Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

14 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

This comment has kept me up at night (amongst other reasons).

Funny enough, old GReddy plenum instructions just stated to plumb it into the fitting I had initially chosen.

I was also thinking hard about it as there is no pressure differential under the head gasket.

I ran a hard line across the front of the block and into a 90deg in the bottom of the manifold.

received_875409411296955.thumb.jpeg.073819e334469a6b341d2c11f638d625.jpeg

received_519074130451271.thumb.jpeg.bbe93627b01b86a175c1d04d79db1011.jpeg

I wanted to go straight into the manifold where the elbow to the radiator outlet is, but I couldn't make anything that that was easily removable with the timing belt covers on.

I'm not 100% happy with the turbo end so I'll redo it before the front goes on.

  • Like 1

@fletch rb30 looks good! If my motor wasn't in the car, or the timing belt was off, I would be redoing the hardline to run it in front of the motor like what you've done.

Another idea is to return it back to the thermostats housing, similar to how it's done on the RB26, could that be an option?

In a previous incarnation I ran it round the back and into the thermostat inlet teed into the heater return. It worked fine, but when I turned it off, I could hear it boiling and slugging etc.

I figured it would be good to try and get it towards the radiator and let convection cool it until it was the dame temp as everything else.

I thought rb26 had a nipple on the top hose fitting where both the turbo water returns went. I have seen people delete that with a rd28 outlet and run the turbo outlet straight to the radiator top tank.

  • Like 1

Seems this is common on RB26

images.thumb.jpeg.100211de5d128ce054c77bdc2381ce55.jpeg

However makes more sense on the lower hose as it's cooler and will promote flow

And correction to my previous post about it being the RB26 thermostat, we can see that it's not in this photo 

Now with fluid, 1bar test again. Pretty much below the pressure of a running system anyway, when you think about it, an OEM cap is 0.9bar.

PXL_20240718_231030593.thumb.jpg.feeb44663921ecab50fca192494d7bc0.jpg

15 minutes ago, No Crust Racing said:

Look at mr big shot with his branded pressure tester while I'm over here with my blow mould case ebay job... 

Not mine, borrowed it :)

 

  • Haha 1

If I could turn back time, I would tell my old self to strip the car when the last motor blew and go save for a bit more a M3 instead of blowing money respraying and building a new motor.

Stupid things you do when you're not thinking long term...

I run the turbo water return along the rail and into the tank of the radiator with a -6AN line. My radiator is a dual pass cross flow so it was easy to weld the fitting straight on there.

Also, it's a race car so zero f**ks given about heaters and so on.

In relation to buying an M3/GT3 instead of tipping money into an old shitbox, tell me about it! I do sort of worry that a modern super car would be too perfect so I keep digging a deeper hole with my R32 and stick my head in it!

  • Like 1
52 minutes ago, Komdotkom said:

In relation to buying an M3/GT3 instead of tipping money into an old shitbox, tell me about it! I do sort of worry that a modern super car would be too perfect so I keep digging a deeper hole with my R32 and stick my head in it!

Lol... We are not normal.

If space, and finances weren't an issue, I would love to have both, a M3 and this R33 shit box. But the Matrix does not allow it.

Working from home, means clean filtered water, access to beer and opportunity to refresh the twin water filter in the kitchen.

I keep hearing Australian tap water is clean, good dis dat. Anyhow, these filters are less than 11 months old.

LHS is a 1 micron filter, RHS is a 0.5 micron, ignoring the RHS, the LHS one tells a very different story about how "clean" our tap water is.

PXL_20240722_062912702.thumb.jpg.842778da10c72ebd2fce26ff2ccdccb1.jpg

  • Sad 1

"Clean" as in "low enough counts of coliform bacteria and other gut twisting nasties that you can drink it without fear of shitting your insides out afterwards.

Not necessarily "clean" as in "freshly melted off a virgin glacier that last saw open atmosphere sometime before the mammoths went extinct".

Adelaide has some of the "cleanest" water in Australia. By this I mean that our water traditionally made it to our reservoirs by trickling across cow paddocks and so the old engineers at the E&WS had to learn how to clean it good to make it safe to drink. Doesn't mean that it wasn't nasty tasting, hard as rocks and chock to the brim with chlorine.

By contrast, Sydney had it so good with water that original fell on pristine mountainsides that their water supply engineers never learnt how to scrub water properly and so for years and years there were Giardia outbreaks and the like, that only stopped when some E&WS engineers went across and taught them how to do it.

In some places, like Bunbury in SW WA, the water falls from the sky nearly every day, but still somehow manages to taste like it was filtered through some rusty steel wool. Safe to drink though - just nasty tasting.

  • Like 2
47 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Working from home, means clean filtered water, access to beer and opportunity to refresh the twin water filter in the kitchen.

I keep hearing Australian tap water is clean, good dis dat. Anyhow, these filters are less than 11 months old.

LHS is a 1 micron filter, RHS is a 0.5 micron, ignoring the RHS, the LHS one tells a very different story about how "clean" our tap water is.

PXL_20240722_062912702.thumb.jpg.842778da10c72ebd2fce26ff2ccdccb1.jpg

Yeah, we have a few filters too, the main one is the 4 stage I use for the aquarium water (yes, it gets better water than the people in the house). I'm always shocked when doing my 12 monthly replacements. 

  • Like 1
32 minutes ago, PranK said:

I'm always shocked when doing my 12 monthly replacements. 

I didn't expect it to be this dirty though!

 

57 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

By contrast, Sydney had it so good with water that original fell on pristine mountainsides that their water supply engineers never learnt how to scrub water properly and so for years and years there were Giardia outbreaks and the like, that only stopped when some E&WS engineers went across and taught them how to do it.

That I don't disagree, but it's the dirty and old pipe work it needs to travel though before reaching the tap for consumption.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...