R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

[Komdotkom]

3 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

That's unfortunately not an option due to the short length I need (~50mm). I've always ran submersible rubber hose without any issues. It is also what is in there from factory. Thanks for the tip though!

 

I feel like it's something in the fuel, 10 years ago we never had an issue but now everything rubber seems to fail quickly whether it's E85 or 98.

You can use a longer section and just put a loop in it, looks a bit ghetto but doesn't swell up.

500kw should be pretty exciting on the street.

[GTSBoy]

1 hour ago, MBS206 said:

It's not even really flywheel power.

They might assume it and state a flywheel power, but really, hub dynos are measuring it at the hub.

 

Reality of hub vs roller, is the change in inertia, as wheel is gone, and as you said, removing a slip from tyre to roller.

 

Anyone measuring power at the wheel hub, can not claim flywheel power, as we don't know what the losses are in the drive line, especially on cars that aren't brand new.

Yuh, which is why I said it is "flywheel minus drivetrain losses", which is essentially exactly what it is. Presuming you might lose up to 10% (for real) in the drivetrain, you get somewhat closer to flywheel power with a hub dyno than what you measure on roller when you are losing that same drivetrain loss PLUS the somewhat larger tyre-roller loss.

Inertia can be discounted when measuring steady state, which remains an option with either type (unless stupid US inertia roller type, which should never have existed).

[TurboTapin]

I've been busy doing a lot of little things on the car. I had purchased one of every ball joint, tie rod, etc. for the front to replace everything when I first purchased the car 6 or so years ago.

Whatever I hadn't replaced at the time, I decided to do now even if some of the parts still looked fairly good. That came out to the right side kingpin bearings, both tie rod ends and left side lower control arm ball joint. Did another oil change and sent off a sample as well.

I've been working on setting up another VSS. The Haltech GPS has been sucking away my soul. The delay is unbearable. I ended up popping off the rear stub ABS rings off some GTR stubs I had laying around and installing those on my stubs. I had to grind every other tooth off so that it met sensor specs (10mm gap between teeth). I made a small bracket that attached it to a diff bolt. I just have to wire it in this week. 

It was also the first time I've ever pulled off a shrink fit with only a propane torch. Slipped right on with gravity. It's thin enough to get rather toasty.

 

As for why I haven't wired it in yet, I've been waiting for the IC7 firmware update that allows it to be used as I/O. I'm going to toss my I/O Expander and wire it into the IC7... I wanted to get it all done at the same time. Update came out, unfortunately it's rather buggy. I had to turn off I/O Expansion as I kept losing my Canbus connection on the IC7 with it on. I've never really been impressed with Haltechs firmware support as every version always breaks something, but it seems to have gotten worst over the last few months. 

Oh yea and still nothing from Speedtek...

Edited July 23, 2024 by TurboTapin

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Farken Craptek

[TurboTapin]

So I've been working on the car a fair bit, doing a lot of little things. Preparing some projects for this winter, as I'm taking 13 weeks off very soon for parental leave. Have my second kid on the way and he's due any week now. I'll need something to do while he's sleeping. I also usually take the car off the road in about a month and a half, until sometime around the end of March. 

Still making slight adjustments to my tune, as the cold weather settles in. I've also had to start dropping boost and tire pressure as the weather gets cooler. It's getting very swirly at highway speeds. I drop to 20psi at 20C and 18psi spring pressure at 10C IAT's. I'm currently on 255 Falcon RT660's, but may look into running 275's next summer. They will fit, but barely. Might have to raise the rear a tad. 

I'll start redoing my exhaust Monday, as I have the week off. I currently have an oval center muffler and cannon rear muffler. I've been told more then once from people behind me that my rear bumper is going to catch on fire one day. Seems I blow 5-10 second flames after doing a pull. No clue if that's the WMI, as I've never been able to do that before with other cars. I wanted to angle my tip down a tad so flames are pointed down and away from bumper. I also wanted to take the opportunity to reconfigure my exhaust line. I'm going to move my oval muffler to the rear with a pie cut angled tip and put in a new smaller round muffler in the center. I've rocked cannon mufflers on this car for the last few years and want to transition back the oval muffler look. I've also been looking for a stainless project to try out the new solar flux I bought. I'll post pictures on Monday, should be able to wrap that up in a day. 

