Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Personally i would never go to pedders or any of those shops, i dont trust em, id only let the tuner touch my beast and 2 other businesses that have proved to be honest.  I got some MCA blues in mine, have a good reputation :happy:

Contrary to Angry's experience mine was great with pedders. I went to the ridgehaven store and they looked after me great.

I had Pedders lowered springs in my old 33 and very happy with them. a little lower than factory so looks good but still high enough to be legal and allow clearance for speedbumps.

Have used pedders and KYB shocks, happy with both.

Both my 33's have been daily drivers and only basic mods and no track time. (apart from the odd day at the drags)

I was pretty happy with what they did. I knew something was wrong so I took it to someone who could check and they gave me a sheet with all the actual values of results from testing and explained what meant what and what needed to be fixed. I didn't get them to do any work but fault diagnostics are fine. Using their info to find parts by myself now.

I bought a set of R33 suspension from a guy in NSW and installed them today. Wasn't as hard as I expected it to be. Its just a set of Pedders R33 shocks and lowered springs.

Before20160920_144648_zpsp7s22mpa.jpg

During

IMG_0774_zpstp71xsf8.jpg

After

20160920_211800_zpstkhurmyl.jpg

Good job man, looks great.

Was it stock springs already in there, looks a bit low to start with? could be just the pic i guess.

Have you noticed a big difference in the feel after the change? a lot stiffer, still ok on crappy adelaide roads?

On 9/24/2016 at 8:13 AM, Sklyn said:

Good job man, looks great.

Was it stock springs already in there, looks a bit low to start with? could be just the pic i guess.

Have you noticed a big difference in the feel after the change? a lot stiffer, still ok on crappy adelaide roads?

Cheers dude,

Yeah it was supposed to be stock springs but the was defs not stock height so dunno what was happening there.

In terms of comfort, im pretty happy. Its still bumpy but the bumps aren't as harsh which makes it nicer on a whole.

Im not debating whats next,
Sway bars, HICAS delete
Rest of exhaust (Currently catback)
Headunit, amp, speakers etc.

 

Nice work on the car thus far.

unless you are drifting the car or have a problem with it, i wouldn't bother with the HICAS delete, also the swaybars would be a down the track thing unless its a track car, id start with the stereo as at the end of the day, that's where you spend your time, followed by a new dump.

  • Like 1

My thoughts are in line with Coullsy.

Unless Hicas is failing i dont see a reason to remove it on a daily.

Though i have heard swaybars do make a noticeable difference, so it might help with the hills runs =)

 

Hey,

Cheers guys.

Yeah HICAS has not been playing up as such but the results of the suspension report show a tiny bit of play in front sway bars and rear HICAS, nothing noticeable while driving, or ive just gotten used to it.

Car audio is defs something I want to do, but I'm torn between a single din with gauges or a double din (want to give those cheap chinese android units a go). Gotta think about it.

Im working on another DIY project for the car atm, waiting for some parts to be shipped. Keen as to share with everyone "IF" it works....

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Its that time of the year again where everything's due for renewals...registration, roadside assist and the dreaded insurance renewal....:down:


Waiting on a few cheap parts to arrive for me to install. I say cheap...I mean cheaper looking at the big picture of things. Some of which I'm sure people will think are super pointless, calling it now :D

So over the weekend, I worked on getting both the mirrors to fold in automagically. Got it finally working, both mirrors are working!

The issue in my case was the worm gear mounted onto the motor shaft for left hand mirror had broken and therefore the shaft was turning without turning the gear itself. I ended up pulling the whole gear system apart, down to the final spring and roller ball bearings underneath the spring and re-lubricating everything, using Araldite to stick the gear onto the shaft and upon re-installation, all is working!

Over this weekend I did a couple of things.

Firstly, I installed a R34 side mount intercooler. It was a relatively easy install once you get the pipes off the cooler itself. Tiny bit of cutting of a tab on the bar which is not used for anything.

20161016_120903_zpscvutt1ow.jpg

Secondly, I properly installed the brackets and bolted the stock lip onto the car instead of the tape which was holding it up before. There are now 4 wing nuts holding the lip along with screws on the bottom and double sided tape on other parts.

20161015_200244_zpslz0cp2ax.jpg

20161016_131152_zpsojao5rff.jpg

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

I am currently working on some custom LED tail lights, just waiting for parts so keen on them to see what its like all finished.

Also, not a skyline but another car video we made. Have a look if you are interested. Feedback always welcome.

 

 

 

  • 4 weeks later...

Having a weird problem with the car which seems like its misfiring under max boost (13PSI). I have new coilpacks and new plugs and it is still doing it. Need to figure out what the issue is.

51 minutes ago, vxsr33 said:


How is your car hitting 13psi? I thought you had a 10psi r32 actuator?

Well I'm using the stock gauge which says its somewhere around the 650 mmHg mark so thats like 12.5-13PSI.

 

7 minutes ago, admS15 said:

What coilpacks and what plug gap?

Genuine Nissan OEM coilpacks were installed 1 year ago, brand new NGK copper plugs installed and gapped to 0.8mm.

Could it just be R&R?  You're still on factory ECU right? I know there's mixed results with max PSI acheivable on these things, but it's usually 14PSI range, with the intercooler upgrade, you could be flowing more air at the same PSI as before and maxing out the AFM (at a guess)

R32 actuator should not be getting you more than about 11 psi on its own. If you cant/dont have/want to install an aftermarket gauge you could plug into the OBD port and check on your phone. I have one if you want to catch up and give it a whirl. (Assuming its an OBD2 port which i think they are)

Was it doing it before the new plugs went in? Loose plug/connection maybe.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...