Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Haven't got a car to look at just now but I think you need to pull up the plate at the bottom of the door and pull the door rubber back to remove the trim to get at the ecu and there are a total of 2 or 3 I think nuts to remove. Then undo the 10mm bolt in the middle of the plug and pull the plug out and then remove the ecu.

33 minutes ago, kimbod said:

That looks like someone has done that so it can't be removed.

Yup.  Looks like the nuts have been ground down in some weird arsed way.  Your best approach would be brute force and violence.

13 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

why would you want a PowerFC in a GT-R, get something modern/better

I'm with him.  PFC is a f**king terrible idea in 2018.  Was a terrible idea in 2008!

I did this job in my 34R, yours has been modified incorrectly - As those should be 10mm bolts. 

You will need to brute force those pop rivets/shear bolts? as gently as you can to not damage the underlying bracket. 

As mentioned, it would be much better to use something newer. I had decent results with Haltech plug in, but there's lots of options. Ideally something that removes the AFMs if possible. 

If that's not an option, choose your tuner carefully as PFC+AFM has been known to result in various drivability issues. Ideally only use it for lower power goal.

Good luck.

 

 

There’s a few ways to get them out,

you can cut a slit through the middle and use a screw driver,

you can file 2 flats either side of the head and use vice grips to turn them 

or you can use a center punch and hammer to turn them 

1 hour ago, r32-25t said:

There’s a few ways to get them out,

you can cut a slit through the middle and use a screw driver,

you can file 2 flats either side of the head and use vice grips to turn them 

or you can use a center punch and hammer to turn them 

18V angle grinder and just remove the bits that annoy you!

4 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

why would you want a PowerFC in a GT-R, get something modern/better

just wanted something cheap to try stop it from running ridiculously rich on 98... currently get maybe 185ks out of a tank

 

3 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

Car is no good if the ECU can't be taken out, will give you $20k for it as is.

ahaha two hours ago when i was still struggling to get it out i would have accepted that 

1 hour ago, ActionDan said:

I did this job in my 34R, yours has been modified incorrectly - As those should be 10mm bolts. 

You will need to brute force those pop rivets/shear bolts? as gently as you can to not damage the underlying bracket. 

As mentioned, it would be much better to use something newer. I had decent results with Haltech plug in, but there's lots of options. Ideally something that removes the AFMs if possible. 

If that's not an option, choose your tuner carefully as PFC+AFM has been known to result in various drivability issues. Ideally only use it for lower power goal.

Good luck.

 

 

i live in perth any recommendations for a good tuner? i don't really have a power goal in mind i just want it to run smoothly on 98 and reduce the black soot on my poor white car

 

1 hour ago, r32-25t said:

There’s a few ways to get them out,

you can cut a slit through the middle and use a screw driver,

you can file 2 flats either side of the head and use vice grips to turn them 

or you can use a center punch and hammer to turn them 

Vice grips were the way to go, could slit it wide enough to crack the loctite

10 minutes ago, amrithd27 said:

just wanted something cheap to try stop it from running ridiculously rich on 98... currently get maybe 185ks out of a tank 

Sounds like a problem that could be either:

  • Faulty AFMs
  • Wrong Injectors installed
  • Stock O2s are rooted

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...