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Hi All

I've had my R34 GTT since 2004. Slowly been building to start track days and did 3 last year. I have DBA 4000 with good race pads / fluid and they have done a good job. I have searched and so many options and often very expensive ! im looking to spend up to $2500 for a set of fronts, is this realistic and what are proven/accessible/rebuildable ?

Thanks for your reply

NIZ34

Edited by NIZ34

I've been running K Sport brakes on my R33 GTsT track car now for the last 9 years and believe the best value for money brake package you can find. I run 330mm front rotors with 8 pot calipers. Their pads are excellent also. Car runs 1.07's at Wakefield Park. I have nothing but good things to say about this package.

Thank you all. Duncan, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience, I have really appreciated reading your posts over the years ? ATTKD - do a 6 large piston or 8. 8 seems overkill.  Im 18" rims so should will probably go for the 6 large with 356 discs.  Any advice? 

Edited by NIZ34

Under 18s I'd be running the 256 because the price difference over 330 is negligible, and I'd use the 6 piston over 8 because the 8 piston have the same total piston volume but 6/8ths less things to wear or get stuck.....the caliper these were copied from (AP) was a 6 piston

15 hours ago, NIZ34 said:

Thank you all. Duncan, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience, I have really appreciated reading your posts over the years ? ATTKD - do a 6 large piston or 8. 8 seems overkill.  Im 18" rims so should will probably go for the 6 large with 356 discs.  Any advice? 

I have an attakd 356 kit.

If I had my time again I would not buy this, and want to upgrade to the HSV/CTSV 6 pot kit which has a much larger pad, and calipers can be bought brand new for the $2k mark. Benefit from OEM Pad options and OEM disc sizes.

Just keep in mind if you do go the attakd kit you want the full pad depth pads, have been burned a few times by getting 'compatible' pads which do fit, but also don't fit. It is mildly annoying, but if you get the right pad, right compound AND UPDATE YOUR BMC it will definitely do the job.

Also whatever you do, do not attempt to use the default pads for the track, they are hilariously bad. Unsure on how the "red" ones go.

There is another option, but its a lot of work. 

You can source a set of Evo5-9 front Brembos, a set of Evo X front discs & Alpha Omega Racing Brackets and Lines.

Gets a you a fairly common pad compound (the pad is used on a lot of brembo calipers) and large 350mm discs that are common as its off an Evo X. 

About $545 for the brackets and lines from Alpha Omega

$200 for front rotors ($500 for 2 piece Attkd rotors)

$4-500 for the front calipers from a wrecker or eBay (+100 if you need to rebuild the calipers yourself)

$100-500 on pads (obviously depends on what you want)

I also would recommend a BMC upgrade

 

I've done the front and rears using this and they have been really good for me on the track, I'm using Ferrodo DS Uno for the front on the track and DS2500's for the street and just Intima SR pads on the rear

Edited by Tobz
  • Like 1
  • 5 months later...
2 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

Where are you getting $200 EVO X front rotors? and Evo brembos are about $1000 a pair i have found also

 

Alpha Omega supply Evo Brembos for $880, which is expensive. Youre really paying for the convenience of not having to look for them. But if you look, you'll find them much cheaper. I paid $500 for mine. Rebuilt them for $80. 

 

$200 might be each rotor. Cheapest I found for a pair was Bremaxx for $329. Full China, obviously. I bought some just to tide me over, but am nervous about running them on the track. Will likely get some Attkd 2-piece rotors when I eventually get the car together. 

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

Where are you getting $200 EVO X front rotors? and Evo brembos are about $1000 a pair i have found also

Rda7117 plain rotors are under $200 a pair

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/153258736466

I've used them a fair bit for track work. They hold up alright and i replace them once they develop lots of little micro cracks.

  • Like 1

I do highly recommend the attakd 2 price rotors at $500 though. Defo worth the extra dollars.

There's some slotted and dimpled on eBay for 288 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Slotted-Pair-Front-Disc-Brake-Rotors-for-Mitsubishi-Lancer-Evo-X-2-0L-Turbo-/154144900775?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

But for only slightly more, get the attakd

Although not available atm usually there's a few sets of calipers on eBay for around 500

I run Feredo DS Uno pads, but there are lots of options if you aren't doing a lot of track work

I also did the Brembo rears, not worth it, but I wanted it to look consistent front to rear

 

13 hours ago, Tobz said:

I also did the Brembo rears, not worth it, but I wanted it to look consistent front to rear

 

 

Interesting you say that, did you run with just the fronts at any point? Ive been a bit concerned about the way it will affect the bias. Wanted to wait and see before committing to the rears or an external bias controller, but its interesting you dont feel the rears are worth it.

5 hours ago, Unzipped Composites said:

 

Interesting you say that, did you run with just the fronts at any point? Ive been a bit concerned about the way it will affect the bias. Wanted to wait and see before committing to the rears or an external bias controller, but its interesting you dont feel the rears are worth it

Way I see it the front does 75% of the braking, the rears are just there for the ride... As such there's not much benefit upgrading as the original rears don't get all that hot either. For me I think it's mostly cosmetic. Alpha omega reckon the bias shouldn't be effected with either the stock or Brembo rears.

saying that with the massive 350mm rear rotors the brakes are almost stone cold after a track session, they either do very little braking or the heat is dissipating really well from the increase in rotor size. I'm just not sold they are worth the additional $$$

Also never tried just the brembos on the front. But I'm sure others have :)

 

Edited by Tobz

It's easy to run too much brake, think of the extra unsprung and rotating weight. Super big brakes seem to have become a bit of a fashion statement together with large diameter wheels that also add weight. Pads and cooling are the key, using the best pads can in effect mean that less brake weight and expense is required.

On 2/5/2021 at 6:28 PM, 260DET said:

It's easy to run too much brake, think of the extra unsprung and rotating weight. Super big brakes seem to have become a bit of a fashion statement together with large diameter wheels that also add weight. Pads and cooling are the key, using the best pads can in effect mean that less brake weight and expense is required.

Agreed.

On my full weight R33gtr with stock brembos, super dot4 and intima pads I would get major fade half way through flat out 10min session at sandown. After making up some simple air guides to deflect air into the front rotors I would only get minor fade after a full session of thrashing.

Edited by Dobz

Horses for courses. For endurance racing, ducting is a good idea. For time attack, you dont want the extra drag and loss of front downforce that those ducts would come with. You also don't want extra weight from brakes that are unnecessarily large, but most people go with a brute force approach same as having way more power than they can actually drive.

  • Like 1

I mean you have to be pretty specialized to build a car around *1* hot lap. 99.9% of people have a street/track hybrid that they would ideally like to belt the shit out of for the 'short' time of a 20 minute session, 5-6 times a day, once every month.

That would be the ideal.

I don't think any pads/stock hardware alone manage to do that. They weren't really designed to do that either, to be fair.

  • 1 month later...

Ceika sell online and have a good cattledog with various options. Just like all the real brand alternatives they come from Taiwan and even offer carbon fibre rotors. I have bought one set and will buy another for a non Nissan, they are good shit.

As far as rotor diameters go on a 1450 kg FERWD car I'm going for 345x32 front, 304x22 rear which according to calculations should balance well.

Edited by 260DET

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