Jump to content
SAU Community

Will my Nistune be up to the task? (R32 GTR)

mr_rbman

By mr_rbman,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
Posted

So I currently have an R32 GTR making 310rwkw's @ 18-20psi (98ron) with a Nistune ECU.

For my next stage of modifications I'm looking to get into the high 300rwkws bracket but was hoping to keep my Nistune.

In speaking to my tuner he's sceptical that it will be up to the task, I understand that a Haltech or Link etc. will do the job better/easier but I would've thought the Nistune would still be up to the task?!?

Current mods and mods to undertake:

  • Garrett -7 turbos (rebuilding to -9 spec)
  • Nistune ECU (hoping to keep)
  • Nismo AFMS (hoping to keep)
  • stock airbox (hoping to keep)
  • 660cc injectors (upgrading to 1250cc)
  • Blitz DSBC (hoping to keep)
  • 98ron (upgrading to E85)
  • stock head gasket (upgrading to metal)
  • stock head studs (upgrading to ARP 2000)
  • stock cooler (upgrading to Plazmaman)
  • stock cams (upgrading to Kelford)
  • stock valve springs (upgrading to BC)
  • Walbro 460 (hoping to keep)
  • Extreme HD clutch (upgrading to Nismo twin plate)

…and yes before anyone chimes in I do realise this could be achieved quite easily with a nice single turbo ;)

 

IMG_7902.JPG

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

The ECU won't be the problem here. The only problem would be whether the AFM's run out of flow.

Given I've literally never read a scenario where someone running -9's has a problem with AFM's running out of flow you will be entirely fine.

The Nistune can do full flex now, as well as run E85 so don't let that one get in the way either if you want to head down that path.

  • Like 1
mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
  • Author
Posted
4 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

The ECU won't be the problem here. The only problem would be whether the AFM's run out of flow.

Given I've literally never read a scenario where someone running -9's has a problem with AFM's running out of flow you will be entirely fine.

The Nistune can do full flex now, as well as run E85 so don't let that one get in the way either if you want to head down that path.

Exactly what my thought process was going into this......

Cheers!

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Yuh.  So long as the pulse width and spark can be controlled, there's no reason to not use Nistune.  By the way, that "so long as" condition is entirely rhetorical.  Of course it can.

The limitations starts to come down to things like the CAS, more than the ECU or even the AFMs.  You can upgrade the AFMs easily enough.  But you can't use a better crank trigger against the Nistune.  It would be good for Matt to make a feature pack that allows the ECU to use simpler and more robust trigger patterns though.

  • Like 3
mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
  • Author
Posted
13 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yuh.  So long as the pulse width and spark can be controlled, there's no reason to not use Nistune.  By the way, that "so long as" condition is entirely rhetorical.  Of course it can.

The limitations starts to come down to things like the CAS, more than the ECU or even the AFMs.  You can upgrade the AFMs easily enough.  But you can't use a better crank trigger against the Nistune.  It would be good for Matt to make a feature pack that allows the ECU to use simpler and more robust trigger patterns though.

Makes plenty of sense to me..... ?

Robzilla32 Mentor

Robzilla32

Posted
Posted

Very interested in the outcome as your before / after have similarities with my current setup and what I intend on upgrading to.

Isn't high 300s optimistic for -9s though? I thought that 350ish was typical for -9s.

You haven't mentioned the exhaust setup but I assume that you have a high flowing large diameter zorst?

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
27 minutes ago, Robzilla32 said:

Very interested in the outcome as your before / after have similarities with my current setup and what I intend on upgrading to.

Isn't high 300s optimistic for -9s though? I thought that 350ish was typical for -9s.

You haven't mentioned the exhaust setup but I assume that you have a high flowing large diameter zorst?

Hey Rob,

I too thought this initially was probably a little optimistic but I'm basing my build roughly of what ActionDan achieved and from memory he netted around 380rwkws...

Remember this will be E85 and aftermarket cams/valve springs...

My issue is going to be more along the lines of my intake side of things I reckon, I want to retain the standard airbox, intake piping, Nismo AFM's etc... Basically pop the bonnet and it look standard to the untrained eye...

and yes I have a full 3.5" custom exhaust setup...

IMG_4670.JPG

IMG_4671.JPG

Edited by mr_rbman
  • Like 1
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
5 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:

Nismo AFM = Z32 guts in standard AFM body IIRC

Not quite.  It's supposed to be 65mm body (same as normal RB26) but with flow vs. voltage curve that is same as Z32.  So the internals aren't "the same as" Z32, because that wouldn't work.  But the combo of the small body and the sensor calibration makes them "look like" a Z32 to an ECU.

  • Like 2
Robzilla32 Mentor

Robzilla32

Posted
Posted

Nice zorst!

I had a good look at ActionDan's build and asked a few follow up questions as he had attained some good numbers all right.

I will be looking at similar mods: Kelford Cams, HPI dumps, custom exhaust, bigger injectors, Plazmaman cooler, AC Delco coilpacks etc. But like you, trying to retain the stock engine bay look with factory airbox / snorkel, piping, Nismo AFMs etc.

Will see how it all goes. I have 308KW at the moment which was fine when the original build was done as the drivetrain was ancient but I now have a brand new gearbox / clutch, recoed tailshaft and the diffs are next so happy to have a bit more torque.

TXSquirrel Community Regular

TXSquirrel

Posted
Posted

I have similar set up as yours and also getting about ~300rwkw on 17psi with 93 AKI (not sure what that is in RON), so I'm interested to see your new results.

I'm confident Nistune won't be an issue for you, and my tuner had done plenty of +400kw Z32s on Nistune with stock Z32 AFMs so I'm sure your other hardware is up to the task as well.

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted
On 7/6/2018 at 4:53 PM, GTSBoy said:

Not quite.  It's supposed to be 65mm body (same as normal RB26) but with flow vs. voltage curve that is same as Z32.  So the internals aren't "the same as" Z32, because that wouldn't work.  But the combo of the small body and the sensor calibration makes them "look like" a Z32 to an ECU.

Ah right, I read about them a long time ago, guess time degrades memory.

Also I believe MINE's made basically the same thing.

GT-R David Enthusiast

GT-R David

Posted
Posted
Ah right, I read about them a long time ago, guess time degrades memory.

Also I believe MINE's made basically the same thing.

 

MINE's made the same thing, but with RB25 AFM internals in stock RB26 65mm housing.

 

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 7/10/2018 at 7:17 PM, BakemonoRicer said:

Spending all that extra money you are nuts to retain twins.

Those things were in fashion last century

Seriously, go an EFR! Those things are magic and you wont be wasting your money doing things twice!!

Refer to last line of original post.... ;)

surprised it actually took 16 odd posts for it to be mentioned :-P

  • Haha 1
  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...