Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

not sure it a secret

Nah

Mine is a 26/30

He did tell me about that one though

Dropped in on him today to give him a push, fkin busier than ever. If you say tall guy from the east with the blonde gf he'll know who you're talking about...

I don't care about the top end just yet and the car came with GT-SS...a top end that dies off at 400awkw is still a fast car. Is it fast enough so we can fly away? I don't know.

Everyone goes for 11ty unusable gearbox breaking kw in their GTR...rather do something cheaper, different and friendlier for the street. Acceleration in any gear at any rpm, that's the plan.

Tbh my car fell apart with a GTX3076R which maxes out at 400rwkw (on manual) because it was too responsive. Having to set a rev limit at 5900 rpm is kind of lol.

Would suspect same issue with GTSS-s and a RB30, but maybe not. You gotta give it a go, and the turbos are already with the car so f**kit why not?

I had other issues relating to dat dere 14s pass :P

It's just a preference i hold for runing through revs.

For example, I preferred my car to Al's. Both 330rwkw but his was on it by 2k and over by 6k whereas mine was 3k to 7.5k

Both massive fun... very different animals though

Tbh my car fell apart with a GTX3076R which maxes out at 400rwkw (on manual) because it was too responsive. Having to set a rev limit at 5900 rpm is kind of lol.

Would suspect same issue with GTSS-s and a RB30, but maybe not. You gotta give it a go, and the turbos are already with the car so f**kit why not?

I had other issues relating to dat dere 14s pass :P

And yours is only a 2.8L as well!

I thought it reached max power well before 5.9k rpm?

It's just a preference i hold for runing through revs.

For example, I preferred my car to Al's. Both 330hub kw but his was on it by 2k and over by 6k whereas mine was 3k to 7.5k

Both massive fun... very different animals though

fyp

Edited by UNR33L

Swapping down the track isn't too difficult...GT-SS hold their value well and usually worth a little more than -5, so I'm looking at the cost of a turbo swap and a retune for bigger turbos if I want more power. I love my responsive GTS-T though and would want a similar set up in the R.

Only need to put low boost through a 30 to get big numbers, plus it'll be E85 after the 98 tune.

You really think youll hit 400awkw? Thats more than just a decent motor to get that far

Barry believes it, with E85. RB26s with 98 make about 340-350 with GT-SS.

Swapping down the track isn't too difficult...GT-SS hold their value well and usually worth a little more than -5, so I'm looking at the cost of a turbo swap and a retune for bigger turbos if I want more power. I love my responsive GTS-T though and would want a similar set up in the R.

Only need to put low boost through a 30 to get big numbers, plus it'll be E85 after the 98 tune.

have you driven a 3.0 RB?

the difference the displacement makes is a lot more than you would expect.

it should be a fair whack more responsive than your gtst

Al's car is like a freaking V8

Barry believes it, with E85. RB26s with 98 make about 340-350 with GT-SS.

Interesting

Steve 34R aka R8TED only made 317kw on the racepace dyno on e85 and -9's. Not sure what the norm is, maybe Matt Borci will throw in his 2 cents

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...