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Piece together a Nismo style oil cooler kit for R34

I am trying to piece together a Nismo style oil cooler kit for my R34. seems like you can just buy the Nismo oil cooler ducts, and would be a lot cheaper to buy all the parts seperately and you get better result. Similar to what member HIRISK has done. Do you know what size Setrab oil cooler should I get?

  1. Setrab Oil Cooler (need correct size)
  2. Nismo Oil Cooler Ductings
  3. TRUST GREDDY GREX Remote Oil Filter Relocation with Thermostat
  4. TRUST GREDDY GREX Engine Oil Block Adapter
  5. Nomex/Kevlar braided hose
  6. -10AN Fittings

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  • Like 1

Lol. I have done EXACTLY this. haven't fitted it yet but have literally all the bits, except i didn't buy the nismo installation bracket kit as i was going to fab them out of steel instead, they wanted like 300 bucks just for a few bits of metal.

I have a Setrab series 6 25 row cooler, and it is slightly too tall to fit into the nismo ducting but was planning to cut and fibreglass the duct to fit it correctly. I will get some pictures tonight to show you what the issue is.

the setrab rows are much shorter than the older greddy style coolers, so 25 row setrab is slightly taller and longer than a 13 row Greddy/Trust one (which is basically the same core as the nismo one)

A25F22L_1_lg.jpg

 

 

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the greddy core is the same as the nismo one and I think would fit the duct perfectly. there are lots of 13 row coolers on the market with this older design so its an easier option. I went the setrab as I wanted the best cooler I could fit in there.

 

here is the genuine kit. the cooler is a 13 row one same as basically all the japanese brands, and now china copies.

55810-4_2.jpg

and here is what the nismo bracket kit looks like (21308-RNR45):

nengun-2669-05-nismo-oil_cooler_kit.jpg

Edited by burn4005

My oil cooler mission was all kinds of painful: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462362-oil-cooler-too-eager-faulty-thermostat-or-incorrect-temp-sensor-location/


Learnings:

- Do NOT buy a second hand kit

- Do NOT buy a Mocal sandwich plate for a street car (too much flow when cold) or if you want to run any sensors (who doesn't?)

- DO buy best quality hoses you can afford

- DO buy kevlar hoses so you don't have to stuff around with garden hose over it to stop rubbing, like I did

- DO install core in the guard instead of in inline with rad/AC/IC

Tl;Dr - Cheap out upfront and you'll pay manyfold later. Do your homework.

  • Like 2
47 minutes ago, Gts30t said:

Yep all that nismo stuff just made the ztune a piece of shit 

but most of the stuff on the Z-Tune isn't available to purchase.. 

9 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Look at the construction of the Setrab cooler and you will see it is superior to the "Nismo" one.

Seems like Setrab 25 row is a bit too big and their 19 row is a bit too small... Fail

 

Greddy 13 row oil cooler size is L299mm x H185.4mm x W50mm . got the info from here

841705850_m.jpg

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Edited by etang789

I have a 19 rows on a rb20 14psi/0.9b of boost and its just enough on track. I could duct it properly to gain some more cooling out of it but on a 30% bigger engine and much more power I don't think that will be a good idea even if ducted proprely.

 

Better take the 25 one and make it fit, at least if the goal is to track it. On the street the 19 rows will suffice.

  • Like 1

Pretty severe driving if you need an oil cooler on the street? I'm yet to see a street where you can sit on WOT for long periods...

I've got a 19 row Mocal on RB25DET Neo at 20psi and it seems to be fine on the track.

Pretty severe driving if you need an oil cooler on the street? I'm yet to see a street where you can sit on WOT for long periods...

I've got a 19 row Mocal on RB25DET Neo at 20psi and it seems to be fine on the track.



I have noticed that the oil temp gets up there on those really hot summer days in bumper to bumper traffic.

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