Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

4 hours ago, fatz said:

Should also say in America where all the epic numbers come from their ponies are smaller than the rest of the world so this may also lead to disappointment cause it didn't make 400kw

The fat man is correct. 

Here is 1 American hp

Screenshot_20171111-134807.jpg

  • Like 5
  • 3 months later...
36 minutes ago, MattSR said:

What brand of trigger disc is that?

This particular one is just made here locally in NZ - just as a cheaper alternative to the ross ones you usually see. CNC'd disc and a bosch sensor. $380.

  • 5 weeks later...
1 hour ago, Komdotkom said:

Any news on this? I'm keen to hear if you have managed to pick up any hidden hp with the altered trigger.

I'm still hoping that there's a way to get the IWG EFR's to make decent numbers.

Car is just about to be painted following on from some rust repairs, will be tuned on E85 after I get a bigger fuel pump in there. I should have something within the month provided the tuner is available.

The IWG didn't cause any problems for me apart from the actuator bolts on the arm coming loose.. the boost control was fine there. Will likely be getting a harder spring too before the tune. Will be good to see what happens when we can add more timing down low and see how aggressive it can really come on!

 

Sorry for the lack of updates!

  • Like 2
  • 8 months later...

Updated results, still 98octane with the updated cam trigger.

Skinny red trace: Old tune low boost

Skinny green trace: Old tune high boost

Solid green trace: New tune low boost (10.5psi)

Solid red trace: New tune high boost (21.5psi)

ECU onboard MAP sensor is limiting boost.

 

 

IMG_20181211_172251.jpg

Edited by Dievos
  • Like 4

So that means? Am I guessing right that 75% of the improvement is fuel as E85 masks the high back pressure and any inefficiency in the setup and just gets busy making numbers? Then may the tune with more accurate ignition?

I know my old setup loved going to E85 as it simply allowed more boost and ignition everywhere over 98 when the thing just became too prone to detonation. E85 seems to make inefficient air pumps work a load better. 

Looks a far better result and imagine drives like a different beast

20 hours ago, Roy said:

So that means? Am I guessing right that 75% of the improvement is fuel as E85 masks the high back pressure and any inefficiency in the setup and just gets busy making numbers? Then may the tune with more accurate ignition?

I know my old setup loved going to E85 as it simply allowed more boost and ignition everywhere over 98 when the thing just became too prone to detonation. E85 seems to make inefficient air pumps work a load better. 

Looks a far better result and imagine drives like a different beast

What it means is that the car does not have any issues continuing to make more power at high rpm - this set up made as much as 368kwatw with power actually wanting to increase but was out of the knock threshold for 98 and we couldn't try more boost as the ECU MAP sensor was maxed. Boost control does not spike when it reaches full boost and the control tables are still quite basic.

Edited by Dievos
  • Like 1
On ‎12‎/‎14‎/‎2018 at 1:12 PM, Dievos said:

What it means is that the car does not have any issues continuing to make more power at high rpm - this set up made as much as 368kwatw with power actually wanting to increase but was out of the knock threshold for 98 and we couldn't try more boost as the ECU MAP sensor was maxed. Boost control does not spike when it reaches full boost and the control tables are still quite basic.

So more accurate ignition control paid huge dividends.  That's great news.

98 fuel is the current limiting factor, and to run more boost you will need to pull timing to keep it together?

Mid range torque looks like it should pull hard off corners with awd traction capability.  Very good - must be very satisfying to drive.  

Wonder why torque drops so noticeably around 62-6400?  Very similar trait to RB25. Be interesting to see what EMAP looks like

On 12/16/2018 at 10:31 AM, fatz said:

this Australia or nz cause that’s mythical power on 98?

Power sounds right, it's on a hub dyno. Put some wheels on it and drop it onto a Mainline and probably read about 15 to 20kW less. 

Put it onto a Dyno Dynamics and it will read more power (especially if the ambient temp sensor is disconnected or left near a heat source lol). 

  • 8 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...