Jump to content
SAU Community

Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0


Piggaz

Recommended Posts

4 hours ago, Count Grantleyish said:

 


What manifold and gate are you running?

 

Crg manifold single gate but has the split pulse thing.

I have a really old style tial 60mm gate which came with the t04z which was on the car. Probably isn't helping response but I cbf spending more money to go newer version.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, usmair said:

Crg manifold single gate but has the split pulse thing.

I have a really old style tial 60mm gate which came with the t04z which was on the car. Probably isn't helping response but I cbf spending more money to go newer version.

No boost spikes or control issues with single gate?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The odds of having a perfectly seated gate on a divider plate are very slim particularly with the expansion and contraction a manifold will go through with such a large range of heat cycles.

 Its gunna pass gasses between pulses that are meant to be split and create pressure differences between each side of the manifold. 

The divider plate in the wastegate line is usually a piece of sheetmetal plate welded into a piece of pipe or an elbow which probably isnt completely seal welded all the way through isn't gunna last long in that environment. With a few tack welds holding it in its place its destined to break those welds and end up somewhere it doesn't belong. 

 Yes i know I'm being picky and its only "my theory" but i think it poses too many flaws to an optimised twin scroll set up and also jeopardizes the reliability and generally speaking eliminates issues within your setup. 

In all honesty if you can afford to buy a nice twin scroll manifold and a split pulse housing turbo SPEND an extra grand on the extra gate, some AN fittings and fab work hooking another gate up... If you can't "afford it" be a good lil saver and hold off a few more weeks till you save those extra bucks for a twin gate setup! 

Reality is its probably not even a grand when you consider the cost of 1 big gate vs 2 smaller gates and the potential time and money saved on dyno time etc. 

When you're paying $120+ an hour for a shop to work on your car that "money saved" on not buying that  extra gate can soon take a backwards turn. 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Mick_o said:

The odds of having a perfectly seated gate on a divider plate are very slim particularly with the expansion and contraction a manifold will go through with such a large range of heat cycles.

 Its gunna pass gasses between pulses that are meant to be split and create pressure differences between each side of the manifold. 

The divider plate in the wastegate line is usually a piece of sheetmetal plate welded into a piece of pipe or an elbow which probably isnt completely seal welded all the way through isn't gunna last long in that environment. With a few tack welds holding it in its place its destined to break those welds and end up somewhere it doesn't belong. 

 Yes i know I'm being picky and its only "my theory" but i think it poses too many flaws to an optimised twin scroll set up and also jeopardizes the reliability and generally speaking eliminates issues within your setup. 

In all honesty if you can afford to buy a nice twin scroll manifold and a split pulse housing turbo SPEND an extra grand on the extra gate, some AN fittings and fab work hooking another gate up... If you can't "afford it" be a good lil saver and hold off a few more weeks till you save those extra bucks for a twin gate setup! 

Reality is its probably not even a grand when you consider the cost of 1 big gate vs 2 smaller gates and the potential time and money saved on dyno time etc. 

When you're paying $120+ an hour for a shop to work on your car that "money saved" on not buying that  extra gate can soon take a backwards turn. 

 

 

yup, do it once do it right

heck im just a goon SR20 owner and even ive bit the bullet n gone twin gate.....

the tial mv-s 38millers are nice lil compact units....

my 6boost egt equipped mani rocks up this week......should have the 7670 on and sorted in the next couple weeks.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, BakemonoRicer said:

yup, do it once do it right

heck im just a goon SR20 owner and even ive bit the bullet n gone twin gate.....

the tial mv-s 38millers are nice lil compact units....

my 6boost egt equipped mani rocks up this week......should have the 7670 on and sorted in the next couple weeks.

Very curious to see how your sr20 goes. Det or ve? I've got a 7163 t4 Ts internal gate on full race Mani on my sr20det. So keen to see what your response is like going to a 7670.

What do you use the car for? Assuming you'll be getting around 380rwkw on that setup. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The divider in the 6 boost manifold is VERY impressive fab work.

Very thick 6mm plate , fully welded all the way through and the end is profiled to the face of the gate valve.

Before installing I disassembled my 50mm progate to confirm fitment of the seat, valve and gate housing to the manifold and it was an excellent fit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

34psi??? Iv got one myself and it’s nowhere near that atm and I’m at about 490kw at 25psi. Have you guys actually started tuning or was it just decided to run 34psi. Hope you have a speed sensor hooked up, I’m too scared to keep it at 28ish psi when we tried as it wasn’t making efficient power. Only gained 15kw with 3psi up it’s ass. Iv ordered one now with a few more changes to make sure it doesn’t go boom and everything’s running mint.

Anyways keep us updated man, I’m keen to know how you go, my one hits the dyno in 2 weeks so will be good to compare

Link to comment
Share on other sites

51 minutes ago, Buraz said:

34psi??? Iv got one myself and it’s nowhere near that atm and I’m at about 490kw at 25psi. Have you guys actually started tuning or was it just decided to run 34psi. Hope you have a speed sensor hooked up, I’m too scared to keep it at 28ish psi when we tried as it wasn’t making efficient power. Only gained 15kw with 3psi up it’s ass. Iv ordered one now with a few more changes to make sure it doesn’t go boom and everything’s running mint.

