Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ah shit man, that sucks.  I really feel for you.  Car ownership can be such a bloody painful experience at times!  The highs are high but damn the lows are low......

I'd be guessing at cracked cylinder based on what you're saying.  MLS head gaskets are pretty good (provided block and head are  prepped perfectly) up until big power runs/massive boost so if it's happening at idle in the shed most likely block.

Please let us know how you go and then a rough time frame until your Bullet Billet RB30 block turns up! 😝

Nissan RB30 Billet Block – Bullet Race Engineering

  • Like 2

Not sure if you've read this thread

The Nissan gods will hate me, but....meh, no love lost there

Probably alot cheaper than a billet RB, and parts fall out of the sky where you live

  • Like 1
On 4/9/2022 at 4:06 PM, r32-25t said:

Good luck getting the front diff on the bottom of an LS

The adventra has a diff under an LS. That's likely  not helpful at all in a skyline though.

Sorry to here mate, so this means another SAU build thread? 
Might be able to help out with some front end parts when mine is done, I’m sure there are parts I’ve bought more then once! Lol 

After some thorough inspection we cannot find anything at all wrong with the head or block. how ever we did find an area of the tomei head gasket that looked complete blown out. ive done many never had an issue but this car seems to bring out the worst in eveyone so maybe i pooched it. throwing another head gasket in and trying it. thanks for the help and support. cheers

 

  • Like 1

The block was cracked on outside right from the start I don’t think the prp brace could help it was to late. Thet cracked is fixed with jb weld. And here’s a photo of what I think is the blow out in the head gasket. Can even see little burn marks. I compared it to the gasket I knew was good when I pulled this motor apart the first time to fix the valve guide that was leaking and the old head gasket doesn’t show the same signs as blow out...

00FE92C2-D192-4094-950E-699D4195649F.jpeg

ECFBBD56-8A3E-445C-84B2-B287185700DB.jpeg

8C0274A7-A0F6-4003-9C99-E0B02CA16CAB.jpeg

On 09/04/2022 at 4:23 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Time to find an AWD Stagea block, unicorn they reckon.

Or 2JZ swap, 500kW at the wheels stock motor on stock studs lol.

 

I sware by the stock motor buddy, the motor before this built one was a stock beast! It was killed by a triple plate clutch or I guarantee it would be still going.  Found this little guy too today...like gtsboy said it’s probably gunna crack on the other side....already was lol. I don’t feel I should continue with this block as my pistons and everything else are still good and could go in a new block. I can get a brand new block for 3600 Canadian dollars from boost factory here in Calgary.

299EEC40-B591-44F3-850A-F60BDBD22844.jpeg

  • Like 1

I say this with a good Attitude, I love my car it’s an absolute animal and it handles great but damn the rb26 just doesn’t have the meat it needs to be strong and other than the sound and the power they “can” make I struggle with the fact of how thin they are. Compare it to a 5.9 Cummins it’s just hilarious haha I know it’s apples and oranges but the theory of overkill to me is awesome. Anyway cheers for everyone’s help throughout. I will be back just need to make a solid plan. More attention to detail on the next what ever that’s for sure.

Edited by MoMnDadGTR

Yep sadly that block is for the bin.

Is the crack near the stud adjacent to the head gasket failure?

Did you replace or reuse the head studs?

How confident are you the crack was not there prior to this build?

I have weird luck because I have an sti at 500hp stock motor that I just can’t kill. All my stock rb26 lives well at 500whp. The moment I ever build a motor they always break Haha. I should stick to tree cutting lol. This block snapped at 22psi that’s a joke to me. The rb let me down bad this time.

On 09/04/2022 at 6:14 PM, Duncan said:

Yep sadly that block is for the bin.

Is the crack near the stud adjacent to the head gasket failure?

Did you replace or reuse the head studs?

How confident are you the crack was not there prior to this build?

I think the crack could of been there before yes Duncan. And no the crack is near the middle on exhaust side on the deck. I bet I could run it but it wouldn’t last. I used new studs and gasket 

If I was rich I would send it and see what it could handle, but my heads still good so I’m going to be smart while im ahead. Behind....but ahead. When your oil looks like a toilet bowl at a cheap motel. Lol

B94F87A7-82D4-4ACE-862C-663D1EE4E8E0.jpeg

Edited by MoMnDadGTR
  • Like 1

Cracking around the head bolt holes is common, it’s why I had to throw my block away. I ended up going billet because they fixed all of the rb26 problems and hopefully future proofed for life 

On 09/04/2022 at 6:27 PM, r32-25t said:

Cracking around the he’d bolt holes is common, it’s why I had to throw my block away. I ended up going billet because they fixed all of the rb26 problems and hopefully future proofed for life 

this is all fine and dandy but a little out of the budget i was thinking rb30 run it at 650whp call it a day. can get them from prp with a  brace for a decent price...

Platinum Racing Products - Platinum Prepped RB30 Block

On 10/04/2022 at 9:07 AM, MoMnDadGTR said:

brand new block for 3600 Canadian dollars from boost factory here in Calgary

Might be worth getting it and saving it for the future.

They're worth big money now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...