Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

10 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

There's also another Australian company that makes R32 billet final drives. I can't remember the name though. 

Neat Gearboxes
https://www.neatgearboxes.com.au/

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Neat Gearboxes

 

1 hour ago, robbo_rb180 said:

 

Yes, that's the one! Thanks. I remember going Speedtek over Neat due to the price but clearly it didn't pay off.

Fun fact, PRP started distributing Speedtek parts back in August. Now there's no mention of them anywhere on their site. I don't want to speculate but all I can say is it didn't take long for that partnership to go awry. 

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
6 minutes ago, TurboTapin said:

Fun fact, PRP started distributing Speedtek parts back in August. Now there's no mention of them anywhere on their site. I don't want to speculate but all I can say is it didn't take long for that partnership to go awry. 

Wow you're right!

Google still shows it, but when you click on it, it takes you to empty pages.

Amazing.

Yes, well, this is going to be a perpetual problem for people in the civilised world who have a good idea for a product, but choose to get it made in China because you can't beat the price. The quality out of Chinese manufacture is so wildly variable that it is almost impossible to trust it. You might have the world's best quality out of production from Factory A, and you might have it for a year or two, but suddenly, and without warning, your production is moved to Factory B and you don't notice because mostly it's just as good as Factory A. But then the nightshift at Factory B suddenly goes wonky and 50% of your product starts to have bizarre quality problems. But you don't know about it until they start failing in service. If you're not doing quality inspection sampling at a statistically significant rate, you might grab samples only from the dayshift and they all look fine and you can't tell why you're getting failures. Then, maybe you raise your eyebrows to the company doing they manufacturing in China and they respond with "no problem here" while secretly making changes to the back end, and maybe your production goes back to Factory A for a couple of months (unlikely, because they've got some new guy's stuff being made there and he's still on the honeymoon), or maybe the sack the nightshift boss or maybe you get your production moved to Factory C because they suspect that you suspect that things have gone to shit and that you will pull your production contract from them and they start to care even less.

The only way to produce in China is to have your own people there, accountable to you and you only. And that can't happen if you're a small transmission specialist. Hell, my company is massively bigger than these gearbox/diff guys' businesses and we don't have the resources to run our own operation in China (nor anybody from here willing to go live there to oversee it!!).

9 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Wow you're right!

Google still shows it, but when you click on it, it takes you to empty pages.

Amazing.

If ever you want a good laugh, go read the comments on PRP's Facebook post about the partnership with Speedtek. 

  • Haha 1
24 minutes ago, TurboTapin said:

If ever you want a good laugh, go read the comments on PRP's Facebook post about the partnership with Speedtek. 

Got a link, I am keen for some morning entertainment

 

Bon took me a little while to figure out how to get a link from a Facebook post. Just to clarify the comments are on the original post about them partnering up with Speedtek. Not much love it seems. 

‼ NEW BRAND RELEASE ‼ We're thrilled... - Platinum Racing Products | Facebook

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

My assembler called today and it's confirmed the 2nd Speedtek pinion is in fact toast. He assembled it quickly with the 4.08 final drive to confirm. Worst news is Speedtek isn't answering my emails. I'll give it another few days and then start harassing them by phone. 

Good news, my diff should be ready this week. He just had to finalize a few things as he put it to the side for another urgent project (He seems to prioritize funny car/top fuel work). I'm also still waiting on the delivery of another 4.08 S13 LSD diff to take apart this winter to presumably toss in another 3.3-3.6 final drive by myself as to learn. I will not be repeating this experience again.

Aww Speedtek, how I'm unimpressed... 

Edited by TurboTapin
21 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Fixed your post for North American English.

In Quebec we call them "sac bananes". Banana bag in english lol

Edited by TurboTapin

If you get a gear set of Neat just be aware that they are a Gleeson cut and need to be setup differently. I know a guy who killed one of theirs in 10 laps because his diff shop set it up like a normal helical cut.

The guys at Neat are very helpful and will explain the differences.

2 hours ago, Komdotkom said:

If you get a gear set of Neat just be aware that they are a Gleeson cut and need to be setup differently. I know a guy who killed one of theirs in 10 laps because his diff shop set it up like a normal helical cut.

The guys at Neat are very helpful and will explain the differences.

Thanks for the heads up! I'll take a Gleeson cut over a Chinesium Cut that Speedtek uses all day everyday. Jokes aside, for transparency, Speedktek did finally respond and seems ok with a refund. I'll confirm once it's done. 

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...