Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What sort of km / tyre life are you guys getting from the Hancook RS-3 ?

 

Also what sort of tyre life expiry should I expect ? eg how many years ? my current tyres are 2009 with plenty of grip as i just don't drive it that often...

Old tyres, never again. When I bought my 180 they came with tyres that had heaps of tread, but were seriously old as f**k. Like I couldn't even find the model number of the Kumho fronts anywhere on the net. 

First time it rained I understeered off a roundabout at normal speeds and was a few cm off smacking some armco. 

Then a couple of days later I was driving only a smidge over the limit and spotted a cop car coming in the opposite direction, I hit the brakes to slow gently and the fronts just locked and I skidded for a good 20 metres right in front of them. No grip at all, even in the dry. Utterly dangerous. 

And AWD isn't going to do shit in either of those situations!

Edited by Skepticism
  • 1 year later...

Both these tyres are getting pricey, but?

I  Have the AD08Rs 265/35x18 on for a few years , they have been great and needed new tyres.  Talking to the boys and they said have a look  at the RS3 or maybe the RS4s

Did a little web checking and the RS4 were getting some good early reviews , so I looked into the prices etc.

The price for the 265/35 AD08Rs were around $390 from the place I bought them originally ( a few years ago they were offered on SAU for $200:(  ), I was thinking of going to the 275 or 285 on my 10" rims as the 265 looked stretched, but my major concern was I was already tramelining on these shitty roads near home and wobbling all over the place even at 60klm ish on the shitty bits and I thought if I went wider it would be worse.

I bit the bullet and went 275/35 X18" RS4 at $340 each , even on the way home I noticed the difference. Went for a run this morning on the same road the 08Rs were moving around and the RS4s were much better. Did a run through some twistiesas best you can and found them very good, road was a little wet at times but seemed OK, they were quieter and a little better ride (N2 used) They seemed a little heavier going into the corner but maybe that was because my 08Rs were lite on tread the last few months and now  I just put new tread on the road??

BUT , I have no idea how they track/hillclimb  , for what it's worth,  I would buy them again!

I've been running RE003 235/45R17 for 2500kms - 373rwkw & 32psi in the tyres and holding second gear perfectly to my surprise. I actually put a spare set of wheels tyres on to see if it was down on power or if it was the tyres. Invos, Michelin PSS and KU36 all didn't bite until 3rd

23 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Yeah, they're good.  I couldn't get them when I wanted them a couple of weeks ago, so chose to try Kumho V720.  Also very good.  Better than the KU36 that they pretty much replace, and at a good price.  We are spolit for choice on such tyres these days.

Had another drive early today, the difference on my road with the RS4s Vs AD08Rs was very noticeable , there is a section uphill that tried to kill me a couple of times and tried send me into the cow paddock with the crappy ruts , hit it up to see how the RS4s felt and no problem :) .

Its nice to be able  to get a little spirited without fighting for your life , LOL

There was never a problem in the twisties with any tyres I had on the car, just on straight line driving when the surface was shit. Highway driving , city driving NO problem

It was embarrassing having some one behind you even in a 60- 80 zone on a shitty straight stretch of road and having to continually adjust the steering to keep it straight , shit , the mighty Tiida is a dream to steer  in comparison but I am a happy camper with the 275 RS4s but missing the adrenaline rush when the car wants to go where it wants to go , LOL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...