Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 7/2/2017 at 1:25 AM, MotHot said:

Oohh, shiny

Looking forward to your results, hope everything comes together nicely!

 

So far so good! Nearly ready for the tune... Just been tidying up some small stuff while its at Fabtech... 

It all runs and is nice and quiet with the new stainless exhaust system... It no longer sounds like a tug boat at idle :laugh:

Will be interesting to see what it sounds like at full noise!

Where's all the twins at?!?!?!!?

 

Here's my lump of coal. Scooped these baddies up in 2012 and they got installed just 3 months ago. Long story short this build has been in the toilet since 2011 and has gone through 2 builds which neither lasted. These 5 year old turbos ran for 2 seconds (total time since purchase lol) just a few days ago, literally, and the tomei engine failed due to seized exhaust cam on bearing cap 1. Anyway, maybe some day I'll have dyno charts for them. Don't mind all the colors, ran out of budget for paint lol.

19368988_10158755349590104_750265739_o.png

19512337_10158812347915104_1849241014_n.jpg

  • Like 2

quick question for those running an 8374 or larger,

got the 8374 running a few weeks ago and mine makes a bit of a siren sound during low rpm spool that I'm used to with things like  HKS T51R turbos and the like, but is the siren sound normal on the B2 Frame EFRs?

sounds like the full race R14 in this video but not as loud.

That sound to me if it was a non anti-surge cover turbo would signal a damaged turbo. looking around youtube it appears some do it and some don't, could be camera mics or something I guess?

 

Edited by burn4005
  • Like 1

9174 is going on a mates car, Nitto 2.7 with head work.

engine should be done in a few weeks.

I've got ~460awkw on the 8374 on my car and that's enough for me, my getrag and my clutch for the time being.

but if the 9174 turns out to be a no brainer then I guess I'll be doing it too eventually..I'm holding off for a black series 8474  for the time being if that ever happens.

Edited by burn4005
  • Like 1
4 minutes ago, burn4005 said:

9174 is going on a mates car, Nitto 2.7 with head work.

engine should be done in a few weeks.

I've got ~460awkw on the 8374 on my car and that's enough for me, my getrag and my clutch for the time being.

but if the 9174 turns out to be a no brainer then I guess I'll be doing it too eventually..I'm holding off for a black series 8474  for the time being if that ever happens.

Sorry I may have missed your results, what capacity is your engine and what exhaust housing do you have on the 8374. 460awak @ what boost?

engine is 2.63l (87mm)

1.05 rear housing, about 30psi and full boost reached at about 4700rpm. could probably lean on it a bit more timing wise up top and a bit more to do on cams (260 poncams)

6 boost single waste gate manifold with divider to the valve face.

quite similar result to FAT33R.. I suspect he's making a fair bit more up top due to the screamer.

 

Edited by burn4005
  • Like 1

unfortunately no sensor, will be doing further dynoing soon to improve TPS boost control, throttle enrichment stuff and Map the atessa duty to a torque split ratio value.

I have a sensor on the turbo now.

will FINALLY also get some high speed logs (100hz) of turbo response off boost, between gears, coasting high rpm to WOT etc. i think we're all due for those numbers after 7 years of talking about the response of an EFR!

Edited by burn4005
  • Like 5
4 hours ago, burn4005 said:

unfortunately no sensor, will be doing further dynoing soon to improve TPS boost control, throttle enrichment stuff and Map the atessa duty to a torque split ratio value.

I have a sensor on the turbo now.

will FINALLY also get some high speed logs (100hz) of turbo response off boost, between gears, coasting high rpm to WOT etc. i think we're all due for those numbers after 7 years of talking about the response of an EFR!

How do you find it, data aside?

17 hours ago, burn4005 said:

engine is 2.63l (87mm)

1.05 rear housing, about 30psi and full boost reached at about 4700rpm. could probably lean on it a bit more timing wise up top and a bit more to do on cams (260 poncams)

6 boost single waste gate manifold with divider to the valve face.

quite similar result to FAT33R.. I suspect he's making a fair bit more up top due to the screamer.

 

Would be interesting to see your mph.

Mine was 2psi short on the night and i ran 134mph so id expect 136-138mph with 31psi down its throat. 

I have the car back. First test drive around the street was positive. Way, way, better tham the old tomei ARMS (that being said that's not a huge compliment)

Things making boost easily, can comfortably drive it around the streets with no dramas. It does still feel like a big turbo though, part of me does think that maybe i should have got a 7670. That being said i'm sure that will change with E85 and timing and making more than 400kw with more boost.

Is it tuned?  Or is this just running around on the previously mentioned 7-9psi?    There is definitely no magic, these things (particularly the 8374 and the 9180) are still large turbos - they just are very responsive for the flow they provide.  E85 and well over 400kw will make it all make much more sense :)

yes, still just on 98, 7psi spring in the gate; no boost control, and only 9 degrees of timing if i remeber correctly.
In the coming days i'll sort out a few gremlins and get the courage up to actually venture a bit further and out into the countryside and get a better idea of how it performs, so i'll have some more detailed thoughts then.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...