Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep power fc

 

its currently on stock afm although I have a r35 gtr afm ready to fit. Will need tuned again then 

it currently makes about 1.3 bar but tails off fairly early, I know that's fairly expected but is there anything I can do to help that ? If I run higher boost will it hold it better to red line?

Edited by Eager

No.

It might make more mid range hp, then taper off.

Effectively make it feel like a tractor to drive.

Look at the comment in Robo's thread from 13 years ago.  That setup was at about 0.9 bar, 220rwkW.

If you want more hp, bolt on a bigger turbo that can pass more air.

  • Thanks 1
On 10/25/2017 at 7:39 AM, Eager said:

I know they are not the best match

I think they're a great turbo for a street setup as long as you only want 220 - 240KW, although obviously getting old now.

I just had mine tuned by Anthony ( @Guilt-Toy) and it makes 234KW.

On 10/28/2017 at 5:22 PM, Eager said:

it currently makes about 1.3 bar but tails off fairly early, I know that's fairly expected but is there anything I can do to help that ? If I run higher boost will it hold it better to red line?

Mine tails off also, and it's running only 13PSI up near redline - it's not a big turbo after all, and would be running out of flow at high RPM

On 10/28/2017 at 7:00 PM, Dale FZ1 said:

Effectively make it feel like a tractor to drive.

lol, I picked up my car from Newcastle on Saturday and drove to a mates place in Kyogle. On Sunday morning we did some tractor work on his tree plantation - the Skyline feels substantially different to my mates tractor :)

IMG_0773.thumb.JPG.edcd10ddc8944cb463249e04d42d0932.JPG

 

On 10/28/2017 at 7:00 PM, Dale FZ1 said:

If you want more hp, bolt on a bigger turbo that can pass more air.

I completely agree with this :thumbsup:

cheers

Mike

  • Like 1
On 10/25/2017 at 8:32 AM, Torques said:

 

Hi Torques,

Thanks for posting that - a bit of history there.

From Robo's 2004 post:

"Down low it is virtually eye for eye with the stock turbo, above 5000rpm is where it improves. But, when running 17psi in earlier testing, midrange before 4500rpm was pulling like a train. At 100k in 4th, you could just boot it and it would take off, nice!!"...

My actuator is opening too soon, so the 2530 on my car is laggier than stock - but once the boost kicks in around 3500 - 4000 rpm it pulls very hard.

I'm sure there's a bunch of modern turbos that perform way better than the 2530, both faster spool up and higher flow, but for an old turbo, where streetable power up to around 230kw is sufficient, they work great - mine brings a smile to my face every time I hop in the car.

cheers,

Mike

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

You've probably got to get a firm idea of what you're trying to achieve.  And at what cost/effort.

What are you trying to achieve?

 

There's nothing inherently wrong with the 2530, BTW.  It just has limitations, same as any other turbo.

https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/turbochargers/gtx2867r-gen-ii

You could use a GTX2867 supercore and install your existing turbine housing onto that.  Relatively simple changeover, and it should make a bit more hp with broadly similar (but different) response characteristics.  Not a worthwhile change IMO, on a $$/hp basis. Unless the 2530 looks like it's on its last legs.

 

Home-cooked hybrid spec turbo just isn't worth it either, when there are plenty of tested/proven combinations for RB25 out there

 

My long term goal is 6boost,plazmaman,gtx3071 or 3076 gen2 type spec

but that’s a while away so something that bolts on for now that gives more than the 2530, the boost tails off fairly early on it I find leaving you feeling a bit underwhelmed as that’s the joy of rb25 for me, pulling power right to high revs 

  • Like 1

Hypergear highflowed stock turbo will give you a bit more and will hold boost better up top and is direct bolt on. Power does tail off around 6500rpm but can make around 250-260rwkw and costs around $900 which you will be able to get a fair bit back on when you decide to do your desired setup and sell it off. Only negative thing about it is its journal bearing. Still works good. I have one, made 260kw on 98 and 312 on e85.

 

 

  • Thanks 1
2 hours ago, Eager said:

My long term goal is 6boost,plazmaman,gtx3071 or 3076 gen2 type spec

but that’s a while away so something that bolts on for now that gives more than the 2530, the boost tails off fairly early on it I find leaving you feeling a bit underwhelmed as that’s the joy of rb25 for me, pulling power right to high revs 

Understood :)

 

Unless you get something that has a fair bit of increased turbine capacity, it will tail off somewhere around 6-6500rpm.

I may know of something suitable as a stop gap. 

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...