one to see what works - Due in a couple of days

I also ordered a new clutch slave cylinder because this HFM one is causing me problems - I would definitely not recommend the HFM big bore slave to anyone. I have had nothing but issues with this HFM one - Should arrive tomorrow from KMS

Radiator cooling panel was ordered from Hioctanedirect for $55 including shipping. It states series one but with a little trimming I got it to fit my series 2.

Last but not least I arrived at work yesterday and went to wind up my window to find that it wouldn't wind up. So I ripped the door apart in the car park and applied direct power to the motor to get it to go up. It went up but I still didn't know what caused it. So I bought a new switch and it still didn't fix it (the switch was always dodgey) - Turns out it was the auto wind up module for the windows which I ripped out tonight and cleaned up.

Pics of parts and progress to come when it all arrives.

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Will have to grab the slip out of my car but I'm getting terrible 60ft best time was 13.1 and 180kmh... My mate got a 12.8 with a great 60ft at 170kmh which is why I think I can get more pretty easily. Need to get new tires this week too.

Tuner said it should easily get 12.5 with good tires and fixing the boosting problem.

Yeah I reckon 12.5 should be a breeze and a 12.0 with decent rubber and good launch.

Good to hear you've tracked down the boost issue[emoji122] and hope the new actuator gives additional improvement[emoji106]

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Yeah I reckon 12.5 should be a breeze and a 12.0 with decent rubber and good launch.

Good to hear you've tracked down the boost issue[emoji122] and hope the new actuator gives additional improvement[emoji106]

Yep the tuner messaged me and said it should be easy! I have no idea how I'm supposed to reduce the 60ft time because that's where I seem to be getting let down. You think launch control on the ECU will help?

Pics of various events and changes lately

Drag racing last Sunday - One of my mates brought his 33 down too so we had a few races together.

830F1587-1B2E-4098-9BA9-AF112415A703_zps

CF Coilpack cover back on

1A7627E4-16A0-4F3F-9940-AA796C7C8A6E_zps

56AD8B18-6919-4D7E-8086-F9FE7266D99B_zps

PCV Drama I was complaining about earlier

FCD6C756-AA98-4612-86BB-09928F3D2E74_zps

6A9E12AA-26F4-41F6-BE51-44135FDE2FEC_zps

FA968027-7E22-42FE-B40A-DE609EB0765A_zps

Ripped the auto wind module out of my car last night as mentioned. Cleaned up the space nicely

AA297A70-919C-42C2-8A0F-DAA6F5E8BBCB_zps

Slave cylinder arrived today at my other office so I'll go pick it up and install it tonight. It also seems that my car is getting a bit hotter than I would like so I will bleed the system again and if that doesn't fix it get a new thermostat, new alloy radiator etc.

Priorities for this weekend are new tires too cos they are only getting worse.

Edited by kingtube69
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How is your engine bay so clean?! Share your secrets please :P

Everything you've done to this car is what I want to eventually do to mine. So please keep up the updates I'm following intently!

Milkmun they look like Just Jap visors, the OEM ones go right down to the bottom of the pillar.

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Just read all 6 pages, so far so good man. Awesome thread!

Keen to see more updates and progress with the car :D

I've just got my car driveable after a long 6 months and lost a little interest, but seeing this (and driving it yesterday) is getting me keeeen again ;)

Keep it up man! :thumbsup:

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Car is looking the goods, great read so far.

Just a quick one, are those OEM window visors? Or eBay stick ons ?

Thank you Milk!

They are Just Jap ones, I need to buy new ones too because I leaned into the car with my work bag on my back and cracked one like an idiot lol.

How is your engine bay so clean?! Share your secrets please :P

Everything you've done to this car is what I want to eventually do to mine. So please keep up the updates I'm following intently!

Milkmun they look like Just Jap visors, the OEM ones go right down to the bottom of the pillar.

Thanks Pete! I like to clean the engine bay whenever I get a chance and if I find a wire that annoys me, I fix it lol.

