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do yourself a favour and sift through http://www.my105.com/ and see what is out there.

I think we've all wasted enough breath on threads where the OP has already talked themselves to a solution regardless of what people say.

 

Edit: ok maybe I will say one thing. You damn skyline & S-chassis & evo people have no idea of some of the hassles from owning a car with less than HALF the aftermarket support of your cars. Imagine a world without overnight parts from JustJap, one with less than 4 brands for track pad options, one with no FRP or carbon panel support, postage from Europe, no plug'n'play ECUs, very little information online regarding problems and no local community. count your blessings.

  • Like 2

Just to complete the open wheeler options, Formula Ford and Formula Vee.

S chassis is hard to beat bang for buck, the best $ results I have seen involve cheap aero mods and a good handling and braking package with modest engine power to keep maint and running costs down. Power costs. Investing in good brakes and dampers, eg MCA, will pay off and mainly involves a one off expense. Always resellable too.

  • Like 1

Sounds like my recipe, Was thinking about going 2860 and a proper ECU for a few more kW and safety though... 

T28 BB on 17psi - 198rwkw on 98
Fresh Headgasket with ARP studs.
Z32 AFM.
3" exhaust with decat pipe. 
RX7 460cc Injectors.
Surge Tank Setup - Walbro 400 in tank, Walbro 255 feeding engine. 2L Surge Tank, Aeroflow fittings and hose. 
Greddy FMIC.
R33 Plumb Back BOV.
Pod Filter, Heat Shield and Cold Air Intake.
Catch Can with baffle
Morosso Crankcase Evacuation Kit.
CA18 Exhaust Cam on Intake Side.
Adjustable Cam Gears.
Apexi SAFC V2.
Apexi SITC.
Chipped ECU.
AEM Wideband Air Fuel Sensor and Gauge.
Grex Oil Filter Relocation Kit.
BTR Oil Cooler Thermostat.
JJR Oil Cooler.
Alloy Radiator.
Firmer engine mounts. 

Extreme Clutch
Rebuilt clutch slave, damper removed.
New Nismo clutch pivot.
New ARP flywheel studs.
S15 helical centre with S13 CA crown wheel for better ratio.
Solid diff bushes.
Solid subframe bushes

S15 Front Calipers - Rebuilt.
R33 Rear Calipers.
Ventilated and Slotted Front and Rear Rotors.
Braided Lines.
R32 GT-R Master Cylinder.
R33 Brake Booster.
Super DOT4 Fluid.

Front Strut Brace
ISC Rear Camber Arms
GKTech rear toe Arms
Whiteline 27mm adjustable Front Swaybar
R32 GT-R 25mm Rear Swaybar (might go back to stock I think)
New Endlinks with poly bushes front and rear
BC BR Coilovers
S15 Power Steering Rack and new bushes. 
GKTech High Misalignment tie rod ends.
Nagisaka Auto Roll Centre Adjusters (front).
R32 LCAs with new bushes. 
S15 RLCAs
GKTech solid steering bush. 
Adjustable Castor arms. 
S14 rear subframe, with reinforcement plates mounted high to correct rear roll centre. 

ProFab welded one piece bolt in half cage
Aftermarket Steering Wheel.
D1 Quick Release Hub.
Momo Gear Knob.
Momo Pedals.
Water Temp, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure Guages, Boost Guage.
Velo Podium FRP Fixed Race Seat
Velo Alloy Adjustable Seat Mounts.
Custom Seat Frame, Lowered to clear roof for 6ft driver + helmet
Velo 4 Point Harness.
Semi stripped Interior (no rear seats, roof lining, sound deadener, interior trim pieces etc).
Air Con Removed.


17x9 Volk Emu (Rays) Rims
Federal RS-R 235s all round, going to 255. 
R32 GT-R Grill
Custom Vented Front bar to feed air intake and oil cooler and brakes with Mesh Inserts
Brake duct vents 
Bodykit
Tow strap
Custom front splitter - bunnings
Dry Cell Mounted in Boot with Battery Isolater/Kill Switch cable up front
C-West Twin Blade Adustable rear spoiler and brackets inside the boot to add support
Rear firewall partition. 

All that and I was told market value is 5k... 

  • Like 1

Yes, a good aftermarket ECU and tuner is the way to go. Sounds like you would make better money parting your car out but what would it be replaced with? Oh yes, that's the question isn't it lol.

EDIT Looking at your list you need to spend more money :cool: MCA suspension, StopTech front brake kit with Carbotech XP10 pads all round, Hankook semi slicks.

Edited by 260DET

The tuner of my GTR would handle it, though he wants me to put a sprint in it, which is a 1k ECU and this is a budget car so I thought a nistune would be fine, but he doesn't like them as he has "too many of them come back with issues". He's a Haltech man though so who knows.

I dunno if parting it would net me more $$, the flat cap drifter brigade has ruined second hand prices, plus it takes much more time. I'll just finish the rear end work, get some 255s on it and go out and chop some 300kw Skylines again to make me feel better. 

