Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

New battery sourced, thank @BK and @Dose Pipe Sutututu

On special at Autobarn too so win win...

The guy at Autobarn saw that I was replacing my Optima with this and said I was nuts going from an Optima to a Supercharge, haha

thumbnail_IMG_6028.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_6027.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Ended up making 430rwkws on E85 at just 20 psi.

Having alternator issues (not the limiting factor I was expecting)..

Tuner says it's still got more in it with a new alternator so looking into the LS1 conversion...

...Not heaps though as the small rear wheel is just beginning to restrict things and potentially my small pod filter too....

8 hours ago, mr_rbman said:

Ended up making 430rwkws on E85 at just 20 psi.

Having alternator issues (not the limiting factor I was expecting)..

Tuner says it's still got more in it with a new alternator so looking into the LS1 conversion...

...Not heaps though as the small rear wheel is just beginning to restrict things and potentially my small pod filter too....

Alternator limiting how ? I smell bullshit...

Coils and fuel pumps are your most power hungry things and I'd expect dramas very early in the tuning process if this was the case from a alternator causing a low voltage condition.

On 2/2/2023 at 10:24 PM, BK said:

Alternator limiting how ? I smell bullshit...

Coils and fuel pumps are your most power hungry things and I'd expect dramas very early in the tuning process if this was the case from a alternator causing a low voltage condition.

mmmm, interesting...

This side of things (electrical) goes over my head so I just took him at his word...

I'll have a chat to him next week to get a clearer understanding...

if the alternator can’t keep up and the voltage drops then it slows the fuel pumps slow down and can’t supply their full potential along with a list of many other things it does to the tune 

Or he's getting misfires with more boost because the voltages are subpar and his coils aren't producing the required spark.

I've experienced this, hence I have a relatively new 90AMP Circuit Sports alternator in my car.

 

3 hours ago, r32-25t said:

if the alternator can’t keep up and the voltage drops then it slows the fuel pumps slow down and can’t supply their full potential along with a list of many other things it does to the tune 

Like I said, the low voltage condition from an alternator will mainly affect fuel pump and coil operation but it has to be pretty severe to do that, injectors draw stuff all by comparison. Coils would start misfiring and you would start to have low fuel pressure lean outs, but the fact it supported enough for well over 400kw with stable AFR and no jittery power curve from misfies uptop doesn't really point to coils misfiring or low fuel pressure from the alternator limiting things at all. My point is you will see something more sinister happening well before you get to tune the thing properly.

4 hours ago, mr_rbman said:

mmmm, interesting...

This side of things (electrical) goes over my head so I just took him at his word...

I'll have a chat to him next week to get a clearer understanding...

Now don't get me wrong, having a more capable alternator with more headroom is always a good thing. I myself went from the stock 90A to an ARD 140A as I could see I was  getting only 12v at battery with all 3 fuel pumps running at idle under test conditions and would cause dramas. The ARD jumped it back to about 14.3v at full load at around 70A. End of the day a better alternator is never a bad thing, just usually not a likely thing if everything else checks out.

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Or he's getting misfires with more boost because the voltages are subpar and his coils aren't producing the required spark.

I've experienced this, hence I have a relatively new 90AMP Circuit Sports alternator in my car.

 

If this is the case you don't need to be at full load to see if something doesn't look right as your voltages even at idle will be a bit suspect.

1 hour ago, BK said:

this is the case you don't need to be at full load to see if something doesn't look right as your voltages even at idle will be a bit suspect.

Yes that is also true however it's not the first thing you look at when you're tuning.

Generally you'll interrogate voltages when things don't go as expected or planned, e.g. a misfire or sensors doing cooked shit lol

 

22 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Yes that is also true however it's not the first thing you look at when you're tuning.

Generally you'll interrogate voltages when things don't go as expected or planned, e.g. a misfire or sensors doing cooked shit lol

I get where you're coming from, but establishing the very important basics with things like what baseline voltages are at battery and fuel pump terminals, fuel pressure, base timing, spark plug type and gap and so on should be a given as a precheck before going anywhere near a dyno.

Going on a dyno to tune without doing any of this with something like say less than 13.0v at pump terminals or god forbid actually at the battery is just asking for tuners to crack the shits, as that will immediately flag potential problems elsewhere. i also accept unforseen things happen that can't be picked up until actually exposed on the dyno too, which is why the are such a great tool.

I notice a lot of places are asking for dyno prechecks to avoid exactly this sort of thing.

On 2/5/2023 at 5:30 PM, mr_rbman said:

so what should i do (from home) to eliminate other issues or potentially confirm that the alternator isn't up to the task?

Measure voltage at the battery, and voltage at the pump .

You can get multimeter that log over bluetooth pretty cheap from jaycar. Then you can see what us happening under load. 

 

I cant recall what ecu you are running, but it should be able to log its own voltage if it is any good.

1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

Measure voltage at the battery, and voltage at the pump .

You can get multimeter that log over bluetooth pretty cheap from jaycar. Then you can see what us happening under load. 

 

I cant recall what ecu you are running, but it should be able to log its own voltage if it is any good.

cheers.

Link G4X so yes you're right, i'll plug the laptop in and have a squiz (not used to a car with logging capabilities 🙃

1 hour ago, mr_rbman said:

cheers.

Link G4X so yes you're right, i'll plug the laptop in and have a squiz (not used to a car with logging capabilities 🙃

Start a log, wind out second gear, stop log.

Then look at voltage vs. RPM and see what it's doing.

(This is my experience, may not apply to others) Voltage might be perfect at idle, but over a certain RPM it will fall flat on its face and do nothing then back to 13V+ towards redline. Hard to catch without proper logging.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...