S13 Sprint/Time Attack Style Build

[Unzipped Composites]

You could give Andy @ Maddog Customs here in Perth a ring and speak to him about building a kit cage that you can then have shipped to you and welded in. I know he was looking at doing this, he hasn't done it yet but he may be open to that. He has atleast built several Silvia cages, so he should have the drawings in his software and be able to do it. 

 

Never know, worth having a chat to him about it.

[No Crust Racing]

Brown Davis sending me bars for under 2k doesn't sound too bad as I have some mate's who are very good welders, but I am likely underestimating the work involved as the do not send then notched just bent.

Anyway, let there be lights!

The hanging lights are over the workshop area and the centre post light is to shine down into engine bays for cars in the hoist spot.

So much cleaning up to do 0_0

Only thing left to wire is the hoist plug, but I'll get the hoist in place first.

 

[No Crust Racing]

Shed company won't tell me because they don't wanna be liable but who can help me work out load limits for that apex brace in my shed?

shed spans 10m and these are the details of columns, apex and knee braces/fixings etc. 

I wanna use a pulley block or a block and tackle etc to help me stand the hoist columns up - which would way 250-300kg each. 

 

 

 

[robbo_rb180]

I used my engine crane to assist with lifting, extended as far out, sling high as possible and was simple would have been easier if I had unpacked it first 🤦‍♂️

[No Crust Racing]

To Stand it?

[robbo_rb180]

9 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

To Stand it?

Yeah, I still had to push it straight upright. 

[No Crust Racing]

I didn't realise the engine crane would go that high?

 

I guess if you tether it at the right point and then push the last bit bit could work

[No Crust Racing]

Whipped around and did some quick cleaning last night, I'll do a proper clean up after hoist is installed prior to moving my shit in. 

Tested all my power points, all OK, tested power to roller door motor, moves around a bit so that's a good start, need to set door limits. 

Started unpacking the hoist, forgot I'd negotiated a oil container also. A bit plasticy but it was free.

Ready to bring the engine crane in and start unbolting the columns from the shipping frame. 

Initial inspection is welds and paint look good.




 

Edited June 7, 2021 by ActionDan

[No Crust Racing]

Shed builder thinks the frame/apex brace could handle one column at a time, but pushing the shed company and their engineer for more info. 

Went through the bits and pieces last night, of course the dynabolts are 18mm and I only have 16, 20, and 24 in masonry bits - Went to Bunnings this Morning and grabbed an 18.  

Brought he engine crane in and had a fiddle with strapping/positioning and got as far as removing the frames and taking the weight of one column but found I had not positioned far enough down the column, they are VERY bottom heavy, so put it back on the frame to reposition and ran out of time. 

I'll head back down in the next few days with some more/better straps also and go from there. 

Also configured the roller door so it's now going up and down nicely. 

[No Crust Racing]

Frame up and have run cables and hose between both columns and mounted the motor. I'm working on safety mechanism now and going through everything and tightening it all up, making final connections, etc. Still need to mount arms, finish the wiring for the pump (circuit and lead in is already there), fill with fluid, tension cables etc.  

My engine crane was indispensable during this process, used it to remove each column from the trailer and then stand each column up - with the help of a mate and strapped to a shed column for extra insurance so it didn't get away from us as we stood it, but honestly I could have done it solo with the engine crane, thanks for the tip Rob. 

10x 18mm holes at 150mm gave my batteries a good work out in the rotary drill and took a little time but got there eventually. Even busted out my toque wrench as per the manual on those. 

I was proud of myself for getting that cross bar up solo, used a combination of the winch and a pulley block then some ratchet straps to go beyond the apex brace to a point where I could just lift it up the final bit at each end. Having that portal frame there was very convenient and the columns clear it perfectly, safety will be below it. The shed was also spec'd to stand without that apex brace so if it's ever a clearance issue I can remove it (note the extra strapping in the hoist bay, plus we went cast in brackets for the frames vs dynabolts). 

I took an extra long time to level and square the columns before I started drilling, marked the plates on the floor, drilled, checked, drilled again etc so to have the cross bar pop in nicely, and everything torque up easily and stay level and square was very satisfying - my poor mates were getting more updates than they would have liked in our group chat lol 

I'm looking forward to having this done so I can get stuck in to moving in, get my pot belly in etc.

Also check out this baller tool box I picked up on Facebook for $150. Pretty happy with that. 

 

[Duncan]

good work getting it all sorted yourself!

[No Crust Racing]

We don't know it works yet, but cheers

[No Crust Racing]

Tada!

 

[robbo_rb180]

nice, did it drive on there?

[No Crust Racing]

As in did I drive it into the shed?

Yes, it still runs, but boy is the underside a mess of leaks 0_0

 

 

[robbo_rb180]

A few cans of brake clean and tubes of rtv be all good again 😁

[No Crust Racing]

Pressure wash it when it's out of the car and leave the leaks for new owner to discover? 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

A true Nissan needs oil leaks of some sort.

[No Crust Racing]

Interesting comments from the engine builder yesterday, thoughts? 



 

[admS15]

Have heard that about titanium retainers on sr's. Pretty sure there was a few threads on NS back in the day