I'm also picking up another rear subframe this week. I wanted a second so that I could modify one with a gk tech anti squat reduction kit during the winter, and still be able to keep the car a roller so I can back it out of the garage if needed. I will also be caging it this winter. More on that later.

Lastly, Speedtek still hasn't given me diddly squat. Every week for the last 4 weeks, they have been saying next week. They told me Friday to expect a shipping label that day to ship my two bad sets of ring and pinions back and nothing. There's definitely been more contact since I started destroying their company any chance I get on Facebook, but it's still just words without action. 

 

Edited September 29, 2024 by TurboTapin

[TurboTapin]

Wrapped up my catback modifications this morning. I'm loving the pie cut turn down and oval muffler. 

[TurboTapin]

Been busy with the newborn. We originally thought we were going to go for a third, but we're good with two lol. He's starting to actually sleep now so I've had some energy to work on the car. It's been parked away in the garage since late November due to winter. 

I went ahead and redid all my head oil drains. I originally had my front and rear head drain going into the same pipe but have since split them up. I also added an Ethanol content sensor to get ready to run E85 this summer. Tossed it on my return line. Sensor sits nicely under my intake manifold. 

 

I also have a lot of parts that came in for my rear end. I'll be swapping over to a 3.3 final drive and doing the GK teck anti squat mod. While the rear subframe is off, I'll also change every bushing. We're planning on buying another house soon with the condition that I get at a minimum a 2 door garage, so I'll wait to have more room for this.

Now onto the strange things that recently happened... After changing the lower rad hose (It had been sitting in my cabinet for well over a year and was the last hose I had to replace), I let the car idle in the garage to bleed my coolant. After running for a few minutes, it started missing. Got much worst within a minute or two and then stalled and would not restart. My crank sensor decided to crap itself. No damage, no explanation, just died. I went ahead and replaced it with another ZF sensor but the heavier duty stainless model with a shield. Tossed that in and started right up. Has anyone else seen this? I hate when things fail without cause. Luckily this was a blessing in disguise... This lead me to recheck my timing. It seems I may have had a beer or two the last time I had set my TDC angle as I was off exactly 5 degrees... I miscounted a line haha. I was running 5 degrees less then commanded. It's a little embarrassing but helps explain why my dyno operator seemed to think I should be making more then 478rwkws.

 

 

 

 

Edited February 7 by TurboTapin

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

3 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

originally thought we were going to go for a third, but we're good with two

Middle seat good for a slab of beer or Esky for a road trip.

2x kids, means 1x free seat lol.

[Shoota_77]

It's funny how you guys in the Northern Hemisphere stop working on your cars because of the cold. Here in Aus we stop working on them when it gets too hot!  Even with the split system A/C running my shed still sits at around 40 degrees (celcius).  I drip forehead sweat over everything! 

Should see some good results with E85 (and proper timing! ).

[TurboTapin]

4 minutes ago, Shoota_77 said:

It's funny how you guys in the Northern Hemisphere stop working on your cars because of the cold. Here in Aus we stop working on them when it gets too hot!  Even with the split system A/C running my shed still sits at around 40 degrees (celcius).  I drip forehead sweat over everything! 

Should see some good results with E85 (and proper timing! ).

Actually it's the other way around, winter is when we do the most work on our cars! Best time to do big jobs as they can't be driven. I have a winch in the garage as well to push it out and pull it in when the motors out. 

I've just been slacking due to the 2 hours of sleep a night I've been getting :p 

[TurboTapin]

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Middle seat good for a slab of beer or Esky for a road trip.

2x kids, means 1x free seat lol.

And have one of the kids hand them over to the front while on road trips haha

[Shoota_77]

2 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

Actually it's the other way around, winter is when we do the most work on our cars! Best time to do big jobs as they can't be driven. I have a winch in the garage as well to push it out and pull it in when the motors out. 

I've just been slacking due to the 2 hours of sleep a night I've been getting :p 

Ha ha, as long as your shed is well heated!

