Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

 The way I looked it. with the deck cracking being so common I didn’t want to chance it happening again and to be honest by the time you buy a block, test it, do the billet main caps, machine it, buy the head and main studs and etc you really aren’t getting much change from buying a billet block  and if it happened again then I’d really be behind 

  • Like 1
Just now, BK said:

Jesus Christ Brett... Sequentials, Nitto strokers and now a Billet block ! You win Powerball or something ? 😉

I wish we (me and the mrs) just look at it as we will take the financial hit now to save it costing more in the future. 

  • Haha 1
13 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

I wish we (me and the mrs) just look at it as we will take the financial hit now to save it costing more in the future. 

I can't talk either. At least that's good if your Mrs is helping - mine tells me to fk off and spend your own money !

We're ending up in very similar places with the TH1 32s with the Elite 2500, 6466, Nitto 2.8 stroker but I've went H dog and you sequential.

To be totally honest if I cracked another block I'd probably do exactly the same with the Billet block myself, so I'm interested on how it works out.

  • Like 2
4 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

nice steal cap thongs Brett lol..

and congrats on the new baby (block) :D

We have a very good oh&s policy in our garage, if you hurt yourself I’ll push you in front of a bus and they can deal with it 

  • Haha 2
1 hour ago, r32-25t said:

Also pulled the dash out to remove the heater core and ac core out DE9B0EEE-BB2D-43C9-87C7-FFD7870CDC52.thumb.jpeg.349837306c75c99caec7090d7720825d.jpeg

With what you have removed from the dash, can you get to the firewall mat? I have removed the vinyl dash, centre console etc. but it looks like you have removed a lot more.

I want to replace the firewall mat but a bit unsure about how big a job it is and whether I need to outsource it.

Cheers

30 minutes ago, Robzilla32 said:

With what you have removed from the dash, can you get to the firewall mat? I have removed the vinyl dash, centre console etc. but it looks like you have removed a lot more.

I want to replace the firewall mat but a bit unsure about how big a job it is and whether I need to outsource it.

Cheers

I just had another look and you would need to strip it even further then I have, the steering column, all the wiring, the metal bar and even the carpet needs to be pealed back as well. Basically you need to remove everything cause of the way it wraps around it all. 

On 30/03/2021 at 10:48 AM, BK said:

I can't talk either. At least that's good if your Mrs is helping - mine tells me to fk off and spend your own money !

We're ending up in very similar places with the TH1 32s with the Elite 2500, 6466, Nitto 2.8 stroker but I've went H dog and you sequential.

To be totally honest if I cracked another block I'd probably do exactly the same with the Billet block myself, so I'm interested on how it works out.

I thought I replied to this before and just realized that wasn’t the case

With us all our money goes into one account and I wouldn’t spend that kind of money without talking to her about it first 

should be good to see what kind of difference the sequential makes, My goal is to run a 9 on drag radials (even a 9.99 would make me happy) 

I’m looking forward to it all coming together and from what I’ve been told it’s not the major inconvenience everyone originally made it out to be.

One thing I did find out after paying for it is you have to use an external oil pump which wasn’t expected 

  • Like 1

Same - want a 9 at over 140mph with the H pattern at 2021 Red centre nats so they can kick me out for not having a 'chute. Ideally I'd like it to be done without drag radials but they do make a big difference, as I was doing 10.5 - 10.7 passes between only 127 - 129 mph with the Trust 6 speed and ET streets before the 6466 went on.

So what are you doing with the oil pump setup ? Mechanical crank driven pump ? Wet or Dry sump ?

1 hour ago, r32-25t said:

I thought I replied to this before and just realized that wasn’t the case

With us all our money goes into one account and I wouldn’t spend that kind of money without talking to her about it first 

should be good to see what kind of difference the sequential makes, My goal is to run a 9 on drag radials (even a 9.99 would make me happy) 

I’m looking forward to it all coming together and from what I’ve been told it’s not the major inconvenience everyone originally made it out to be.

One thing I did find out after paying for it is you have to use an external oil pump which wasn’t expected 

so that's another 20k on the tab for dry sump? :P 

Billet not so cheap after all, but even cast needs dry sump!!!

7 hours ago, BK said:

Same - want a 9 at over 140mph with the H pattern at 2021 Red centre nats so they can kick me out for not having a 'chute. Ideally I'd like it to be done without drag radials but they do make a big difference, as I was doing 10.5 - 10.7 passes between only 127 - 129 mph with the Trust 6 speed and ET streets before the 6466 went on.

So what are you doing with the oil pump setup ? Mechanical crank driven pump ? Wet or Dry sump ?

Gtr fest is my goal cause it’ll be a fully prepared track 

It’s going to have to be one of those 2 I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it, it’s a decision I can leave until just before the engine goes back in 

  • Like 1
6 hours ago, BakemonoRicer said:

so that's another 20k on the tab for dry sump? :P 

Billet not so cheap after all, but even cast needs dry sump!!!

If you’re paying 20k for a dry sump set up your getting your ass raped 

  • Haha 1
12 hours ago, r32-25t said:

I just had another look and you would need to strip it even further then I have, the steering column, all the wiring, the metal bar and even the carpet needs to be pealed back as well. Basically you need to remove everything cause of the way it wraps around it all. 

Thanks for taking a look, I appreciate it. Sounds like I might have my work cut out for me.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Car still hasn't moved, I’ve been told 2 weeks (feels like I’ve said that before)

been buying a few odds and ends 2565B423-BC3E-4FCA-AE4E-080CF943CD72.thumb.jpeg.472d4c66a749cc298586bccc325f6ce5.jpegsome titanium exhaust studs, a new rubber seal for the cam angle sensor and a new coil cover emblem 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...