Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 26/09/2023 at 6:05 PM, PranK said:

Dang, that's shit. 7-8 years is good, but still shit. :(

I'm super keen to see where this goes tho, theres some good banter in here already and I'm in for the ride.

Could always swap it out for a BMW N54. Duncan love these. 

I could just buy a BMW M2 comp instead and be done with. I know @Dose Pipe Sutututu will approve.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
7 minutes ago, admS15 said:

I could just buy a BMW M2 comp instead and be done with. I know @Dose Pipe Sutututu will approve.

100%

I regret building mine, I always seem to make wrong financial & illogical decisions in my life.

2 hours ago, PranK said:

....Could always swap it out for a BMW N54. Duncan love these. 

Actually, good idea.

To paraphrase the 200B joke, the N54 has 1 less design flaw than the N55

  • Haha 2

And the head, looks like 2 intake valves got bent and a bit of a dent on the edge of the chamber. Should be repairable if I can get my hands on a couple of valves.

 

IMG_20230927_171805898.thumb.jpg.242707d21da8c634beb6a03178053fb8.jpg

 

IMG_20230927_172123478.thumb.jpg.c7de5fe27eef582c0723a52073680c15.jpg

 

IMG_20230927_172318315_HDR.thumb.jpg.b8df776935ebd4f73b5fcc9b4faad942.jpg

 

IMG_20230927_172425510_HDR.thumb.jpg.e1bbcc11fdbf41527dacb1961a51715a.jpg

IMG_20230927_171906215_HDR.thumb.jpg.971018f959e0a189649c599857a5ff45.jpg

IMG_20230927_171857139.thumb.jpg.44e662802d7f25c03ee5e2b06fd61c04.jpg

Dent at edge of chamber 

IMG_20230927_173758688_HDR.thumb.jpg.8c9c5a2c6e738ee41ec6cbcd59ad88af.jpg

IMG_20230927_173738586.thumb.jpg.95f9727968c8ca4db85a70b53096bc06.jpg

 

Rest of the engine components looked good. Definitely less cross hatching in the cylinders than last time it was open. Surprisingly, from what I could see of the crank through the vacant no. 5 the journal didn't look that bad, there's more damage on the counterweight. The crank will be scrap but I expected to see more significant damage.

On the hunt for 2 intake valves so I can get the head repaired, if anyone knows anyone with a couple to spare, please let me know.

IMG_20230927_173750369.jpg

I wonder if the turbo letting go the first time was a warning sign the motor was going to let go.

As in bits of motor came out and knocked the turbine.

Hopefully @GTSBoy's RB hoarder mate has things for you!

If not, I know of a guy with a built RB25DET NEO that's keen to sell his motor, also comes with a complete running R33 with A/C, subwoofer, new window tint, added sound deadening, etc. Lol.

  • Haha 2
On 27/09/2023 at 11:09 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I wonder if the turbo letting go the first time was a warning sign the motor was going to let go.

As in bits of motor came out and knocked the turbine.

Hopefully @GTSBoy's RB hoarder mate has things for you!

If not, I know of a guy with a built RB25DET NEO that's keen to sell his motor, also comes with a complete running R33 with A/C, subwoofer, new window tint, added sound deadening, etc. Lol.

Possibly but don't think it's related as it looks like the rod definitely let go before any bit of piston did, turbo survived this time. How about a straight swap? I know what I've got..

On 27/09/2023 at 11:45 PM, Kinkstaah said:

image.thumb.png.c1e54680480bbee5b4ab3444217aaf06.png

Why would he buy that specific RB25DET NEO when he can buy the solution to constantly exploding RB25DET Neos... with similar extras?
😛

Unfortunately LS doesn't align with the K.I.S.S method

On 28/09/2023 at 7:30 AM, No Crust Racing said:

Sorry to see that mate, hope the repair goes well, are you  DIYing it? 


 

Thanks Dan. Engine building an RB is not something I think I can do to the level required. So the only DIY will be limited to installing an engine or properly repaired head on a good block. 

On 28/09/2023 at 9:02 AM, Duncan said:

Yeah that's not going to buff out. How is they bore where the rod failed, any grooves you can catch with a fingernail?

Surprisingly other than the viewing window, the bore looks great. There is one gouge that you can feel. Im pretty sure I created that when trying to get the piston out with a crow bar😂

23 minutes ago, Duncan said:

JB Weld and go again

21 minutes ago, admS15 said:

You know any suppliers that sell it by the bucket? 

A rather extreme form of block grouting?

21 minutes ago, admS15 said:

You know any suppliers that sell it by the bucket? 

And ironically - yes. We have an epoxy supplier that I buy buckets of different sorts of epoxies from, for various purposes. You kinda have to open a vein though.

Edited by GTSBoy
  • Haha 1

Get it machined and I imagine you could do the work to rebuild it yourself if you wanted to, but I'm saying that after having invested a lot of hours and a few bucks in in learning and having just started a fresh build that didn't blow up (just pisses out oil from new front and rear mains lololol). 

Send it to NCR and I'll build it for you cheap as but you get zero warranty lol
 

Edited by No Crust Racing
  • Like 1
On 28/09/2023 at 9:40 AM, GTSBoy said:

A rather extreme form of block grouting?

And ironically - yes. We have an epoxy supplier that I buy buckets of different sorts of epoxies from, for various purposes. You kinda have to open a vein though.

May have to open an account 

On 28/09/2023 at 9:58 AM, r32-25t said:

I’m amazed at how well that head has come out of it. Worst case is open the chamber up and build a off tap rb30 for it 

Me too, rb25/30 would be nice but then would have to upgrade everything are it. Turbo, injectors etc. are all too small.

On 28/09/2023 at 10:25 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I still would buy that RB25DE NEO for cheap(?) and keep it spare OR use it :) 

 

I am seriously considering this route, trying to arrange to go have a look at this particular motor.

On 28/09/2023 at 10:55 AM, No Crust Racing said:

Get it machined and I imagine you could do the work to rebuild it yourself if you wanted to, but I'm saying that after having invested a lot of hours and a few bucks in in learning and having just started a fresh build that didn't blow up (just pisses out oil from new front and rear mains lololol). 

Send it to NCR and I'll build it for you cheap as but you get zero warranty lol
 

The problem with this scenario is that the bulk of the $ is in the machining and parts. Wouldn't be saving all that much by assembling it but the chance of me messing it up would be too great. 

I'll send you the windowed block to practice on, 😂

Options so far in the pipeline

Cheap rb25de neo

Disassembled RB25DET NEO minus head, good condition. Reasonable $ but apparently pending. He's going to let me know if the buyer doesn't turn up. Idea here was to rebuild with correct forged pistons and put my head on it. Would be a good fresh motor. It's unlikely though.

Good running RB25DET. Prices unreasonable so far.

4 hours ago, admS15 said:

Unfortunately LS doesn't align with the K.I.S.S method

The joke was Dose was attempting to sell his complete car, and I joined in too.

My gut feeling is to tell you to actually go RB30 if you get the head cleaned up. Never turn down an upgrade opportunity when something breaks... it makes it more bearable 😛

  • Haha 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...