R34 trans fill plug seized by Satan himself

[Idiotwithaskyline]

Hello friends I am back,

I have the seemingly ever so common problem of a seized fill plug but I have tried the most common responses of penetrating fluid, acetone and atf, blowtorching, and even a floor jack underneath the ratchet. The only progress I have made is messing up the fill plug itself but no progress on its removal. Thanks in advance

 

I know putting it on a hoist would make this far easier but I don’t have one so putting into a shop will be the final straw if I can’t get it.

[Duncan]

There are square drive sockets available in 13mm instead of regular 1/2" extensions or breaker bars, if you hammer one of those in then get something long onto it you should get there (especially after plenty of heat on the area)

[Idiotwithaskyline]

1 minute ago, Duncan said:

There are square drive sockets available in 13mm instead of regular 1/2" extensions or breaker bars, if you hammer one of those in then get something long onto it you should get there (especially after plenty of heat on the area)

I’ve been using the 13mm square socket for most of the time, still no luck. Absolutely no space in the tunnel to hammer it directly, although I’ve tried hammering the ratchet handle.

[GTSBoy]

The end game gets to ....

Weld a piece of 12.5mm square in there. Grab with 24" pipe wrench and try to twist it off?

Drill it out, hacksaw the remainder, tap out with chisel.

[joshuaho96]

3 hours ago, Idiotwithaskyline said:

I’ve been using the 13mm square socket for most of the time, still no luck. Absolutely no space in the tunnel to hammer it directly, although I’ve tried hammering the ratchet handle.

Have you tried the environment-destroying method of an upside down can of bitterant-free "compressed air/air duster" sprayed into the fill plug to freeze it as much as possible? This is how I got the rear block heater pipe fitting out on the engine. You freeze it so much that it starts to shrink relative to the transmission case threads and it can also make the RTV/silicone seal easier to break.

The plug still looks like it will engage the 13mm socket so I'd try it first to see if it'll come off as is. My personal experience is you'll need a floor jack and a breaker bar to get the kind of force needed. If you think it's going to slip and damage the fill plug you're going to have to sacrifice the fill plug and use a welder or somehow get epoxy to cure very, very well to replace the damaged metal and bond to the socket.

[TurboTapin]

Is this a RWD box? If so, fill it through the shifter hole. 

[kevboost7]

Try to impact the handle of the ratchet with a rubber mallet. It acts like an impact gun. I find it works better than using a longer lever. 

[joshuaho96]

30 minutes ago, kevboost7 said:

Try to impact the handle of the ratchet with a rubber mallet. It acts like an impact gun. I find it works better than using a longer lever. 

Yep, a rubber dead blow in an appropriate size is my go-to but those transmission fill plugs often have RTV and way too much torque applied to them.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

On 24/05/2023 at 2:15 AM, TurboTapin said:

Is this a RWD box? If so, fill it through the shifter hole. 

Just do this, save your energy for something else like arguing with Australian RB parts manufacturers 😂

[The Bogan]

A manual impact driver is a handy tool to have on hand

[MBS206]

Going off the fresh grooves, it looks like you're only at half depth, so go for more engagement.

It also looks like the tool is rolling too, which will aid the tool in stripping the head, it also means the torque you're isn't being fully transferred to actually undo the bolt.

 

If you're using a ratchet, ditch it. Get a GOOD breaker bar.

Ratchets also absorb torque, and aren't designed for huge torque or things like pipes being added to them, or jacks.

 

You'll likely find the ratchet 1/2" drive bit has a bit of play in it, which will possibly be what is allowing the tool bit to end up rolling, rather than purely twisting.