Jump to content
SAU Community

R34gtr Bad Windscreen Reflection Glare

Nismo 3.2ish
 Share

Recommended Posts

Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
Posted

I have had over 25 cars in my life BUT the windscreen reflection on my 34 is something else, never had anything like this before. Had to change the undies a couple of times when I got home, lol

Always drive with sunnies on during the day.

I drive a lot early in the morning on a bendy road, come out of, or into a corner into the sun and the road disappears, I mean , gone! white out!

Cleaned inside and out, run the washers when it starts to look dirty ish, use the sun visor and still scary. :yes:

I put a black mat out of the Tiida on the dash and that helps a lot, 50% better but that goes where it wants when you accelerate hard . Just ordered a R34GTR dash mat and and I am sure it will help the glare.

Just wonder if some type of tinting could help or maybe it has been used and is the problem because it has scratched up or something ????

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Trex Grand Master

Trex

Posted
Posted

Funny you brought this up. I had the exact same thing happen today, first time ever I was driving blind.

The windscreen just needs a proper clean. Sometimes you need to re do it over and over again until streaks and glare are gone.

What do you use to clean your inside? Most products leave a film behind that will intensify glare.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

Hi Peter,

Use - 0000 fine steel wool you can get from Bunnings on the outside of your windscreen.

Give it a good rub over.

Then use Rainx following instructions.

Lastly get a 10-15cm sun strip for your front windscreen.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Funny you brought this up. I had the exact same thing happen today, first time ever I was driving blind.

The windscreen just needs a proper clean. Sometimes you need to re do it over and over again until streaks and glare are gone.

What do you use to clean your inside? Most products leave a film behind that will intensify glare.

I have to say , driving blind(not drunk) is one scary Mother f er

Some of the protectant products for the dash are too shinny, I think the angle of the windscreen and how close it is to the dash might also play a part ?

I have some glass polish and I will try it in the morning and see how that works ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have the Bosch GEX 150 Pro sander/polisher and all of the different microfibre cloths, pads, polish and a glass cleaning kit. Think I will have to get serious with it :)

Just did the drivers side earlier this morning and went for a run and it is a bit better but the mat I covered the dash with works the best to help stop the reflection.

I will have the full R34GTR dash mat coming early this week and I will do a full windscreen clean and polish and see how it goes.

The windscreen is only 1 hand width away from the dash at the front of the dash, on the Tiida, it is 1 hands width close to the windscreen and I have no reflection problem, I just wonder if the dash being so close to the windscreen could cause the reflection ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
luke gtr Grand Master

luke gtr

Posted
Posted

This is why I HATE silicon on the interior.

Way too much glare.

Also, watch the glass polishing, as it can cause warped vision if you create high/low spots.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
  • Author
Posted

This is why I HATE silicon on the interior.

Way too much glare.

Also, watch the glass polishing, as it can cause warped vision if you create high/low spots.

Sun in your face is easy, just drop the sun visor but that reflective glare is something else. It is only very early or late driving, no problem at other times. Maybe my eyes are stuffed ?

But , I have never had this type of glare in any other car and have used Armor All?

In the 34GTR it makes everything disappear, bloody scary, better than a radar camera to make you drive UNDER the speed limit :)

Now I have to watch out if I polish it unevenly , cant win, lol

I use Repco Eclips , not as shinny as Armor All but still shinny

Going to get super fine 0000 steel wool later and also try the Rainx

But I think the Dash Cover will do the trick and it has the cut outs for the Aircon etc. I will take a couple of pics and post them, should have it tomorrow.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites
junkie Experienced

junkie

Posted
Posted

cleaning the windscreen wont help much, its only good if its hazy and affects your vision at night, but doesn't appears to be the case

its probably just a fundamental design issue with the car - shape of the dash and the angles between dash, windscreen and driver's head

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Plastidip the dash matt black :P.

Funny you said that , got the dash mat today and stuff me if it is not a Nylon or similar and Fn sparkles when the sun is on it. I will go for a run in the morning and see what happens.

Plastidip, have to look it up ??????

If it is crap I was thinking a matt black spray might be ok, not too sure how it would look or smell , should be OK when totally dry ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
  • Author
Posted

cleaning the windscreen wont help much, its only good if its hazy and affects your vision at night, but doesn't appears to be the case

its probably just a fundamental design issue with the car - shape of the dash and the angles between dash, windscreen and driver's head

I think the design is the issue, windscreen very close to the dash and maybe since I am short I am closer than most ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
luke gtr Grand Master

luke gtr

Posted
Posted

Funny you said that , got the dash mat today and stuff me if it is not a Nylon or similar and Fn sparkles when the sun is on it. I will go for a run in the morning and see what happens.

Plastidip, have to look it up ??????

If it is crap I was thinking a matt black spray might be ok, not too sure how it would look or smell , should be OK when totally dry ?

plasti-dip is a mat black spray.

AFAIK, its a liquified rubber.

You can pull it off fairly easily too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
  • Author
Posted

plasti-dip is a mat black spray.

AFAIK, its a liquified rubber.

You can pull it off fairly easily too.

Probably do the job, but sounds like it might look a bit rough sitting on top of the dash ?

