Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Same here, Supercharge but Gold series across all our cars for availability, warranty, cost, configuration variations and performance life. If I can't get these then only Century.

Would love to run the Supercharge AGMs in the Nissans but they don't have the pencil posts and varied post positions available like the Gold series.

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Looking real nice!

I've moved away from Optima, they aren't of the same quality as they used to be!

I now run a SuperCharge battery (made for Stop/start applications and is an AGM battery - similar to an Optima), not to mention it's an Aussie brand with 3 year warranty.

https://www.supercharge.com.au/car-battery/supercharge-start-stop-car/?post_type=battery_type&p=173

All the in-laws' cars run their SuperCharge Gold range batteries, cheap and phenomenal warranty.

Cheers Johnny, shall look into it...

39 minutes ago, BK said:

Same here, Supercharge but Gold series across all our cars for availability, warranty, cost, configuration variations and performance life. If I can't get these then only Century.

Would love to run the Supercharge AGMs in the Nissans but they don't have the pencil posts and varied post positions available like the Gold series.

Cheers Benny

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I bet you're excited!

Also I would recommend using some form of heat shielding OR wrap your dump/downpipe to prevent your O2 harness melting at the track.

when u say o2 are you referring to the wideband? same same...?!?

as that's just cable tied in that position now til we workout where it will enter the car...

excuse my dumbness, these are the sides of cars that I fail at...

Edited by mr_rbman

For the Wideband O2 sensor I just go through the existing egt floor bung and a Haltech O2 sensor wiring extension harness. Don't want to drill more holes in car than necessary.

  • Like 1
Just now, BK said:

For the Wideband O2 sensor I just go through the existing egt floor bung and a Haltech O2 sensor wiring extension harness. Don't want to drill more holes in car than necessary.

ye that was my initial thinking...

just so I wrap my head around this, both a narrow band and wide band sensor are essentially both just o2 sensors correct!?!

 

1 minute ago, mr_rbman said:

ye that was my initial thinking...

just so I wrap my head around this, both a narrow band and wide band sensor are essentially both just o2 sensors correct!?!

 

Yes

  • Thanks 1
33 minutes ago, BK said:

Wideband gives you an actual afr / lambda ratio, narrowband just signals whether it's richer or leaner than Lambda 1 / AFR 14.7:1.

Clear as now, cheers Ben

54 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Just delete the OEM narrowband junk, since you now have a modern ECU.

 

tis already gone, just the one wideband roughly 1000mm from turbo..

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...