Anyways keep us updated man, I’m keen to know how you go, my one hits the dyno in 2 weeks so will be good to compare

34psi was an educated guess based on how my head performed with the 8374. Speed sensor is hooked up this time so it'll be interesting to see the turbine speed at that boost level.

Update - the car before mine was supposed to be a quick touch up but has turned into a big job so mine hasn't gone on. Rescheduled to tomorrow afternoon.

Edited by usmair
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, MaximuSmurf said:

Very curious to see how your sr20 goes. Det or ve? I've got a 7163 t4 Ts internal gate on full race Mani on my sr20det. So keen to see what your response is like going to a 7670.

What do you use the car for? Assuming you'll be getting around 380rwkw on that setup. 

It's DET.  The head is done by NAPREC with their Tsukuba spec race port. Squish pads are gone too.

I had plans to take the car to the circuit but I think I'll just enjoy it on the street every now and then.

380rwkw is the number I've heard too, but we will cap it at 330rwkw for now.

Will be running 0.7 bar wastegate springs to bring it on progressively....it's a 1200kg car so the biggest challenge will be getting the power to the ground. I'm considering running traction control via the ECU / 4 wheel speed sensors.

The reality is VE can pump serious numbers but power is ALWAYS made at high RPM. It's an NA head and I don't particularly want my bottom end to get pummelled by 9000rpm worth of e-fame every shift.

For a drag car or million dollar time attack car - VE. For a scary fast street / weekend track car - DET will do the job with less RPM and the bottom end will last longer. DONE.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

34psi was an educated guess based on how my head performed with the 8374. Speed sensor is hooked up this time so it'll be interesting to see the turbine speed at that boost level.
Update - the car before mine was supposed to be a quick touch up but has turned into a big job so mine hasn't gone on. Rescheduled to tomorrow afternoon.

Ahhh okay!! I’m keen as to see what you get mate. Best of luck today mate [emoji1377]
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What a beast the 8374 is! Even on an old 1.8L looks like shit gets serious around the 5K zone! 

Id imagine itd be a bit doughy in the lower gears but considering its a 79lb snail it doesn't look too shabby at all! 

 

Plus there is the EFR magic thats not seen on the dyno so it probably drives better than the sheet makes it out to ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would avoid the AWD motor in a RWD using a modified RWD sump and pickup. The way the pick up is positioned, you'll have oil pick up issues on hard acceleration on a track around bends. Even with a baffled, gated sump. I suppose if you don't race on a track and it's used for straight line activities or street use you might be ok.
    • They absolutely are, but the thing is, if you're only exposed to these circuits for a while, what I normally think is good driving suddenly isn't so much. I was a pussy at the Nurburgring (GP) entering corners at 180kph - the difference in the balance of the car suddenly becomes so much more pronounced and I'm still a bit regarded at left-foot braking - something I now practice on my commute. So the (dream) plan with the E90 is to make it a 325i Cup car. Whether I get there or not is another matter. In my mind the simplicity of having the NA variant and cost made it a bit more appealing. Plus, like mentioned above, I'm actually too much of a pussy for big power. Of course I f**ked up by not researching enough on the N53 vs N52, the latter being more robust without the DI system.  Suspension-wise on the BMW, and I've been reading the technical requirements for the 325i cup, basically everything except struts has to be standard - bushes are free. I figure you get about 5-10mm adjustment with the rear camber bolts which should translate to 0.5- 1.5 degrees of adjustment. So with coilovers, lowered at 30/40mm I expect I can dial out some of the camber from a drop and attain -1.5 to -2. If necessary, I could get the same effect as the M3 arms with some offset bushes. There is a limitation on ARB width to qualify, although I absolutely want to get either M3 ARBs (can't say sway incase I upset GTSBoy) or the H&R ones - both of these are the cheapest options. Like mentioned, M3 arms are on the way and I should have them fitted within the next week. How are the BC Racing coilovers btw? Reviews are mixed but I think for me they would be fine; a friend of mine uses them on his R34 for track driving and has nothing bad to say. I'm looking at these or the ST coilovers (German brand, new to me) as prescriped the in Cup spec sheet. They're both similarly priced and offer camber adjustment. It's fine but it really upsets my OCD. I've got a couple of options for dialing out the rear camber and keeping my ill-fitting wheels: raise the rear a little bit, say 5mm, that should permit -2.5 camber or drop the front to restore that slight bias of more negative camber up front (not optimal with the roads here). The next alignment won't be until at least next year and I really need to rebuild the rear subframe. For now, I'm not using it at all on the streets except occasional blasts through the German countryside. I was covering about 10k kms p/year in Japan, I expect this to now be about 3-4k. You could say buy better sized wheels, and yes, I should have. But the wheels came from the Z and price of good wheels is just insane now. Again, a couple of options: get a new set (I want 17" RPF1s) or buy two used 9.5J TEs, both are about the same price excluding shipping. 
    • by rotating the motor i mean to dismount the plate on the motor and mount it different 
    • Sorry I meant to say, Is that $3,500 landed or is that just the sticker price in Japan? 
    • Same (except for the R32 bit), my son is saving for his first car which he hopes will be a Kouki V37 GT with the twin turbo 3.0L V6.... kids these days! My first car was a Renault 16 haha 😄 Sorry for the thread hijack
×
×
  • Create New...