Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'll share mine when I get back to the house. Still working on it and have done all the work myself save for machining the head for the valves and installing valve guides. Yes it's expensive. The hypertune V2 was by far my biggest adder of costs and potential headaches so far. Haven't touched the trans yet!

Hahaha long!

Was kinda talking about machining costs, assembly costs, porting costs ect

Tomei stroker $5,800

Tomei oil pump $1,500

Racepace Motorsport sump $1,500

Machining and assembly $3000

Head $10,000

Custom cams $1,200

ATI balancer $1,000

Nissan gasket kit $400

Water pump $200

Nismo 0.9 mm head gasket $400

Thats about it off the top of my head.

Forgot headstuds.

Also you did't use the spool stroker kit :P

Add a few thousand for miscellaneous stuff like new seals, gaskets, timing belt kit etc. I'd also say that machining and assembly cost is maybe a tad low?

Would DEFINITELY have done this had I seen it before doing mine myself. They have the pistons to match their cnc combustion chamber as well.

http://www.powerhouseracing.com/p-3491-phr-cnc-ported-race-head-complete-for-rb26.aspx

Tbh, as a BC 2.9 owner I wish I just bought another standard engine and didn't rebuild it at all.

Because the 4 times its been apart since could have been avoided, and yes while laggier I would have had way more time you know, actually drive the car and spending the money on track days, becoming way faster behind the seat with a 2.5 than 2.9L myself is today on a forum.

Would DEFINITELY have done this had I seen it before doing mine myself. They have the pistons to match their cnc combustion chamber as well.

http://www.powerhouseracing.com/p-3491-phr-cnc-ported-race-head-complete-for-rb26.aspx

That would be nice but aren't they like 12k for a bare block?

Tbh, as a BC 2.9 owner I wish I just bought another standard engine and didn't rebuild it at all.

Because the 4 times its been apart since could have been avoided, and yes while laggier I would have had way more time you know, actually drive the car and spending the money on track days, becoming way faster behind the seat with a 2.5 than 2.9L myself is today on a forum.

How come it's been apart 4 times since? My biggest fear with building a motor is getting the right person to do it, to many people out there think they know what they are doing, take your money and then you end up with problem after problem.

So a stock 34 motor you reckon lol?

Tbh, as a BC 2.9 owner I wish I just bought another standard engine and didn't rebuild it at all.Because the 4 times its been apart since could have been avoided, and yes while laggier I would have had way more time you know, actually drive the car and spending the money on track days, becoming way faster behind the seat with a 2.5 than 2.9L myself is today on a forum.

For what reason was it pulled apart 4 times ?

For what reason was it pulled apart 4 times ?

4 different reasons.

Point being as the poster a few posts up above said, your engine is only as good as the person who built it. And the more custom things you do, the more you are reliant on how good your builder is to get it right. I had this exact option many years ago, in the hands of someone who was very highly rated on this very forum, at the time.

Put another stock engine in, or for very little money go forged which will surely last longer.

And for not even that much more, why not use a 2.9 kit? I mean, it's apart, and it seems like sound logic.

Sure, if the builder is great your RB28 can still be fantastic.

But yeah. It doesn't always end up that way.

As a result, I am a proponent of staying off the unknown path as much as possible. Saving Engine rebuild money and putting it into DIff, Brakes, Suspension, Tyres, and track time will result in a faster car, even if you make 320kw on -9's instead of 450KW on a 28 or a 30 on a nice twin scroll single.

One of the cars will be left in the dust in the above example and it won't be the 26.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...