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I have to agree with the PWR welds!! My brothers RX7 has a PWR radiator and oil cooler setup and radiator cracks around the welds, it’s been repaired numerous times now . Apparently very common issue with their radiators. Pretty disappointing for like an $800 radiator.

On another note on my Gtr I run a Cooling Pro 100mm Intercooler. Wonder how much that’s restricting my setup. On the dyno after maybe 8 pulls it’ll drop 8-10rwkw but I gotta say the dyno fan was shithouse too


That's crazy for such an expensive item...bloody all show and no go it seems with pwr..even their oil coolers look like they would have terrible flow.

I was reading an old SAU thread this morning about coolers and one guy commented that he changed from a cooling pro to an entry level plazmaman and got good gains, here's a screen shot of that comment IMG_1947.jpg

So given the older protruding tube design, Plazmaman still seems to do well?

I actually ordered my Plazmaman a week ago, but still interesting to read all the discussions.  However I don't consider Plazmaman a "cheap" option, for me at least.  With international shipping a TrustGReddy costs about 2/3 of a Plazmaman, but that's a price I'm willing to pay if it has better quality and performance.

Edited by TXSquirrel
So given the older protruding tube design, Plazmaman still seems to do well? I actually ordered my Plazmaman a week ago, but still interesting to read all the discussions.  However I don't consider Plazmaman a "cheap" option, for me at least.  With international shipping a TrustGReddy costs about 2/3 of a Plazmaman, but that's a price I'm willing to pay if it has better quality and performance. 

 

 I reckon the GReddy cores are on par with anything else that's decent quality from the all the designs and construction methods I've seen anyways haha nothing wrong with the plazmaman either tho so you'll have a win for sure!

 

 

 

I apologise in adavance as these results are on my RB25...

I run an old GReddy Type M 700x300x76mm bar and plate intercooler that looks very similar to the ARE bar and plate cores. I make 355rwkw with 24psi on e85, with 20psi and 235wkw already available at 3700rpm. I haven't measured the IAT but I have a boost gauge plumbed into my runners after the throttles and my eboost2 plumbed into the compressor housing. I can safely say that I have almost zero pressure drop and both gauges measure almost identical psi at the same time throughout the entire rev range. When I do my routine hour long mountain run pushing hard, I like to stop and get out at a certain spot at the top and I always go straight to the front of the car and feel the cooler end tanks and piping, normally I can't hold my hand on the hot side for more than a few seconds as it's pretty darn hot haha but the cold side feels like its got ice blocks inside it and often has a thin wet condensation feel. I'll admit this isn't exactly conclusive data without knowing the IAT but it's a good sign lol

 

 

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Received my Plazmaman a while back, finally got around to take some pictures.  As expected, all the tubes and fins are upside down...  :24_stuck_out_tongue:

6H0mUu5.jpg

ON2bm4E.jpg

I was going to just install it and call it good, but my tuner suggests I should get some before and after data.  Two pulls with factory intercooler, one at wastegate pressure and one with controlled boost pressure, then same pulls after installing Plazmaman.  However weather is terribly hot here right now, so I will probably wait until October or later to do it.  Hopefully I will have some good data to share.

  • Like 1
Received my Plazmaman a while back, finally got around to take some pictures.  As expected, all the tubes and fins are upside down...  :24_stuck_out_tongue:
6H0mUu5.jpg&key=0326c1b9f8a8325731c8ff0ae3c720c582a403dff580ae751ea403e5f9b6e566
ON2bm4E.jpg&key=030669ede6f224f8faccb327e913caf019c79ba0c6928a05106a196a57f02600
I was going to just install it and call it good, but my tuner suggests I should get some before and after data.  Two pulls with factory intercooler, one at wastegate pressure and one with controlled boost pressure, then same pulls after installing Plazmaman.  However weather is terribly hot here right now, so I will probably wait until October or later to do it.  Hopefully I will have some good data to share.



Some before and after data is always a welcome sight [emoji1362]
What's this replacing?
4 hours ago, LaurelPWR said:

Some before and after data is always a welcome sight emoji1362.png
What's this replacing?

Replacing 28 years old factory R32 intercooler.  I will not change any piping or coupler/hose, strictly just the intercooler, so will be good data.  Now I think about it, Plazmaman should share some of the cost!

Edited by TXSquirrel
  • Like 2
Replacing 28 years old factory R32 intercooler.  I will not change any piping or coupler/hose, strictly just the intercooler, so will be good data.  Now I think about it, Plazmaman should share some of the cost!


Shitchyeah that's the kind of data that makes my pants move.
Good luck with it all man, keen to see what happens [emoji1365]
On 6/18/2018 at 10:15 PM, TXSquirrel said:

Received my Plazmaman a while back, finally got around to take some pictures.  As expected, all the tubes and fins are upside down...  :24_stuck_out_tongue:

6H0mUu5.jpg

ON2bm4E.jpg

I was going to just install it and call it good, but my tuner suggests I should get some before and after data.  Two pulls with factory intercooler, one at wastegate pressure and one with controlled boost pressure, then same pulls after installing Plazmaman.  However weather is terribly hot here right now, so I will probably wait until October or later to do it.  Hopefully I will have some good data to share.

Looks great! Where do you place your IAT sensor for fuel correction?

33 minutes ago, etang789 said:

Looks great! Where do you place your IAT sensor for fuel correction?

Mine is R32 and my IAT still sits in its stock location right before the plenum.  I am running Nistune, which does not use IAT as an input anyways.  So I will not be able to offer IAT data, but hopefully I can at least offer my dyno data.

Oh, Nistune (in fact, obviously, the stock ECU) takes the IAT as an input. It just doesn't use it for much in the way of fuelling or timing corrections.  I think it only serves as a super high temperature safe-mode trigger.  I haven't looked into an RB26 bin file to see, but I'd be reasonably sure that you could see the IAT there.

2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Oh, Nistune (in fact, obviously, the stock ECU) takes the IAT as an input. It just doesn't use it for much in the way of fuelling or timing corrections.  I think it only serves as a super high temperature safe-mode trigger.  I haven't looked into an RB26 bin file to see, but I'd be reasonably sure that you could see the IAT there.

My bad, I should have phrase my sentence better.  Yes Nistune reads IAT and I can see it on my laptop, just that it cannot be used as an input to the fuel or timing map.  I don't think it can do safe mode trigger either, obviously I can be wrong but I think that is what EGT for.  I guess Nistune probably could be improved to utilize IAT, but since it uses MAFs already IAT becomes less significant.

The reason it can't really be used for anything super good on the stock ECU is that the IAT sensor on the RB26 is a big, heavy, slow reacting lump of shit, like a coolant temp sensor.  Not suited to timing corrections, etc.  But Nissan put it there for a reason - it's not on any of the other RB engines.  So I must assume that they are using it to enact some sort of protection when it is simply too hot.  Could be nothing more than switching to the knock map.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

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