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Boosting Unopened Rb26

booba32

By booba32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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booba32 Contributor

booba32

Posted
Posted

OK so i have a 94 R32 GTR mostly standard with slight mods and i am looking to get some more power because frankly im bored with 240kw at the rears. Ive been reading that spinning the big end bearing is common when boosting a stock bottom end so is there anything i can do to help that from not happening or is it a (turn it up and hope for the best) type of thing, here is a list of what my car will have, if anyone could give me some tips on how to go about this like adding a nitto head drain kit or bigger oil pump or something alone those lines would be appreciated cheers.

MODS I HAVE:

Garrett -9s
R34 dump pipes
Trust cam gears
Trust front pipes
Fujitsubo catback
Apexi power intake

MODS IM ADDING:

Haltech platinum pro
BPP fuel rail
Bosch ev14 1000cc injectors
Turbosmart fuel reg
Walbro 460lph intake (e85 & 98)

Dont know what sort of power i would get, the car is street driven, im going e85 compatiable just incase i decide to go it in the future

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booba32 Contributor

booba32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If you read through my topic, i say ive been reading about spinning big end bearings, theres alot of different thing i could do, but i want to know whats the best thing with the mods i have and how much power i would be pushing, i mean if you cant give any help on why waste your time and comment?? :unsure:

Blackkers Experienced

Blackkers

Posted
Posted (edited)

well it's because all that information is searchable.

it's a 'turn it up and hope for the best' situation. But you can max out -9's on a standard motor and not have to worry too much about reliability.

Don't worry about oiling mods too much if it's 100% street. A catch can would keep some oil from entering the intake.

Also keep the standard fuel rail - no point changing that

edit: I know you didn't mention it but keep the cams standard

Edited by Blackkers
  • Like 1
djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

I never had a problem with winding up a standard internal motor. Then I got it rebuilt as a prelude to more horsepowers. Anyway after three builds its almost as good as a stocker. From my experience I had 450rwhp on stock internals and it was fine. Just make sure it is in decent condition before you start.

tl:dr. Use it.

If you want advice on oil the best is:
Use a Nissan pump. If you are taking the sump off put a baffle kit in it.

The fat Nissan rings help stop blowby which is the cause of oil hanging up in the head.

None of the 48 dozen "fixes" really help if your blowby isn't under control.

Of the 48 dozen fixes the most effective is to vent the blowby out of the sump in such a way as to not have to go through the head.

If you are doing head drain mods its engine out anyway. Once its out you may as well..........

tl:dr. Bandaid fixes are only bandaids. How many bandaids to you want to put on before you fix it properly?

  • Like 1
booba32 Contributor

booba32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I never had a problem with winding up a standard internal motor. Then I got it rebuilt as a prelude to more horsepowers. Anyway after three builds its almost as good as a stocker. From my experience I had 450rwhp on stock internals and it was fine. Just make sure it is in decent condition before you start.

tl:dr. Use it.

If you want advice on oil the best is:

Use a Nissan pump. If you are taking the sump off put a baffle kit in it.

The fat Nissan rings help stop blowby which is the cause of oil hanging up in the head.

None of the 48 dozen "fixes" really help if your blowby isn't under control.

Of the 48 dozen fixes the most effective is to vent the blowby out of the sump in such a way as to not have to go through the head.

If you are doing head drain mods its engine out anyway. Once its out you may as well..........

tl:dr. Bandaid fixes are only bandaids. How many bandaids to you want to put on before you fix it properly?

Blowby is at a minimal if any, yeah your right, i dont want to pull the engine out and not give it a freshen up or just go all out and build it, i think

i should just compression test it, see where shes at.

So its not really worth doing head drain mods with the power i will be making? but if i take the engine out then might aswell

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

Blowby is at a minimal if any, yeah your right, i dont want to pull the engine out and not give it a freshen up or just go all out and build it, i think

i should just compression test it, see where shes at.

So its not really worth doing head drain mods with the power i will be making? but if i take the engine out then might aswell

If you are running 300rwhp just leave it alone.If you want a bit more then do the few upgrades. Wouldnt bother with E85 for that level. Maybe a Nismo style catch can although they want drug money for them. But yes get a comp/leakdown test.

tl:dr. Check it, use it, dont fk with it.

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

OK so i have a 94 R32 GTR mostly standard with slight mods and i am looking to get some more power because frankly im bored with 240kw at the rears. Ive been reading that spinning the big end bearing is common when boosting a stock bottom end so is there anything i can do to help that from not happening or is it a (turn it up and hope for the best) type of thing, here is a list of what my car will have, if anyone could give me some tips on how to go about this like adding a nitto head drain kit or bigger oil pump or something alone those lines would be appreciated cheers.

MODS I HAVE:

Garrett -9s - Good

R34 dump pipes - Good

Trust cam gears - Good

Trust front pipes - Good

Fujitsubo catback - Good

Apexi power intake - Good

- Unopened RB26 that is 21 years old, I would not go over 300 kW's at the rears.

- There for, 300 kW's at the rears means:

MODS IM ADDING:

Haltech platinum pro - Good or whatever ECU you are using.

BPP fuel rail - No need for 300 rwkW's

Bosch ev14 1000cc injectors - No need 300 rwkW's

Turbosmart fuel reg - No need 300 rwkW's

Walbro 460lph intake (e85 & 98) - No need 300 rwkW's or good if you want to go e85 later.

Dont know what sort of power i would get, the car is street driven, im going e85 compatiable just incase i decide to go it in the future.

- Personally I would not bother with e85 for a street car unless it's a dedicated track car.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Personally I would be running e85, unless you want to rebuild the engine soon.

Why waste the coin doing everything twice, even the petrol tune is a waste really, as once you run ethanol you won't go back.

The stock fuel rail and lines are fine, and the GTR pumps are pretty good other than being old. If it were me though, I would be dropping a 460L Walbro in with the new Xspurt 1650cc eth/meth injectors, cutting out the dropping resistors and tune it as is.

booba32 Contributor

booba32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Launching it is the best part :) .

:yes:

Personally I would be running e85, unless you want to rebuild the engine soon.

Why waste the coin doing everything twice, even the petrol tune is a waste really, as once you run ethanol you won't go back.

The stock fuel rail and lines are fine, and the GTR pumps are pretty good other than being old. If it were me though, I would be dropping a 460L Walbro in with the new Xspurt 1650cc eth/meth injectors, cutting out the dropping resistors and tune it as is.

Yeah thats the thing i dont want to do everything twice, thats why im goings the mods ive chosen, because in the future i will most likely pull it down and build an engine, or i can even just pull it down now and build it now i just havent made up my mind (why fix something thats not broken), havent heard of those injectors, might have a look into them.

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