Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

3 hours ago, Full-Race Geoff said:

The 9180 1.05 can easily supply 500rwkw worth of airflow.  the rest of the setup will need to support this, fuel is the biggest factor (knock)

Full-Race has a few in stock, there will be a sale for the big holiday in the states this weekend

BTW, I meant awkw, not rwkw.

21 minutes ago, Piggaz said:

Piss it in. 8374/1.45 on my setup went 517 AWKW at 122,000 turbine RPM. 490 AWKW with the 1.05 bum.

Thanks mate. Is that on a 2.8 and on 98 or flex? Looks like you were just under the line there - for the 8374, is it 125k max shaft. speed?

Paul , you have had the 1.45 on for a while now and at first you were sort of thinking about switching back to the 1.05.

You have had a few runs now and one today with Dan , have you made your mind up yet ?

 

2 hours ago, Nismo 3.2ish said:

you have had a few runs now and one today with Dan , have you made your mind up yet ?

 

Nugget. Spending money on the wrong things, needs a shift boot and a front lip ffs.

I am too upset to talk about it in depth right now but will update with more when I am back in NZ ?;)

Edited by Lithium
56 minutes ago, fatz said:

1.45 no good? 

 

Dont they make like 4 million kw in seppo land? 

1.45 has its place. Did the Huntley hill climb today and just doodling through it at a corner that I had huge issues with the twins, it was ready to turn tyres.

I won’t be going back to the 1.05. Sub 3000 RPM there is Definately a penalty to pay, it feels a bit “soft”, from 4000 RPM it’s fine. If you’re “driving it” it’s all there. The 0.92 IMO should be made redundant IMO. No need for it.

Still well infront is the -5’s that we’re on it either way. 

Without the head work you have done and slightly higher CR 9.1 ish , would the 1.45 still give you what you want or just lag it to much for what you like in a Street car

Guess without some sort of comparison it would be hard to know how much difference it would make .

11 hours ago, Nismo 3.2ish said:

Without the head work you have done and slightly higher CR 9.1 ish , would the 1.45 still give you what you want or just lag it to much for what you like in a Street car

Guess without some sort of comparison it would be hard to know how much difference it would make .

Stock head no.

Depends on what you want, what you’re happy with. Having driven both, I would want my cake and eat it too. If the engine ever comes out I’ll throw a V cam at it and possibly bump the compression up a tad higher. Cake and eat it too?

As you know I am thinking of doing some headwork ( never ends lol) wondering if anyone has a 3.0 or 3.2 Lt that has has the compression increased  up to 10.5 ish   , mine is down to 8.1 for whatever reason during work on the stroker build ?

Maybe also done  some port & polish work?

Back to back Dyno runs would be great 

I will stick with the 8374/1.05 

Of course you should do that.  8:1 is 1980s CR for boost.  But you won't get that increase by changing the head. You'll need pistons.

20% increase in capacity means a 20% increase in head flow wouldn't be a bad idea.  Easily achieved with sensible porting.  1mm bigger valves gives the perfect opportunity to properly do the seat angles and shape the bowl into the back of the seats.  And there goes 5 grand.

8 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Of course you should do that.  8:1 is 1980s CR for boost.  But you won't get that increase by changing the head. You'll need pistons.

20% increase in capacity means a 20% increase in head flow wouldn't be a bad idea.  Easily achieved with sensible porting.  1mm bigger valves gives the perfect opportunity to properly do the seat angles and shape the bowl into the back of the seats.  And there goes 5 grand.

A decent full effort head costs as much as the bottom end. That’s where the last 15% of performance is found. Depends on how much that last bit is worth to you.

 

 

Sort it out Pete!

20 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Of course you should do that.  8:1 is 1980s CR for boost.  But you won't get that increase by changing the head. You'll need pistons.

20% increase in capacity means a 20% increase in head flow wouldn't be a bad idea.  Easily achieved with sensible porting.  1mm bigger valves gives the perfect opportunity to properly do the seat angles and shape the bowl into the back of the seats.  And there goes 5 grand.

There will have to be new pistons to go with the new work, it will have to be done properly especially with the Vcam in the car, I already have 1mm OS valves 

i decided that if I am going to pull the donk down, get it all done at the same time

Wouldn’t do it if I did not have E85 close by now ?

24 minutes ago, Piggaz said:

A decent full effort head costs as much as the bottom end. That’s where the last 15% of performance is found. Depends on how much that last bit is worth to you.

 

 

Sort it out Pete!

Yeah mate , as you know I have been tossing it around for a long time and can’t help myself, must do it , have to feel the difference when I press the peddle, like an Fn drug ?

Just now, fatz said:

Pulling down a running motor is just dumb

just saying

 

break then fix

Know what you mean but I am not going to break it anytime soon and at 76 , F it I want to finish It , just wish I knew what I wanted at the getgo, but I think there are many blokes doing work on their cars and the goal posts just seem to keep moving 

But I had no idea I would go this far , it just gets in your blood like herpies and just keeps coming back when you think it over ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...