Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Brake Problems After Swapping To Gtr Brakes

Unclerico
 Share

Recommended Posts

Unclerico Apprentice

Unclerico

Posted
Posted
So I have a daily driven 89 Skyline GTE (no ABS) that I swapped to 5 lug hubs and R32 GTR brakes. Im using freshly turned OEM rotors, new Hawk ceramic pads and steel braid lines. At first I just used the stock GTE booster and master cylinder. After I fully bled the system and took it out to bed the brakes I could tell before I even got out of the garage that something was not right. The pedal pressure was stiffer than it should be and the car was just not slowing as much as it should. So I went out and bed the brakes anyway hoping that it would "come to life" if I just drove it a while. After about a month of driving the car this way I noticed that the rear rotors looked like they were still brand new. I could clearly see the cross hatching from being turned, its as if the rear pads are not clamping onto the rear rotor. When I step on the pedal the car just does not slow like it should be, my stock GTE brakes felt way better than these GTR brakes.


So I thought maybe the master cylinder is bad? So I bought a brand new bigger 1" master, swapped it out and bled the entire system again. I got the EXACT SAME FEEL!!! Stiff pedal and the car just does not stop the way it should. If there is an emergency situation where I would need to slam on my brakes they will just not be there for me.


Im totally lost on what it could be and I would really love some useful information and not your typical response of "bleed your brakes again".


Ive been a race mechanic/fabricator for the past 15 years and know how to bleed a cars brake system. Ive tried every different sequence that Ive found online. Ive tried using a pneumatic bleeder and hand bleeding, nothing seems to change the stiff pedal and weak braking power.


Please help.

hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

Posted
Posted

After about a month of driving the car this way

Ive been a race mechanic/fabricator for the past 15 years and know how to bleed a cars brake system. Ive tried every different sequence that Ive found online.

wait, you had crap brakes that you yourself say won't work in an emergency situation and you've driven it around this way for a month? give a fk for the safety of other road users much??? I really hope I've misunderstood what you posted.

And I would suggest, look elsewhere rather than bleeding the brake system again. Stuck rear calipers as Ben said, or check booster is working properly.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

First up, the rear brakes do next to no retarding of speed. The majority of the stopping is done by the front brakes.

To the main problem at hand - are these calipers brand new or second hand? If second hand, did you put a kit through them, and ensure that the pistons actually slide in the caliper body?

Unclerico Apprentice

Unclerico

Posted
  • Author
Posted
So yes it is a GTE and it is just a base model Skyline with the same sliding brakes as all the other base model NA vehicles. The R32 GTR brakes that I installed are the standard GTR non Brembo brakes.


The brakes that I installed were a used set that came directly off of another perfectly running GTR that actually did stop when stepping on the pedal. So no the pistons are not seized or anything funny going on like that.


And ok I may have over exaggerated a tad when I said I couldnt stop in an emergency. Was simply just trying to get my point across. Dont beat me down. lol


As for the booster, yes it very well could be the issue. Im not saying it isnt but the stock brakes with the same booster and master worked perfectly fine just hours earlier before I did the swap. So that would just make me think it is not a brake boster issue. However I think Im going to change it out anyway just to check.


I do realize that the rear brakes do not slow the car anywhere near the way the fronts do. I know this is sort of a "safety system", if you will, from the factory so people dont lock up the rear brakes first and spin out. However after 2 months of driving on fresh rotors it should not still have cross hatches from being turned. Those cross hatches should be gone within a day or two.


I doubt there is but its almost as if there is some kind of restrictor going to my rear brakes somewhere.


And since my pedal is so stiff its almost telling me to go back to a smaler master. I only went bigger in the first place because I figured I should at least start with the size that these calipers came with.


I bought a BM-50 for the Nissan Pathfinder. As it is the 3 port 1" master that works for RHD cars and I think its the only BMC that is readily available in the states. I read that this master is a "step bore master". For one I dont know if its true and if it is true would that cause this issue that Im having?

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Have you checked to see if the rear brakes work at all - jack the rear wheels off the ground and stand on the brake pedal (from a fairly slow speed to start with)? Is your booster working at all (brake pedal feels different with engine on or off)?

I fitted a BM57 from an R34 GTR with the stock booster and pedal was not too hard.

  • 2 weeks later...
GTRNate Newbie

GTRNate

Posted
Posted
So yes it is a GTE and it is just a base model Skyline with the same sliding brakes as all the other base model NA vehicles. The R32 GTR brakes that I installed are the standard GTR non Brembo brakes.
The brakes that I installed were a used set that came directly off of another perfectly running GTR that actually did stop when stepping on the pedal. So no the pistons are not seized or anything funny going on like that.
And ok I may have over exaggerated a tad when I said I couldnt stop in an emergency. Was simply just trying to get my point across. Dont beat me down. lol
As for the booster, yes it very well could be the issue. Im not saying it isnt but the stock brakes with the same booster and master worked perfectly fine just hours earlier before I did the swap. So that would just make me think it is not a brake boster issue. However I think Im going to change it out anyway just to check.
I do realize that the rear brakes do not slow the car anywhere near the way the fronts do. I know this is sort of a "safety system", if you will, from the factory so people dont lock up the rear brakes first and spin out. However after 2 months of driving on fresh rotors it should not still have cross hatches from being turned. Those cross hatches should be gone within a day or two.
I doubt there is but its almost as if there is some kind of restrictor going to my rear brakes somewhere.
And since my pedal is so stiff its almost telling me to go back to a smaler master. I only went bigger in the first place because I figured I should at least start with the size that these calipers came with.
I bought a BM-50 for the Nissan Pathfinder. As it is the 3 port 1" master that works for RHD cars and I think its the only BMC that is readily available in the states. I read that this master is a "step bore master". For one I dont know if its true and if it is true would that cause this issue that Im having?

Please tell me you have the Part Number for that "BM-50 for the Nissan Pathfinder. As it is the 3 port 1" master that works for RHD cars" brake master cylinder! or at very least the exact year and model/trim pathfinder its from ! I am in Canada trying to find a replacement bmc for my R32 GTR!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By The Bogan · Posted

      LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • MBS206
      Recommendation for engine oil funnel spill free

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • EndZee
      Fuel Pump Control Module & Dropping Resistor

      By EndZee · Posted

      Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...