Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 3/5/2023 at 11:30 AM, MBS206 said:

The real question is, is the voltage still dropping...

still not sure, did a log and it didn't save or i did something wrong...

Away for work for a week and will hopefully try again logging soon...

  • 2 weeks later...

How long should oil 'typically' take to get up to temperature? ~75 - 80 degrees?

After 10 minutes of idling and then 15-20 minutes of sedate driving I'm lucky to get oil temps up over 60 degrees and i don't even run an oil cooler...

 

2 hours ago, Duncan said:

It does depend on outside temps, but no more than 5 minutes to be at operating temp....is your gauge working correctly?

This is reading directly from the link on my laptop whilst live monitoring

Edited by mr_rbman
add
1 hour ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Where is the temp sensor located?
I've found in the sump takes a long time and in the oil filter housing around 10-20 mins pending weather

not actually 100% sure, will find out...

On 3/20/2023 at 6:31 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

Where is the temp sensor located?
I've found in the sump takes a long time and in the oil filter housing around 10-20 mins pending weather

The sensor for the Link ECU is located on the turbos oil feed line...

 

  • 4 weeks later...

Finally hopped back on the dyno..

The LS alternator upgrade and going to a heavier gauged direct feed wire for the fuel pump solved my voltage drop issues...

Managed to squeeze a few more killerwasps out of her but the turbo is getting out of it's efficiency range now, nevertheless she feels great.... The new RE71RS' vs my 10 yr old RS3's probably don't help the power figure either but that is here nor there...

Now just to monitor and keep on top of oil pressure issues, I'm running Penrite ten tenths 10W50 overfilled to 6L and it's getting very close to the cut (obviously not ideal) but my last resort before going bigger sump is to follow the Motive recommendation of going to a 10W60...

thumbnail_IMG_6264.jpg

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...