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The ever evolving R32 GTR build


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2 hours ago, r32-25t said:

Ard is $500 plus post, direct bolt in 150amp 

OK cool.

So exactly the same as the LS upgrade through CWC, a quick search shows a few people using both without too many dramas?!?

 

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57 minutes ago, mr_rbman said:

OK cool.

So exactly the same as the LS upgrade through CWC, a quick search shows a few people using both without too many dramas?!?

 

I got the CWC kit with GM alternator and the car starts and runs so much better than before... I replaced it a while back and so far so good! Fitment was perfect and he was really easy to deal with! Was about $500 for the kit from memory!

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4 hours ago, mr_rbman said:

OK cool.

So exactly the same as the LS upgrade through CWC, a quick search shows a few people using both without too many dramas?!?

 

Yeah same price, I’ve got the ard one and never had an issue, it also worked out well when I went dry sump because it requires a factory fit alternator 

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17 hours ago, r32-25t said:

Yeah same price, I’ve got the ard one and never had an issue, it also worked out well when I went dry sump because it requires a factory fit alternator 

Tried searching for this locally but it appears you can only source from the likes of RHDJapn etc?!?

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6 minutes ago, mr_rbman said:

Tried searching for this locally but it appears you can only source from the likes of RHDJapn etc?!?

That was where I got mine from, postage was pretty quick from memory 

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21 hours ago, 34GeeTeeTee said:

I got the CWC kit with GM alternator and the car starts and runs so much better than before... I replaced it a while back and so far so good! Fitment was perfect and he was really easy to deal with! Was about $500 for the kit from memory!

Cheers!

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So first test drive on good rubber resulted in me destroying a brand new RE71RS :(

The front brake duct decided to dislodge itself from the bumper, get stuck between my tyre and brakes resulting in a 4mm gouge.

The white smoke it made had me very concerned so certainly could've been a lot worse...

IMG_6088.jpg

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so i tried a log, no idea if this will upload but here goes...

second to third it appears as though voltage drop to 12.7v roughly...

also hitting a cut now, maybe low oil pressure seeing how well it hooks up with the good rubber... tried viewing the safety cut for oil pressure but can't seem to find it...

 

second to third pull - 07022023.llgx

Edited by mr_rbman
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19 hours ago, r32-25t said:

That was where I got mine from, postage was pretty quick from memory 

Same, RHDJAPAN for ARD alternator as they are essentially a rewound factory alternator so no bracket conversions  They have a slightly bigger pulley but still fits the factory 4PK875 belt.

16 hours ago, mr_rbman said:

so i tried a log, no idea if this will upload but here goes...

second to third it appears as though voltage drop to 12.7v roughly...

also hitting a cut now, maybe low oil pressure seeing how well it hooks up with the good rubber... tried viewing the safety cut for oil pressure but can't seem to find it...

 

second to third pull - 07022023.llgx 841.2 kB · 2 downloads

Have you been back to Ampl ? Sure it's not fuel ? Refresh my memory with what coilpacks you have and what fuel pump, fuel line sizes and the pump wiring size is. Has Ampl suggested what dramas the low voltage is causing and / or this mentioned cut is related ? A drop to 12.7v is not ideal but really shouldn't be causing you major dramas like a cut.

Bloody cars....

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6 hours ago, BK said:

Same, RHDJAPAN for ARD alternator as they are essentially a rewound factory alternator so no bracket conversions  They have a slightly bigger pulley but still fits the factory 4PK875 belt.

Have you been back to Ampl ? Sure it's not fuel ? Refresh my memory with what coilpacks you have and what fuel pump, fuel line sizes and the pump wiring size is. Has Ampl suggested what dramas the low voltage is causing and / or this mentioned cut is related ? A drop to 12.7v is not ideal but really shouldn't be causing you major dramas like a cut.

Bloody cars....

Cheers Ben..

The cut is from low oil pressure... Wish I could say I was surprised but was kinda expecting it running standard sump with only a Tomei baffle...

I did the pull with the oil only being at ~45 degrees so my tuner (Ampl) is saying that won't be helping things (50w oil) and suggested i try a pull and log it again once oil temp is 80 degrees +

So the log above is showing when the voltage drop happens fuel pressure drops and my duty cycle is getting up around 92-93% (1250cc Bosch Injectors), hence why he didn't want to wind more boost in until the voltage issue is sorted...

Coilpacks are 35 GTR (Hitachi)

Fuel system is very simple, Aeroflow intank pump (460LPH from memory), standard fuel lines, pump wiring had a direct 12v feed but I can't recall what gauge wring (was done 6/7 years ago...)

Edited by mr_rbman
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Cold oil will show higher pressure so not sure what he is thinking there.

 

Also not sure what you are thinking with 7000rpm and cold oil.

Oil pressure dropping is bad.. ... you need to fix that!

 

 

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Time for an extended sump, had exactly the same problem with mine once the single went on (stock sump/tomei baffle) you can add an extra liter of oil as a band aid and it’ll work most of the time and trip other times 

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2 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

Cold oil will show higher pressure so not sure what he is thinking there.

 

Also not sure what you are thinking with 7000rpm and cold oil.

Oil pressure dropping is bad.. ... you need to fix that!

 

 

I believe he's referring to the fact that with colder oil it will take longer to get back to the sump?!?

I had been idling for over 10 minutes and drove sedately for five minutes before giving it that pull... Not having an aftermarket oil temp gauge obviously failed me here cause I honestly assumed it would have been up to temp by then...

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53 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

Time for an extended sump, had exactly the same problem with mine once the single went on (stock sump/tomei baffle) you can add an extra liter of oil as a band aid and it’ll work most of the time and trip other times 

ye it is overfilled by half a litre.

I'm going to take it for a drive tomorrow once it's above 80 degrees and log it to see what happens..

If it still cuts i'll put another half a litre in and if still no good i'll have to look into extended sumps once the bank account shows some signs of life again 🙃

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so i went for a drive this arvo..

set the laptop up and waited til the oil temp was above 80 degrees and then did multiple second and third gear pulls to ~7000rpm with no cut..

I think i'm still going to add another 3-500mm of oil taking up to close on 6L and see how things go..

I do realise inevitably i'm going to need a bigger sump sooner rather than later..

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