Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I have a series 1 r33 running spitfire coils, 1250cc injectors, walbro 460 fuel pump, gtx3076r and an Apexi fc. 

 

The car DOESNT struggle on start up/Idle, but splutters and struggles to accelerate. After 15mins or so of driving, the car suddenly runs as normal and runs like a champ. 

 

The problem all started within one day- I drove the car in the morning and it ran fine and then came back to it 2 hours after of parking and the problem started. Hasn't gotten worse or any better.

I have checked the spark plugs, they all look fine.

 

Is it a coilpack problem? 

Ecu problem? 

Sensor problem? As it runs like shit until normal engine temp. 

 

Thanks a a million guys,

Any help is much appreciated.

  • Like 1

Sounds like maybe the cold start map is rooted?  Could be related to a sensor, I imagine a temp sensor.

I'm a f**king genius, I know.

Or I have no idea what the hell I'm talking about.  I'll let you decide.

Actually, i just found this - http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/21-tuning-technical-questions/217142-r33-gtst-starting-problems-help-please.html - it explains how to test the coolant temp sensor (wasn't the issue in his case).

 

  • Like 2

@Cowboy1600  Thanks man, I'll definitely consider what you suggested. I'm hoping that it isn't ECU related because I can't afford a tune!

Can anyone suggest any other possible causes? As I said it misfires pretty bad until the engine is warm (or after 15 or so mins of driving).

Thanks!

If the car ran fine then all of a sudden it started playing up, it isn't tune related. I'm with cowboy and suggesting a sensor. Probably coolant sensor, I believe there is a couple of them, not 100% sure. Do you have a hand controller for the power fc? If you do, you could check what the sensors are reading and if anything looks suspect.

There are two coolant sensors. the one with one wire goes to the gauge so won't be a factor. The one with two wires goes to the ecu. Try pulling the wires off . if it cold starts ok its definitely the sensor as without it the ecu will use a back up map but if its dodgy it will mess with things. 

Thanks for the responses everyone. But a bit of an update; drove it again today and it misfired until completely warm, where it would then normally stop misfiring once warm, but today I also noticed a slight misfire whilst driving once the car was completely warm as well? The misfire when warm is irregular but seems to be on partial throttle, but full throttle it doesnt misfire :/ Still a coolant sensor problem possibly? Thoughts? 

Edited by Azj
3 hours ago, Azj said:

Thanks for the responses everyone. But a bit of an update; drove it again today and it misfired until completely warm, where it would then normally stop misfiring once warm, but today I also noticed a slight misfire whilst driving once the car was completely warm as well? The misfire when warm is irregular but seems to be on partial throttle, but full throttle it doesnt misfire :/ Still a coolant sensor problem possibly? Thoughts? 

What's the point of sharing my thoughts if you just ignore them? Pull the wires off the sensor - 2 second job as above. If it doesn't make any difference its a two second job to put them back!!!

Could be a million reasons, the RB loves to keep you guessing. My experiences here, can be used as a bit of a checklist: 

Anyway mine ended up being a busted CAS so it broke down past 4000rpm, yours sounds a little different.

UPDATE: So I pulled the coolant temp sensor out (to the ECU) and the car ran fine as it should with no misfiring. I put it back in and started the car again and seemed to rev/idle as normal as well with no misfire? Is it possible that the sensor just needed to be unplugged then plugged back in? And reset itself or something? Also, I pulled out the spark plugs and they are pretty black and look like they could do with replacement plugs.

@V28VX37  Thanks for your reply man- I'll have a look at your post if the problem persists.

Edited by Azj

Id pull the plug off the coolant temp sensor (ecu) and clean the contacts. Continue to drive and see if it is better. I would hazard a guess its more likely you have partially cleaned the contacts by removing and then re-installing the plug if the problem seems to have fixed itself. The ECU merely reacts to what the coolant sensor is telling it so there is no 're-setable' element to it

  • 1 month later...

Hey guys..just a bit of an update;


Ended up taking it back to my tuner and we diagnosed that an injector was faulty and replaced it. After this, the car seemed to run fine when you weren't hitting it hard, but when I did, 1st gear would break up badly (only 1st) and every other gear didnt feel like it was hitting full boost (I don't have a boost gauge). This all happened for about a week then the misfiring during sedate driving happened all of a sudden again.

Took it back and we diagnosed another faulty injector and replaced it. I got the car back today and it doesn't misfire when driving sedately, but 1st gear still breaks up hard and it doesn't feel like its hitting full boost in the other gears. 

Is the next step replacing coilpacks? What else could be the root of the problem from other peoples experiences,

Thanks a million guys.

Hi Aaron

 just looked at the FSM page EN-139 states

Perform CONSULT active test mode
( Increasing "FUEL INJECTION" item) or
enrich mixture by disconnecting engine
temperature sensor connector and
inserting a 600 Ohm resistance after warming up the engine. )

Nissan suggest that insufficient fuel pressure could cause misfire on acceleration.

Has fuel pressure been checked? Have you an after market fuel pressure regulator or Stock? need to check that the regulator is working correctly also.

Lots of other checks that should be done on pages EN-139 - EN-142 before changing parts by guessing.

Michael.

Edited by msammut
  • 1 month later...

Sorry for the late reply but cheers for the response Michael- although the fuel pressure is fine on the FPR. 

So now the car isn't missing as it was after replacing the coilpack loom.

Though the car is DEFINITELY  still down on power, and sometimes splutters briefly then pulls when you get on boost around 4500rpm and full throttle (again, the pull isn't as hard as what it used to be).

 

Tuner seems to think it's not the splitfire coilpacks after testing, all Injectors have been replaced, I've checked the coolant temp sensors, O2 sensors etc but yet no avail.

 

Can anyone suggest anything else? 

 

Thanks a million guys.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...