Yeah. I was part way through a subframe swap when I bought the 34. I had planned to "finish the Silvia off" first but I was watching the 34 market and noticed it shifting. 

Subframe swap is just about done now, only started that like, July last year ;)

 

7 hours ago, ActionDan said:

<snip> Car specs

Seems like a nice piece of kit man. I'd certainly recommend sticking on the power you're on. I've got 270rwkw S15 and I certainly wished I'd just focused on suspension setup and done more track days than worrying about power. Mine is a daily to be fair (only one car). And it makes a fantastic, daily, weekender, drift, and circuit car now. But always more to do. Never quite happy with it now that I've gone 'full retard' and always upgrading something to move that point of failure further along the line.

A solid 'fresh' SR20 should run for ages at that power, your gearbox and clutch are quite safe, heat's not much of an issue. Maybe some aero and you're sorted. I'd focus on doing track days for a few years with the current setup. Maybe look at replacing when something major breaks.

  • Like 2
10 hours ago, ActionDan said:

Sounds like my recipe, Was thinking about going 2860 and a proper ECU for a few more kW and safety though... 

T28 BB on 17psi - 198rwkw on 98
Fresh Headgasket with ARP studs.
Z32 AFM.
3" exhaust with decat pipe. 
RX7 460cc Injectors.
Surge Tank Setup - Walbro 400 in tank, Walbro 255 feeding engine. 2L Surge Tank, Aeroflow fittings and hose. 
Greddy FMIC.
R33 Plumb Back BOV.
Pod Filter, Heat Shield and Cold Air Intake.
Catch Can with baffle
Morosso Crankcase Evacuation Kit.
CA18 Exhaust Cam on Intake Side.
Adjustable Cam Gears.
Apexi SAFC V2.
Apexi SITC.
Chipped ECU.
AEM Wideband Air Fuel Sensor and Gauge.
Grex Oil Filter Relocation Kit.
BTR Oil Cooler Thermostat.
JJR Oil Cooler.
Alloy Radiator.
Firmer engine mounts. 

Extreme Clutch
Rebuilt clutch slave, damper removed.
New Nismo clutch pivot.
New ARP flywheel studs.
S15 helical centre with S13 CA crown wheel for better ratio.
Solid diff bushes.
Solid subframe bushes

S15 Front Calipers - Rebuilt.
R33 Rear Calipers.
Ventilated and Slotted Front and Rear Rotors.
Braided Lines.
R32 GT-R Master Cylinder.
R33 Brake Booster.
Super DOT4 Fluid.

Front Strut Brace
ISC Rear Camber Arms
GKTech rear toe Arms
Whiteline 27mm adjustable Front Swaybar
R32 GT-R 25mm Rear Swaybar (might go back to stock I think)
New Endlinks with poly bushes front and rear
BC BR Coilovers
S15 Power Steering Rack and new bushes. 
GKTech High Misalignment tie rod ends.
Nagisaka Auto Roll Centre Adjusters (front).
R32 LCAs with new bushes. 
S15 RLCAs
GKTech solid steering bush. 
Adjustable Castor arms. 
S14 rear subframe, with reinforcement plates mounted high to correct rear roll centre. 

ProFab welded one piece bolt in half cage
Aftermarket Steering Wheel.
D1 Quick Release Hub.
Momo Gear Knob.
Momo Pedals.
Water Temp, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure Guages, Boost Guage.
Velo Podium FRP Fixed Race Seat
Velo Alloy Adjustable Seat Mounts.
Custom Seat Frame, Lowered to clear roof for 6ft driver + helmet
Velo 4 Point Harness.
Semi stripped Interior (no rear seats, roof lining, sound deadener, interior trim pieces etc).
Air Con Removed.


17x9 Volk Emu (Rays) Rims
Federal RS-R 235s all round, going to 255. 
R32 GT-R Grill
Custom Vented Front bar to feed air intake and oil cooler and brakes with Mesh Inserts
Brake duct vents 
Bodykit
Tow strap
Custom front splitter - bunnings
Dry Cell Mounted in Boot with Battery Isolater/Kill Switch cable up front
C-West Twin Blade Adustable rear spoiler and brackets inside the boot to add support
Rear firewall partition. 

All that and I was told market value is 5k... 

I will buy. now. cyaashh.

 

On ‎15‎/‎11‎/‎2016 at 10:33 AM, GTofuS-T said:

Fair call... other than mx-5 but in the same league (actually not really cause FWD) I'd consider a Hyundai Excel or a Nissan Pulsar, purely because they Excel cup and Pulsar Challenge there's plenty of support for making these cars trackable

At a recent sprint I attended a Hyundai Excel was 0.1 second slower than the fastest (being a Radical)

What a funny read Dan, you sure know how to get some action on SAU. If I was you and wanted a quick race car for not a ton of money, search for a future tourer. It's the ugly cousin of the Aussie race cars. They were built for a one make series that never really took off.

Actually according to GTofuS-T you should just but an Excel,,,1 tenth of a second slower the a Radical,,, should have read 1 tenth of an hour slower !!!.

 

Cheers

Neil.

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