I'm glad you have a guide to look at if you need. If you have any questions feel free to inbox me and I can help.

looks like it has a nice stance, whats the ride height on front and rear arches? wouldn't mind comparing :ph34r2:

I'll have to pop outside a bit later and check for you but I personally think its too low because the exhaust scrapes on everything making it impossible to get into my garage lol.

Just read all 6 pages, so far so good man. Awesome thread!

Keen to see more updates and progress with the car :D

I've just got my car driveable after a long 6 months and lost a little interest, but seeing this (and driving it yesterday) is getting me keeeen again ;)

Keep it up man! :thumbsup:

Thank you Mc-Woshy!

Why 6 months no driving? Did you lose your license or break something lol??

-------------------------------

Small update since I have been MIA - Had to get new rear tires finally the old ones were way dead. I have been putting a lot of kms on this since I got my license back, It feels like just yesterday I serviced it and now it's due again. I'm going to book two weeks off in April for me to get the car back in the workshop if money permits and get a touchup tune because its running fairly rich and it idles black smoke when the car gets to 95 degrees which happens when we have 40 degree heat in Sydney!

Rego is due in a week or two so I need to go into savings mode but after that I'll be ordering:

Front and rear camber arms to fix the alignment

Front Tie Rod Ends with RCA if money permits

Rear HICAS lockout - Ideally I would like to buy some second hand hubs, have the bearings replaced and bushings pressed but I'm undecided for now

Most importantly, new coilovers

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Thank you Milk!

They are Just Jap ones, I need to buy new ones too because I leaned into the car with my work bag on my back and cracked one like an idiot lol.

Thanks Pete! I like to clean the engine bay whenever I get a chance and if I find a wire that annoys me, I fix it lol.

I'm glad you have a guide to look at if you need. If you have any questions feel free to inbox me and I can help.

I'll have to pop outside a bit later and check for you but I personally think its too low because the exhaust scrapes on everything making it impossible to get into my garage lol.

Thank you Mc-Woshy!

Why 6 months no driving? Did you lose your license or break something lol??

-------------------------------

Small update since I have been MIA - Had to get new rear tires finally the old ones were way dead. I have been putting a lot of kms on this since I got my license back, It feels like just yesterday I serviced it and now it's due again. I'm going to book two weeks off in April for me to get the car back in the workshop if money permits and get a touchup tune because its running fairly rich and it idles black smoke when the car gets to 95 degrees which happens when we have 40 degree heat in Sydney!

Rego is due in a week or two so I need to go into savings mode but after that I'll be ordering:

Front and rear camber arms to fix the alignment

Front Tie Rod Ends with RCA if money permits

Rear HICAS lockout - Ideally I would like to buy some second hand hubs, have the bearings replaced and bushings pressed but I'm undecided for now

Most importantly, new coilovers

Engine had low compression, Cyl 6 was @ 90 :/ Luckily was only valve springs as the number stayed the same on both wet and dry test. Took me 3 months to buy the parts as I was only buying genuine and new stuff which was expensive etc, then after doing the head swap I had lifter issues which made it annoying to drive. Then after that I put some lifter free in it and it fixed the lifter noise but my Water Pump snapped that same day, then it sat for another month and now it's finally fixed hahahaha!

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Engine had low compression, Cyl 6 was @ 90 :/ Luckily was only valve springs as the number stayed the same on both wet and dry test. Took me 3 months to buy the parts as I was only buying genuine and new stuff which was expensive etc, then after doing the head swap I had lifter issues which made it annoying to drive. Then after that I put some lifter free in it and it fixed the lifter noise but my Water Pump snapped that same day, then it sat for another month and now it's finally fixed hahahaha!

Wow and this is why I'm petrified of compression testing my motor. But like you said lucky it was only one of the springs. That lifter free stuff does the trick hey????

As for why no driving for 6 months, you are correct. Something I'm not proud of either but you live and learn. Was in the national park going a fraction too fast at the start of Op saturation early last year.

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The Sydney heat has been pretty stupid lately and the car has been getting warmer than I like (not overheating but warmer than usual) so I ordered a new thermostat, cap and alloy radiator tonight.

Everything should be here in the next few days

Heading back to WSID tomorrow night to see what I can get also.

Stay tuned for times and pics

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