Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Would reckon the other grey one at $49k would be worth looking at.

we are talking a week to get back to me for a simple question - he called me quite a few times telling me how he wants to sell it asap so i thought he was eager to sell it but when i took it serious he went lockdown practically but just gave me more time to look at others - in terms of the grey one kms arent right - apparently he haas been in canberra for the past 2.5 weeks so unable to inspect - tried to call again but no answer

have someone saying that his car is one of the only ones in the market with a single turbo conversion so its quite rare hence making it valuable - are single turbo conversions really that expensive - looked through forums and asked some boys from the workshop - all mixed opinions on it ?

have someone saying that his car is one of the only ones in the market with a single turbo conversion so its quite rare hence making it valuable - are single turbo conversions really that expensive - looked through forums and asked some boys from the workshop - all mixed opinions on it ?

Sounds like a fkwit. It doesn't make it rare. Its not that uncommon and not that covetable. Like any other modification it can add value to the car or not. For me its a case of not.

  • Like 1

Sounds like a fkwit. It doesn't make it rare. Its not that uncommon and not that covetable. Like any other modification it can add value to the car or not. For me its a case of not.

makes sense i think his point in arguement was to say that its the only single turbo gtr on the market for sale now hence rarity.

lol you can take a shit on your bonnet and say your GTR is the only one that comes with an aftermarket feces bonnet - does not make it a sought after rarity.

  • Like 1

you def about getting a r34 gtr?

50k I would be looking at something like this:

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Audi-S5-2008/SSE-AD-3109095/?Cr=8&sdmvc=1

im set on just the r34 gtr - waiting for the right one at the right price i guess

so ye for now just r34 gtr :)

you def about getting a r34 gtr?

50k I would be looking at something like this:

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Audi-S5-2008/SSE-AD-3109095/?Cr=8&sdmvc=1

dumb post is dumb.

news from original post gtr - he says that its never been hit as any owner would say i guess - he imported it from QLD from skylodge pty ltd autoshop located at 1065ipswich rd moorooka - i will do some research on them but now has anyone heard of them lol ? cheers guys

LOL with evos... Enjoy the constant gearboxes and transfer cases over 300kw

LOL in reality, there's more GTRs sitting at workshops and more running EVOs on the road. GTRs have their own issues like the well known oil control issue. Most importantly, EVOs are actually much faster than GTRs on the track

LOL in reality, there's more GTRs sitting at workshops and more running EVOs on the road. GTRs have their own issues like the well known oil control issue. Most importantly, EVOs are actually much faster than GTRs on the track

Thanks mate.... I have owned 2 very modified evos....

LOL in reality, there's more GTRs sitting at workshops and more running EVOs on the road. GTRs have their own issues like the well known oil control issue. Most importantly, EVOs are actually much faster than GTRs on the track

You know this is Skylines Australia?

Want to bang on how good EVOs are go to their forums.

You are bringing nothing to this thread. OP said he wanted an R34. Why question it? Do we question that you bought a Shitsubishi?

news from original post gtr - he says that its never been hit as any owner would say i guess - he imported it from QLD from skylodge pty ltd autoshop located at 1065ipswich rd moorooka - i will do some research on them but now has anyone heard of them lol ? cheers guys

Never heard of them :/

  • Like 2

Speak to Iron Chef about importing your own, get a feel for a price from him. Sure it will take longer but you will get a much better car from it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
×
×
  • Create New...