Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 30/03/2018 at 9:16 PM, WantGTR said:

Perhaps do a bypass?

2018-01-13_11-29-17

 

Hmmmm trying to think where I've heard this suggestion before?? 

But apparently it wasn't "a good idea" ?? 

 "Nah a surge tank will be easier"  ???

If she's not setup right all the maths in the world won't help you dude. 

Just listen to Paul f**k ya! His system is PROVEN to work at power levels that far exceed yours and probably his too!

 He basically handed you the formula for a million kw setup but you don't listen? DUUDE FARK!

The recipe ain't cheap..  But do it once! Gunna be cheaper than f**king around redoing shit! Or potentially costing you your motor Yeah?

Piggy has given you a recipe THAT WORKS! FOR FREE! It cost him a fortune and took alot of research and advice from some of the smartest kents in the game to aquire so Why argue? Just do it! 

  • Like 1
7 hours ago, Mick_o said:

Hmmmm trying to think where I've heard this suggestion before?? 

But apparently it wasn't "a good idea" ?? 

 "Nah a surge tank will be easier"  ???

If she's not setup right all the maths in the world won't help you dude. 

Just listen to Paul f**k ya! His system is PROVEN to work at power levels that far exceed yours and probably his too!

 He basically handed you the formula for a million kw setup but you don't listen? DUUDE FARK!

The recipe ain't cheap..  But do it once! Gunna be cheaper than f**king around redoing shit! Or potentially costing you your motor Yeah?

Piggy has given you a recipe THAT WORKS! FOR FREE! It cost him a fortune and took alot of research and advice from some of the smartest kents in the game to aquire so Why argue? Just do it! 

Actually copied the bypass from Goodezilla. 

Piggaz was very helpful too but theres more than one way to skin a cat.

You are right. Fuel systems arent cheap. I was originally going to do pump and injectors... shit blows out i guess

Edited by WantGTR
  • Like 1

It's fine Mick, I'm not copying Paul's set up as I don't intend to run a big lift pump so there's no need to run a bypass on the flex sensor. I'm sure his set up is amazing and he has spent heaps of time and money on it but I don't need a set up of that calibre.

Running a flex sensor between a surge tank and the main tank is fine, it's not pressured and the lift pump would be a DW200 or so, meaning the flex sensor itself won't be any form of restriction between the two.

Yes you can run the flex sensor on the rail return line back to the surge tank with a bypass like Paul but there's no need for my set up.

And yes I've done the maths there's no need for me to have a massive lift, there's no possible road or race track that can drain the 2.5L surge tank with my mediocre power producing RB, don't intend on making anything more than 450kW (nice to have power) but realistically about the 400kW mark is good anything more will be hard to handle on the track.

Johnny, isn’t the whole idea of a surge tank to have it full ALL THE TIME? Not 3/4, half sloppy around tank, empty at the end of the straight then turn into turn one, when you NEED IT!

Why not just run twin intank pumps? Defeated the purpose of a surge tank IMO if it’s not full all the time. ?

walbro 460 lift pump. The surge tank comes with -8 sized threads. Bit silly to go from -8 and pay for a a -8 to -6 adapter. Keep it -8 and put a bigger lift in it. You have 2x 460’s emptying the surge tank.

  • Like 1

Will be fine, DW200 will do 355 L/hour at 0psi so that's 5.92 L/min.

Now I have 1550cc Bosch injectors by 6. At best they would be at 70% DC (I reckon less) so that's 6.5 L/min fuel consumption at max load. 

This means at max load at x rpm I would drain the surge in 54 seconds. 

Now there isn't a road straight and long enough to have the motor running at a fixed rpm at max load for even more than 20 to 30 secs at best. The only time I could see this happening is on the dyno load holding at x rpm and y load for a good minute lol.

I still need a surge tank, I found at Wakefield at times the motor would cut out at the back straight when the car had less than a 1/4 of a tank left. Twin internal pumps won't fix that also I won't have a line to run the flex sensor without needing a bypass.

all this talk about fuel systems

i just went with the don mega piggaz/scotty fuel system and called it a day... DONE. Yeah it's $$ but it's also PEACE OF MIND. I did question scotty if i could get away with a smaller lift pump but was told 'dont do it!!!!'......

~bakemonoricer.

So much cringe. So so much. Jesus christ.

Johnny it's good to see you being realistic with your setup VS your requirements. Why throw thousands of dollars at something when spending 1/3 as much will satisfy your needs. Us gts-t guys realise that we don't need a fuel system to support 800hp.

GTR guys and SR20 fags ^^ sure do love burning cash.

  • Like 4
  • Haha 1
  • Confused 1
8 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

So much cringe. So so much. Jesus christ.

Johnny it's good to see you being realistic with your setup VS your requirements. Why throw thousands of dollars at something when spending 1/3 as much will satisfy your needs. Us gts-t guys realise that we don't need a fuel system to support 800hp.

GTR guys and SR20 fags ^^ sure do love burning cash.

I concur. AI triple pump surge, 10an feed and return. Should be sufficient for your setup.

  • Like 1
I concur. AI triple pump surge, 10an feed and return. Should be sufficient for your setup.
10?!?

If you are going 10 you may as well just go 16. It's only $10/m more. Should be enough to support 2000hp comfortably.
  • Like 3
  • 3 weeks later...

Some updates, after pulling out my flex sensor I've been able to command the injectors to do what I want but when I drop say I set the IPW at 1.5ms or under they still don't like it too much. Probably has to do with the fact they're 1550cc and I'm running a batch fired ECU. 

So solution? I drained the tank and poured in E85 and set the ethanol concentration to 85% when the flex sensor is not detected. Here it is now with 26 degrees of timing on idle, 14.7:1 AFR (gasoline scaling), 1.7ms IPW and idle at 900rpm.

 

  • Like 5
On 4/24/2018 at 8:59 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

For good measure, car went to Mexico for stress testing.

IMG-20180422-WA0006.thumb.jpg.0d32612fc41fc08ad538ea96bce205db.jpg

That's disgusting. Some people think they can do anything on a public road.

Probably in a school zone with mum's with prams.

If I was a cop I would hunt down and throw the book at that total wanker...................

 

 

Parked illegally in the white land cruiser.

  • Like 3
  • Haha 8
  • 2 weeks later...

Fixed up my cold start because it was bothering me, although the ECU will be upgraded and the tune will pretty much useless going to a different brand - but yeah, cold autumn morning and it fires first go now :)

Yes my tacho is fuuarked.

 

  • 4 weeks later...

I am back from 1 month of no SAU and car shit :)

Adaptronic is coming out, and is now for sales. $800 for SAU members $850 for Facebook or Scumtree or eScum

10 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

I don't want to but it, can you just give me the 50 bucks difference?

Or you could buy off me for $800 and hustle $900 or more and pocket the difference.

Buy low, sell high!

2 minutes ago, WantGTR said:

Halaltech time?

Of course!

Can't wait for everyone to tell me it will "lose" tunes and for motors to spin backwards. 

Although I've tuned half a dozen of then and not a single car has issues :)

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...