Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, so i couldnt find the answers i was looking for so im making this so myself and anyone else who has the same question can get some answers.

 

big single or twin turbo for my rb25.

 

its sinting in an s2 r33 gtst has some was running around 330kw but that was a while ago n as i was only 17 at the tine my parents had it toned down in the form of dropping it to 10psi boost putting the stock tune back and replacing the intake manifold to stock unit i think thats all but not sure.

 

regardless im doing it up again n am looking for pros and cons to what turbo set up to use.

 

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475726-rb25-turbo-advise/
Share on other sites

You searched and couldn't figure out of single or twins are better? I find that hard to believe.

Any way, the more the better, why stop at 2? 3 would be sweet. Imagine the looks on peoples faces when you tell them.




Any way, the more the better, why stop at 2? 3 would be sweet. Imagine the looks on peoples faces when you tell them.


I agree but why stop at 3? I reckon stick rb26 individual throttles on fed by 6 individual turbos. That would be sex.
1 hour ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Video does not offer any insights into the six turbo option..... please keep posts on topic.

 

Just because it is the poor blokes first post: The answer to your question is single.

 

Now, by all means, carry on pisstaking.

  • Like 3

I have a Hypergear ATR45SAT with the optioned Ceramic Ball Bearing Centre and 3" V-Band rear housing for sale if you want.

Would make 400kW+ with the right bolt ons, $1000 and I'll throw in a 4" stainless steel intake pipe & pod filter.

12 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I have a Hypergear ATR45SAT with the optioned Ceramic Ball Bearing Centre and 3" V-Band rear housing for sale if you want.

Would make 400kW+ with the right bolt ons, $1000 and I'll throw in a 4" stainless steel intake pipe & pod filter.

What bolt ons would that need to make 400kw mate?

1 hour ago, Griffin said:

What bolt ons would that need to make 400kw mate?

All of them?

Full exhaust
Front mount
Fuel system - injectors, rail, reg, fuel pump, etc
ECU - flex sensor & wideband (you'll probably want fuel pressure, air temp, oil temp, oil pressure as well for engine protection etc)
Dyno tuning costs
Labor costs for above as I'm guessing you'll be paying to have it all done

So only another $10,000 or so on top really lol

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...