Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

12 minutes ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

You would think that but it's not. It's a parallel thread, and it's not M10x1 because that's what I took a punt on and the thread is about half that size ?

Um.....female pipe threads (BSP, NPT) are always parallel. The taper goes on the male.

Pretty sure its metric, did it over Christmas. Maybe M8? Don't have the reference catalog here but it was pretty much the only option in metric for a -3 male fitting for that thread size.

Edit: well, for an 8374, maybe its different on the smaller ones?

 

I distinctly remember how odd it was that my USA designed turbo had metric threads and the Australian Designed Turbostmart wastegate had imperial threads.

There's not really any such thing as "metric pipe threads". When we're talking about screw in fittings, and elbows and Tees that go onto pipe, etc etc, there is really only 2 dominant threads. BSP and NPT. The Yanks, the oil & gas industry and a few others are stuck on NPT. The rest of the world pretty much uses BSP. The Europeans call BSP threads by other names though. If you see a German company describing a threaded port or stub on their equipment, they will call it G1/2" or G15 (same thing). And there are other variations on the theme.

M8 is a bolt thread specification. It is really not relevant to "plumbing" fittings. People don't use metric bolt thread forms for tapered male into female sealing threads. They may well use metric bolt thread forms on collars of fittings that use seats to seal (like Swagelok or other similar pneumatic or hydraulic fittings) but they are just as likely to be imperial/American or totally custom in those systems, seeing as they are usually proprietary anyway.

  • Like 1

Yes, and look at the conical seat on that port. It is clearly meant to work with a bespoke fitting that has that cone on it. Seems silly, when everybody else would just use a 1/8" NPT or BSP parallel in there, with a tapered fitting.

I mean, good on the yanks for doing something, anything, in metric. But dumbo points for using a metric bolt thread for a f**king plumbing fitting.

48 minutes ago, taijohnsen said:

It's not that big of a deal really...

Well, it kinda is. They've used a thread that looks about the same as a 1/8" pipe thread, but isn't. Then you either have to use their fitting or go out of your way to get a fitting that has that thread on it, which has got to be about 100x more difficult than just getting something with a 1/8".

50 minutes ago, taijohnsen said:

Conical seat would be for an o-ring I would have thought.

But then it wouldn't tighten up. You'd be relying on a threadlocking compound to stop the fitting backing out.

3 minutes ago, burn4005 said:

Why not? AN fitting ORB threads are parallel and they seem to be fine.

Because an o-ring is a cushion that prevents the male fitting from pulling up hard on the external seat of the connection, unless the o-ring is deformed beyond intended design in that conical seat.

That seat is not designed for an o-ring.

AN fittings do not look like that. Parallel threads are of course completely normal on collar type fluid couplings that have conical metal on metal seats. This is not the same situation.

Agree with what you're saying re the fact that metric pipe threads are not a thing, but in the end, it is a M8x1.0 thread. And Speedflow makes a fitting for it so it can't be that rare of a thing: https://www.redlineauto.com.au/p-2547-speedflow-349-04-m8-x-10-to-4-male.aspx

 

For what its worth Iv'e had one in there for a while now, leak tested to 30PSI no issues, doesn't seem to back out at all (steel fitting in aluminium probably helps there). If you're that worried put some sealant on there. 

How the actual f**k do brake fittings work!

Here is the short version. True pipe threads seal on the threads. Other applications use a standard thread then use a gasket/copper washer ect.

And then you can also seal on a tapered bit but thats another story.

The end of the brake pipe is flared. That forms the female part of the cone seat. The male part of that is either buried in the bottom of the threaded hole (say on a caliper, MC, prop valve) or in the other fitting, if is just some coupling fitting somewhere partway along a line.

The "nut" that is on the brake line has a male thread that screws into the female thread (on the caliper, etc) and pushes on the back side of the flared end of the pipe, pushing it against the male flare.

So, it is a tapered seal, as per your discarded throwaway line at the end of your post.

Simples, squeak.

Or were you being ironic?

Not unless it's bleeding boost or compressor stalls on throttle lift off...

My 7136 used to comp stall a lot, and I  don't have a VL commo, so I put the 50/50 kompact shorty on it with a lighter spring.

I'm not using it any more if anyone would like it. It's bronze now, not black tho... 

15 hours ago, Timmaz300 said:

Is there any reason to upgrade the factory recirculation valve for a Turbosmart recirculated or 50/50 valve on my 9274?

received_895708637612980.jpeg

What are the temperature ratings on the Festo pneumatic hose and fittings?  It looks nice and neat and definitely easy to install. But I'm a bit sceptical it would live long on the hotside there? ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...