The dash mat is not a flat surface, some sort of carpet like material. Might try some black dye first if the mat causes glare, could always try the plasti-dip after if needed and if it comes off easily there should not be a problem if it looks a bit off :/

Let you know how the glare is tomorrow and take a pic, the mat itself looks , well OK ish but better than I thought it would look :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Or you could use a pillow......jus sayin'

Hahaha, first car was a 1936 Dodge @ 15, needed 2 pillows,1 to lift me up to see over the bonnet and the other so I could work the clutch, brake and go go, so do not knock the worth of a good pillow or 2, lol

Had a run this morning but left a bit late but there was no glare with this dash mat, have to do it again earlier or later this arvo to get a true result

As you can see from the pics, there are cut out for the aircon and passenger airbags. So at least they put some thought in making it.

post-52098-0-28305500-1464651626_thumb.jpg

post-52098-0-87032900-1464651693_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Oh gawds one of those mats. I'd spray the mat a, erm, matt colour to remove the shiny-ness.

That is the plan if it does not cut the glare down and with that Nylon type matting I guess it will not be too good. I think I will try the dye first to see how it goes ?

Have you had one of these, hard to tell when you see them on the web :/

Fit OK

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      Alcon TA6 Calipers on R33 GTST - Flexing

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Stick the caliper in your vice with soft jaws, that way you can turn it upside down simply. I think the factory lines are 10x1mm but I'd just take the whole thing down to your local Pirtek/MSCN and get them to sort it out.
    • PranK
      from switzerland to the moon

      By PranK · Posted

      Hi Andy and welcome!  Got any pics of the customers cars you're talking about? 
    • Nismo32
      Alcon TA6 Calipers on R33 GTST - Flexing

      By Nismo32 · Posted

      Thanks for that Komdotkom Does anyone by chance know what the thread is on the end of the hard line of the GTST front brake system before it goes to the braided line - will need to get a fitting to put in there as you say. Could you do this with the caliper on the car? Just get the pistons all the way back with a spacer or even some clamps? Im running a 36mm disc and 18mm pads - the pistons are almost as far back as they can get but i think with some old pads and a wedge I can make sure. Just easier if the caliper is mounted to something.
    • Komdotkom
      Alcon TA6 Calipers on R33 GTST - Flexing

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      The most important thing to do is to ensure that the pistons are fully back in the bores so that you can't get air bubbles forming behind them. If you've got AKB springs then you'll need to make some timber wedges to hold them back which is pretty simple - but you'll need wedges for bleeding anyway to stop the pistons moving up the bore. I'm a big fan of bleeding calipers from the 'bottom' because bubbles like to go 'up'. Since you're going to have the calipers off the car and mounted to some sort of fixture (unless you've got 5 sets of hands) I'd suggest that you bleed it by introducing fluid from both directions and with the caliper in both orientations. Get a barb for the end of your braided line and go to the chemist and get a 100ml syringe to force the fluid through with. You can use any old shit fluid for this (*new) because you'll displace it once you bleed the system properly later on with SRF or similar. Probably worth cracking the transfer pipe too just to be sure. Once you've got brake fluid everywhere and no more bubbles stick the caliper back on the car and bleed the fluid up from the caliper to the MC.
    • Lithium
      EFR Anti surge = T51R mod?

      By Lithium · Posted

      I've never had a T51R mod done on a turbo but can answer things to at least give you things to consider. Firstly, I'm pretty sure "T51R mod" is not going to be a completely standard identical design.  Different folks will make their own calls on how they want to make the sound, and different compressors and housings will give different amounts of space to work with as well - so the design and effect from company to company and turbo to turbo will be arbitrary.    In terms of "is it the same", no... it won't be, I'm pretty confident of that.   Whether it will have a negative (or NOT negative for that matter) effect really would be foolish of any of us to speculate on without any data.  Surge slots, or map width enchancement grooves basically bleed air from part way up the compressor out to the compressor inlet... effectively from the turbo's point of view it is an air leak that allows the turbo to be re-fed with the air that has been leaked.  When done "right" it can allow air that the turbo can't pump into the engine efficiently to spill back into the intake as opposed to cause a surge condition. Simply put, it has a direct effect on the efficiency of the compressor wheel.  When you are getting up to the maximum capacity of the compressor wheel the design of the intake and compressor rely on every bit of area of the inducer etc to work as efficiently as possible, if you have something literally designed to cause a leak of turbulent air (to make the sound) back to the intake it's hard to imagine there won't be some cost to the higher end of the flow capacity but I wouldn't dare even try and guess if it were either major, or academic.  Just bare in mind there will be an effect. On the "upside", I'm assuming you are going to be running the 1.05a/r hotside you had on the EFR9180 as you mentioned you don't want to do any fabrication work, and the 1.45 hotside DOES need the dump pipe (and as such, possibly exhaust) shifted as it actually pushes the turbine outlet further from the CHRA... its a huge housing.   I doubt you'll be able to safely push the 1.05a/r hotside on pump gas far enough for the 9280 compressor to actually start getting to the point you have to worry about sacrificing a bit of flow for sound. As you know, I'm a big EFR fan where it suits - unlike some, I just go on merits and suitability for setups and there are a lot of cases they are unbeatable.   In the case of where you're going though, I'm not convinced that line is the best thing for the job.  To do it right I'd either stay with what you have, as you're finding it's pretty hard to make the car more powerful than it is without sacrificing "something" - or do a "proper" upgrade to an all new beast that has the turbine flow to support what you are looking for, and arguably also has the T51R sound and vibe which I'm hardly going to throw stones at you for looking for... you'll remember that my turbo choice for my old R33 was absolutely influenced by the induction noise the GT3076Rs make haha.    Given the price of an EFR9280 and T51R mod, any work to get it installed and tuned to suit may turn out to give a result that makes you wonder if it was worth the effort - but if you're willing to spend that and not worried about massive gains, I'm pretty sure what you're proposing *will* give you some of that sound and probably stretch the power out a bit further in the rpm.   I've so far not heard any unmodified EFR sound "whistly" like what I'm assuming you're looking for, though.
×
×
  • Create New...