Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I was wondering what the ideal way to route the turbo oil feed line is? 

The line that Tao supplied is so long it makes me think there is a particular reason for the length. 

I can only really think of 2 options, but both end up with a lot of excess line. I've attached a picture to show my thoughts. The squiggly lines aren't to scale but you get the idea lol

Oil feed routing.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480702-oil-feed-line-routing/
Share on other sites

Ok, so taking on board everything said above - I've ended up with this. 

I'm thinking where the factory water bracket was, I can get a bracket made up to support the flexible oil and water lines that will run through there. 

20200702_214551.jpg

20200702_214728.jpg

20200702_214742.jpg

10 hours ago, dyl33 said:

I would of ran it like the red diagram, not next to the dump pipe.

And maybe use some heat proof sleeve over it too.

I think your right. 3rd times the charm!

Originally I was worried about it getting too close to the oil drain line, but the bit it's near is metal. 

Edited by Murray_Calavera

Also, would you not flip the hose around so the 90 degree is off the turbo and it's a nice gentle arch all the way to the fitting on the block?

Here's what I did before with my ex Hypergear ATR45SAT (great turbo, just got carried away with the TS route then replaced it before I tuned it).

20171119_150015_HDR.thumb.jpg.0506f2e3ff835819acf655c1d903a7ad.jpgT03.jpg.ed1381f835801c63ecc97bced93b478d.jpgIMG_20181201_092528.thumb.jpg.c26cf4943da6b4d8b27fdbf002da45ea.jpg

2 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

I think your right. 3rd times the charm!

Originally I was worried about it getting too close to the oil drain line, but the bit it's near is metal. 

It can touch the oil drain line, exhaust not so much!

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Also, would you not flip the hose around so the 90 degree is off the turbo and it's a nice gentle arch all the way to the fitting on the block?

Here's what I did before with my ex Hypergear ATR45SAT (great turbo, just got carried away with the TS route then replaced it before I tuned it).

 

Yep, I've flipped it around and put the heat shielding stuff on it too. I'll get a photo up a bit later.

just putting it oot there...you can also just buy an AN4 stainless end and cut to a suitable length, get rid of the excess. Tao just prob does it that way to avoid emails of ' the line supplied is too short!" so makes it plenty long.

  • Like 2
2 hours ago, hardsteppa said:

just putting it oot there...you can also just buy an AN4 stainless end and cut to a suitable length, get rid of the excess. Tao just prob does it that way to avoid emails of ' the line supplied is too short!" so makes it plenty long.

I wish I could have come up with this myself... especially as I made up that water line =/

Could have got the proper size heat shielding too rather then putting -6 shielding on it to clear  the fittings...

  • 6 months later...

 

On 03/07/2020 at 10:02 PM, Murray_Calavera said:

especially as I made up that water line =/

Your new water return line, did you connect it to behind the head or did you cut the hard pipe and attach it there?

EDIT:  Hang on, how does the water line to your turbo work? 

Edited by Tobz
15 hours ago, Tobz said:

 

Your new water return line, did you connect it to behind the head or did you cut the hard pipe and attach it there?

EDIT:  Hang on, how does the water line to your turbo work? 

Hey mate, I'm pretty sure I used the factory water line for the one your describing. 

The water line I made up goes from the turbo to the block and you can see it in the above photos.

Let me know if there was something in particular you need more details on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
    • The stock manifold is "mostly" divided. The divider actually has a notch cut out of it where it would meet the divider on a twin scroll housing. I have no idea why. But whatever the reason, it would cause some cross talk when used with a twin scroll housing. People do put twin scroll housings onto that manifold. But I'm of the opinion that proper twin scroll internal gating is...not really possible at this scale. You'd be throwing good effort (ie $$) after bad, when you really should be doing something else. Notwithstanding that.... I am not sure what the idea that you are floating has to do with the difference in comp cover position caused by the highflow using a shorter length core than the stock Hitachi one. Can you clarify what you meant?
    • Majority of regulars are > 30. We all act at least 50. Definitely not friendly as we're all grumpy. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...