Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

12 minutes ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

You would think that but it's not. It's a parallel thread, and it's not M10x1 because that's what I took a punt on and the thread is about half that size ?

Um.....female pipe threads (BSP, NPT) are always parallel. The taper goes on the male.

Pretty sure its metric, did it over Christmas. Maybe M8? Don't have the reference catalog here but it was pretty much the only option in metric for a -3 male fitting for that thread size.

Edit: well, for an 8374, maybe its different on the smaller ones?

 

I distinctly remember how odd it was that my USA designed turbo had metric threads and the Australian Designed Turbostmart wastegate had imperial threads.

There's not really any such thing as "metric pipe threads". When we're talking about screw in fittings, and elbows and Tees that go onto pipe, etc etc, there is really only 2 dominant threads. BSP and NPT. The Yanks, the oil & gas industry and a few others are stuck on NPT. The rest of the world pretty much uses BSP. The Europeans call BSP threads by other names though. If you see a German company describing a threaded port or stub on their equipment, they will call it G1/2" or G15 (same thing). And there are other variations on the theme.

M8 is a bolt thread specification. It is really not relevant to "plumbing" fittings. People don't use metric bolt thread forms for tapered male into female sealing threads. They may well use metric bolt thread forms on collars of fittings that use seats to seal (like Swagelok or other similar pneumatic or hydraulic fittings) but they are just as likely to be imperial/American or totally custom in those systems, seeing as they are usually proprietary anyway.

  • Like 1

Yes, and look at the conical seat on that port. It is clearly meant to work with a bespoke fitting that has that cone on it. Seems silly, when everybody else would just use a 1/8" NPT or BSP parallel in there, with a tapered fitting.

I mean, good on the yanks for doing something, anything, in metric. But dumbo points for using a metric bolt thread for a f**king plumbing fitting.

48 minutes ago, taijohnsen said:

It's not that big of a deal really...

Well, it kinda is. They've used a thread that looks about the same as a 1/8" pipe thread, but isn't. Then you either have to use their fitting or go out of your way to get a fitting that has that thread on it, which has got to be about 100x more difficult than just getting something with a 1/8".

50 minutes ago, taijohnsen said:

Conical seat would be for an o-ring I would have thought.

But then it wouldn't tighten up. You'd be relying on a threadlocking compound to stop the fitting backing out.

3 minutes ago, burn4005 said:

Why not? AN fitting ORB threads are parallel and they seem to be fine.

Because an o-ring is a cushion that prevents the male fitting from pulling up hard on the external seat of the connection, unless the o-ring is deformed beyond intended design in that conical seat.

That seat is not designed for an o-ring.

AN fittings do not look like that. Parallel threads are of course completely normal on collar type fluid couplings that have conical metal on metal seats. This is not the same situation.

Agree with what you're saying re the fact that metric pipe threads are not a thing, but in the end, it is a M8x1.0 thread. And Speedflow makes a fitting for it so it can't be that rare of a thing: https://www.redlineauto.com.au/p-2547-speedflow-349-04-m8-x-10-to-4-male.aspx

 

For what its worth Iv'e had one in there for a while now, leak tested to 30PSI no issues, doesn't seem to back out at all (steel fitting in aluminium probably helps there). If you're that worried put some sealant on there. 

How the actual f**k do brake fittings work!

Here is the short version. True pipe threads seal on the threads. Other applications use a standard thread then use a gasket/copper washer ect.

And then you can also seal on a tapered bit but thats another story.

The end of the brake pipe is flared. That forms the female part of the cone seat. The male part of that is either buried in the bottom of the threaded hole (say on a caliper, MC, prop valve) or in the other fitting, if is just some coupling fitting somewhere partway along a line.

The "nut" that is on the brake line has a male thread that screws into the female thread (on the caliper, etc) and pushes on the back side of the flared end of the pipe, pushing it against the male flare.

So, it is a tapered seal, as per your discarded throwaway line at the end of your post.

Simples, squeak.

Or were you being ironic?

Not unless it's bleeding boost or compressor stalls on throttle lift off...

My 7136 used to comp stall a lot, and I  don't have a VL commo, so I put the 50/50 kompact shorty on it with a lighter spring.

I'm not using it any more if anyone would like it. It's bronze now, not black tho... 

15 hours ago, Timmaz300 said:

Is there any reason to upgrade the factory recirculation valve for a Turbosmart recirculated or 50/50 valve on my 9274?

received_895708637612980.jpeg

What are the temperature ratings on the Festo pneumatic hose and fittings?  It looks nice and neat and definitely easy to install. But I'm a bit sceptical it would live long on the hotside there? ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...