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11 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

I hope this helps even a little. So on a 20 - 25ish degree day, my oil temp tracks my water temp by like 10 degrees. So water temp 50 degrees, oil temp 40 degrees. They pretty much rise that way together til they both come up to temp. Water never really rises above 75, oil sits around 90ish. 

I run a decent sized oil cooler with a thermostat. Dunno when it opens? maybe around 90ish? No idea. 

I also have the factory coolant/oil heat exchanger thingo which helps bring up oil temps nicely. 

If you're super curious, I can log data on my next drive if you like. 

Me ditto except for not having an oil cooler and not offering data.

15 hours ago, Duncan said:

And to add to that....if you have a dry sump you can get 240v oil heaters for the oil tank which might let you cut a lot of idling time. It can't be good for longevity or oil quality to sit running rich with loose clearances for 12min....

I run a 240V heater in mine, works just like a kettle element. My car spends most of its time gathering dust so when I do get around to driving it I pre heat the oil for 15 minutes and then slip the belt off and prime it with a drill. It's a bit of mucking around but I never worry about cold oil on the out lap although I do have to partially block the oil cooler on cold days at PI to get it up to an acceptable temp within 2 laps.

  • Like 2

I can only go off of the factory ECU logs but a pretty stock RB26 will warm up the coolant in about 400 seconds to 76C from 20C and another 60 seconds to get to 80C. So 6-8 minutes if coolant temps start at about 20C. Oil is probably 2-3 minutes behind, hard to time it exactly because I'm looking at a gauge instead of nicely time aligned charts sampled over Consult.

Also, when the engine is warmed up the power steering idle up switch triggers a straight 8% bump in AAC duty cycle but when the engine temps are cold it's 7%. Not sure why there's this temperature dependence but that's what it is.

1 hour ago, Komdotkom said:

I run a 240V heater in mine, works just like a kettle element. My car spends most of its time gathering dust so when I do get around to driving it I pre heat the oil for 15 minutes and then slip the belt off and prime it with a drill. It's a bit of mucking around but I never worry about cold oil on the out lap although I do have to partially block the oil cooler on cold days at PI to get it up to an acceptable temp within 2 laps.

I only park hard and hypermile my cars so this sounds like way too much effort, that is a really cool solution to the problem though.

  • Like 1
16 hours ago, The Bogan said:

On all of my cars and bikes, both built engines and standard, I just start them, put my seat belt on, then drive off like Nanna, I've never had an issue

In saying that, they don't get the loud pedal for at least 15 minutes from a cold start

15 minutes is my rule of thumb because I don't have a oil temp gauge

Disclaimer: I'm just assume that my oil, 10w40, is at least matching my coolant temps after 15 minutes of normal driving

What do people who monitor oil temp find IRT how long it takes for engine oil to get around, say, 90°c from a cold start, and what weight oils????

I remember watching some guys at the drags doing maintenance between runs, one thing they did was a oil change, the oil looked like it had the consistency of water

When I talked to him about it he said the engine was built for low weight oil, it was all about power, clearances, oil pump, as well as the oil needed to be thin as it was started, rolled in for a burn out, then launched for the run, all within about 30 seconds, after the run the oil was dropped again as it considered toast from methanol contamination

Yes, that is at the extreme end of performance for oil weights and alcohol contamination, but I did find it interesting, especially as everyone was using E85 in their built daily/cruisers at the time, and spun bearings were a common occurrence 10???? years ago

I assume all the people running billet blocks and big(ish) power are using E85, how often do people change their oil running E85?

I also assume it isn't every 5k km like me on 98

I assume everyone will drink for every time I said assume

Hah, I run a IC7, and monitor my temps IRT. I run a 19 row oil cooler so it takes a while to come up, about 20 mins of street driving in summer time. I baby the car till the temps come up. Coolant temps around 66 degrees by then(Nismo thermostat). 

But I cant flat shift till an hour of driving as my box needs to be around 67!!! I run a gearbox cooler behind the rear diff... 

Id be lucky to see 1500ks before I drop my oil(pump tune only for now).

  • Like 1

As @The Bogan has a LS I can chime in :D. I have an oil cooler which is blocked on the street by my indicator which I take out for the track.

Generally driving around normally I won't see oil temps above 80 with the cooler, ever. My Coolant will also sit at about that value and fans generally never kick on. However my water temp will get to 80c in about .. two minutes (by the end of the street/1km) whereas oil will take your 20ish minutes to get up to temp. And by "up to temp" I mean 70ish. Start using revs though and this will get to 90-100 pretty damn quickly, and by 'revs' I mean 2500-3000.

  • Like 1

Further anecdote. <10°C ambient this AM. At ~12 minutes after start oil temp was still just under 80°C. So, it would have been >60°C and reasonably safe to give it some load probably ~6 minutes before. Normal stable oil T is 90°C, same as coolant, which should be no surprise with the stock heat exchanger.

  • Like 1
On 03/07/2023 at 4:38 PM, Predator1 said:

I'm guessing this is so your oil temps come up? Or is it coolant temps as well? Do you run oil coolers? What temps do you start driving yours at, and what grade oil?

Oil temp to come up

Coolant temps to come up

Oil pressure to come down

20w60 oil

I'll start driving once oil temp and pressure are within parameters 

  • 1 month later...
On 18/6/2023 at 11:44 AM, Butters said:

So this is pretty much my billet block on street nightmare come true, looks like safety's saved him though. 

11:34 if your link resets the start point. 

 

 

 

I just watched his latest video and he has put the same power steering kit back on the engine, hopefully he has more luck this time 

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