 

[TurboTapin]

I finally got around to purchasing an actual articulating borescope. Great tool to have, I've been very impressed vs my old regular inspection camera. 

With that being said, sadly I finally found the cause for my oil consumption. I always had the feeling something wasn't right but compression and leak down tests were always perfect and I had already inspected the cylinders. This time i dropped each cylinder to its absolute lowest point and with the better quality camera I found this... Bottom of cylinder 6. 

Scoring looks deep and I'm presuming oil getting by caused the glazing. I already spoke with my assembler, and will be dropping it off as soon as I can pull the motor and get it apart. I'm just hoping it's not deep enough to require boring out from 86.5 ->87mm. Pistons aren't cheap. 

Edited February 23 by TurboTapin

[Duncan]

hmmm that's not ideal. This is a pretty new engine right, will be interesting if your engine guy has any theories about causes

[soviet_merlin]

3 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

I finally got around to purchasing an actual articulating borescope. Great tool to have, I've been very impressed vs my old regular inspection camera.

Which one did you buy? I have always wanted a decent inspection camera but have been unable to tell whether something is cheap junk or cheap junk chunk sold at just a bigger markup

[TurboTapin]

15 hours ago, Duncan said:

hmmm that's not ideal. This is a pretty new engine right, will be interesting if your engine guy has any theories about causes

I've done about 4000km's on it. I'm thinking of maybe "Working" from home aka my garage this week and getting it out so I can drop it off early next week. He said bring it over right away and didn't make any excuses, so it seems like he's going to work with me on getting it resolved asap. I'll let you know what I find when I take it apart later this week. 

[TurboTapin]

14 hours ago, soviet_merlin said:

Which one did you buy? I have always wanted a decent inspection camera but have been unable to tell whether something is cheap junk or cheap junk chunk sold at just a bigger markup

I purchased this one. Very well priced and works great. I was rough with it to see if it will last and had no issues. 

Teslong Two-Way Articulating Borescope with Light, Industrial Endoscope Inspection Camera with Articulated Probe, Flexible Mechanic Fiber Optic Snake Scope Cam for Wall Automotive Engine Inspect-5FT : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific

[TurboTapin]

Got the motor out and torn down. I'll be dropping off the block Monday. Luckily the scoring on Cyl6 is much less pronounced then the pictures made it out to seem. It can barely be felt. If you pass your finger over it 10x you'll barely notice it.

Hopefully by some chance it will only require a honing. I'm not in the mood to buy one size larger pistons or another block. Oddly enough my 6th cylinder with the scoring has extremely clean intake valves compared to my other 5 cylinders. I'm worried the scoring was caused by too much fuel or Water/Methanol washing the cylinder. I'll review some old logs to confirm. 

This was also the first time I pull an engine with the transmission still attached. It went much better then expected. I was worried my CD009 wouldn't make it easy due to its sheer size but it was much easier this way. 

[TurboTapin]

Well some mostly good news and some slight bad news. 

Good news is cylinder 6 did in fact only require a honing and I'm good to run my 86.5mm pistons again. I should also get the block back by end of week. Bad news, had a few surprises pop up.

First, main and rod bearings were trashed. No sign of any heat damage. I knew right away what caused this... I had not packed my oil pump originally and spent a lot more time than I would have liked cranking the motor to get oil pressure. It sounded fine once started so I chucked it up to luck and forgot about it. Luckily rod and crank are fine and just need new bearings. Engine builder agreed that this was the cause. 

 

Another surprise that carbon covered up very well that I didn't catch, something got sucked up and went through cylinder 1, 2 and 3. Luckily this was no cause for concern, just needed a bit of cleaning up. Valves look fine but he will vacuum test the head this week to confirm. I'm presuming this was something left over from welding my intercooler piping, but we'll never know. I'm going to thoroughly reclean everything. 

 

So all in all, happy the motor is fine, and I'll get it back much sooner than expected. I'll also be taking the time to convert my WMI system over to direct port. I'll snap some pictures of that when the parts come in. 

[Duncan]

It may not feel like it to your wallet....but sounds like this was one of those "lucky you did it" rebuilds.

Hopefully you have better luck this time