Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Or do what the Japs did, run dual plenums, dual ICs.

That should help reduce the turbos "fighting" each other.

It's just like when you see two cocks in one box.. doesn't work too well, you need one in the pink and the other in the stink so noone is fighting for it.

My stance has been 1x hole 1x goal, ie single turbo!

IMG-20171013-WA0020.jpg.177c92320d571aec3b85d321b8c48607.jpg

  • Haha 1

I have no idea what those numbers mean.

The path ot successfully running twins has been shown numerous times. 

 

Have a sensible power goal, mild cams at the most, Twin Turbo pipe divider mod, good dumps/front pipe combo and don't use -5s if you value response. 

-9s with all of those bits will get you a healthy figure for the street. 

If you need the better high end power of -5s on a 2.6L and still want response, put a twin scroll single on it. 

What is your power goal?

Was going to say i get more boost sooner with my EFR but its got .2L and 260x11 cams behind it.


Glad i didnt install these on mine now. Will be interested seeing how old mate whos got them goes using the stock port shrouded front covers.

Bet ya glad ya listened now Pete? Twins in the bin single for the win ?

Wouldn't matter what cams or capacity the EFR still woulda knocked the snot out of those frankenfart twins.

At ANY power level! 

Edited by Mick_o
On 22.10.2017 at 5:29 AM, Roy said:

So what turbine is your rebuilt turbos running? Still the 2510 turbine or full GTX2863 core in HKS housings?

full GTX2860 core in HKS housings

If you're serious then you're going to need a very good single turbo, like an EFR, with proper twin scroll setup.

The only way you're getting that goal with twins is with a huge displacement increase.

The single turbo swap will be cheaper.

You're also going to want a few other mods so it can live for more than a few Dyno runs.

On 20.10.2017 at 12:07 AM, ActionDan said:

Have a sensible power goal, mild cams at the most, Twin Turbo pipe divider mod, good dumps/front pipe combo and don't use -5s if you value response. 

-9s with all of those bits will get you a healthy figure for the street. 

If you need the better high end power of -5s on a 2.6L and still want response, put a twin scroll single on it. 

When are -5s spooling? Can I get 600whp from them?

Edited by frakzz
11 hours ago, Piggaz said:

Is there a reason why you need to stay twins? Personal reason? Law enforcement? Because that's how Nissan wanted it? GTR's "must" have twins?

he was like Paul Version 1.0, twins, lag was life. Paul Version 2.0 is about usable power, better heat management and less homosexuality.

  • Like 1
21 hours ago, Piggaz said:

Is there a reason why you need to stay twins? Personal reason? Law enforcement? Because that's how Nissan wanted it? GTR's "must" have twins?

made a lot of things to make it convenient to service turbines

5b25e3e15e79t.jpg

Edited by frakzz

5s are f**ken shit! So are journal bearing turbos.

As above 8374 is an absolute beast of a turbo! 

If you want good power and response forget the twins! 

If you need the stock look so you dont get busted sure stay twins. But thats the ONLY reason to keep them!

21 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

A journal bearing twin scroll single turbo, I would dare say would perform better than a set of twins that produce like for like power output.

100% ?

Will only suck a dick between gears not everywhere like the 5s do!

Edited by Mick_o

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...