Jump to content
SAU Community

Blown Neo head gasket - Next steps?


V28VX37
 Share

Recommended Posts

Fix yours on the cheap and drive it till it won't drive no more. Probably a long time away.

One ballpark quote came back at 5.5k so 'on the cheap' might not happen... that's with a full reco.

Probably cheaper to replace the whole engine but not keen on having to go to VicRoads to update numbers.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's ridiculous.. Darren Lewis was $1.5k for full reco and basic port and oil restrictors

Is that with labour to pull head off and put it back on, including all parts & new head gasket and studs?

I got a similar price from another shop for a full reco but that's just the reco only, excluding the above.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ask around for a shop or a member who can take the head off - should only be a couple of hour's work. Clean the mating faces and if the block is fine and the head in fine or only a little bit out and the valves look ok then skim the head on a flat surface with sandpaper and bolt it up with new head gasket and studs. It should be perfectly fine for the next 100,000 and cost not a lot.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Is that with labour to pull head off and put it back on, including all parts & new head gasket and studs?

I got a similar price from another shop for a full reco but that's just the reco only, excluding the above.


Nuh sorry mate that was just head work - pulled it off myself.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5.5k is absolutely ridiculous and absurd. What are they rebuilding it with? Gold plated valves and guides. Assuming 1k-1200 for head reco, 5-600 for gaskets and studs. That makes 1800. So are they saying 3700 in labour cost.  Lol. I suggest you get quotes from a different mechanic/workshop and maybe start looking at smaller (not big named places) and specify you don't want head reco unless it is absolutely necessary.

Question, are you willing to get your hands dirty, you could potentially save thousands.

 



option 1. Remove hot and cold sides and have towed to shop. Save $ on labor.



option 2. As above minus tow to shop and try enlist the help of a local SAU member to help you remove the head. Then take it to head shop for inspection/skim $80-100. Clean, re assemble with new gasket and studs.



option 3. Pay the ridiculous 5.5k (I would rather go jump in a lake)



Option 4. Burn it. Lol

 

Where abouts are you located? 



Link to comment
Share on other sites

5.5k is absolutely ridiculous and absurd. What are they rebuilding it with? Gold plated valves and guides. Assuming 1k-1200 for head reco, 5-600 for gaskets and studs. That makes 1800. So are they saying 3700 in labour cost.  Lol. I suggest you get quotes from a different mechanic/workshop and maybe start looking at smaller (not big named places) and specify you don't want head reco unless it is absolutely necessary.
Question, are you willing to get your hands dirty, you could potentially save thousands.
 


option 1. Remove hot and cold sides and have towed to shop. Save $ on labor.


option 2. As above minus tow to shop and try enlist the help of a local SAU member to help you remove the head. Then take it to head shop for inspection/skim $80-100. Clean, re assemble with new gasket and studs.


option 3. Pay the ridiculous 5.5k (I would rather go jump in a lake)


Option 4. Burn it. Lol
 
Where abouts are you located? 



Thanks Bill :)

That was just a ballpark quite from one workshop, I am still waiting on two more. I will most likely take it to my normal place for a more detailed assessment, want to be 100% certain it's the gasket before ripping off the head.

Going to a smaller workshop might be an idea, would need to find a reputable one though and one that is not ridiculously busy. I'm in the inner North near Essendon so north and west tend to work better than south-east.

I am happy to do some of the work myself but will need a full diagnosis first by someone who actually knows what they're doing. I was looking up DIY engine swap instructions last night, now that'd be a fun project for a month ;)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok. Lets see what the other 2 quotes come in at and take it from there. I have a very good local mechanic that I trust and would recommend but is in the south east. If you get no joy from these other guys, I may just call him and get a ballpark figure for you.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For significantly less than the 5k quote you.got im getting a full service. Some porting on the exhaust side. Chemically clean, repair cam tunnel, surface grind, vct feed port drilled, valve Springs installed, then an engine block decked to 0 deck height. Bored, mains closed and honed, crank collar fitted. Crank crack tested and grind. And a few other bits and peices

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yet that's just the machining work on my new motor I'll be building it.
However as a workshop prob around 300ish for the head to be cleaned up, 300ish for a vrs and wouldn't be more than 800 in labour, so yeah anything over 1.5 and your getting seriously ripped

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys.

Second quote is in the 2.5-3k range. The headwork including reco is sub 1k, plus parts. A lot of the cost is still labour so would be substantially cheaper if I pulled it out myself but I do want it done right.

Here's the current plan:

  1. Pressure test oil/water exchanger to rule that out.
  2. Leakdown test to confirm it's the HG.
  3. Pull out head, inspect & measure. Skim and reco only if necessary.
  4. Inspect & measure bottom end. If major issues skip head work and replace engine.
  5. Install head with new HG (I'll see what type they recommend) and new studs. 

Earliest I can book it in is in about a week.

Maybe a cheap my-loss-your-gain well built 25/30 stroker pops up in the classifieds in the meantime lol (as if)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got some decent progress after work yesterday and also today. Got the ECU all wired and passenger side interior all back together. Kept the wiring up nice and high to avoid people standing on it. Got the surge tank relays rewired and tidied up the pump wiring and cut a hole to bring the cables through.  I found a spare USB cable I had lying around so I decided to cut it up and see if I could use it for my CAN 1 bus. Turned out one of the pins I needed was to the shield of the cable so i cut it up and desoldered it and resoldered to the correct pins.  Had the issue with the powersteering hose hitting the A/C compressor and fan shroud. I pulled the bracket off and modified it to remove the front mounting point which now clears it all. Will keep an eye on it to see if theres any signs of fouling once it's up and running.
    • That's some good input mate. Nice.
    • So today I went well outside my comfort zone (again) to replace my valve cover gasket.  I have had a big leak over the exhaust leading to a lot of smoke and smell every time I drove it. The leak was in the rear driver's corner.  The job wasn't hard as such, just a bit finicky and time consuming.  The old gasket was rock hard and broken right where the leak was.  The leaky corner had so much sitting oil in it.  The good news to my amateur eyes was no buildup or sludge under the cover. It all looked fairly nice in there.   I haven't started it yet. I ran out of light and body when putting the coils and injector loom back in. Probs only 30min left for the morning.  I was so nervous putting the cover back on, I must have lifted it 5 times to make sure the gasket was still seated properly. God it's going to be nice to be leak free and not make other traffic light queuers think my car is about to explode.
    • Gave the Mazda it's first wash, it will need some clay, a light compound, and polish polish to remove a few swirl marks, but that will be a job for when I have a full day to get my DA polisher action on
    • Just did this job on my 32 with the boost doc kit. was quite simple to fit, hardest part was getting the rubber bungs back on the firewall. does anyone know how the heater will work now without the flap in the bend? Will I just have a heater on 24/7 now?
×
×
  • Create New...