Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

15 minutes ago, admS15 said:


Interesting, Ive also been running ad08r. I find their grip on the street wet and dry acceptable and pretty phenomenal on the track (dry) for a street tyre. I've done 2.5 track days on them and around 7000km daily driving on track focused alignment and they still look to be around 75-80%. I did flip them after the track days and have since gone to A050 for track. I only managed to go 1.6 secs quicker on the A050. The difference was a lot more front end grip and a touch more rear. Greg, what year production where yours, are they the latest version? Overall I think the ad08r is an awesome all round tyre, but since I now have a second set of wheels now with dedicated track tyres, I'll probably just buy cheaper performance Street tyres next time around. Also interested in the NS2R's

From memory mine were 2-3 years old when they went on, which isn't critically messed up, but they were new, still had stickers and cling wrap and all that. Just heard stories that people would last 40,000kms on them or something similar, but it certainly doesn't appear that way for me and I DONT drive around the streets like a hoon. I reckon in that 8000kms on the rear I may have given it a squirt at most a handful of times, not breaking traction either.

The only reason the fronts are sort of still semi-OK is because the inner shoulder is literally flattened out from camber wear. If I had less camber I'd wager they would be toast as well down the center.

THey'd be worth the money if they lasted a bit longer, but I too was thinking about getting a 2nd set of track tyres in the future. So something that is 90% as "good" as an AD08R but lasted considerably longer would be a good street bet for me, and maybe less camber and more rotation of tyres. Only running -2deg  up front mind you though.

Does anything fit the bill here in 2017?

From memory mine were 2-3 years old when they went on, which isn't critically messed up, but they were new, still had stickers and cling wrap and all that. Just heard stories that people would last 40,000kms on them or something similar, but it certainly doesn't appear that way for me and I DONT drive around the streets like a hoon. I reckon in that 8000kms on the rear I may have given it a squirt at most a handful of times, not breaking traction either.
The only reason the fronts are sort of still semi-OK is because the inner shoulder is literally flattened out from camber wear. If I had less camber I'd wager they would be toast as well down the center.

THey'd be worth the money if they lasted a bit longer, but I too was thinking about getting a 2nd set of track tyres in the future. So something that is 90% as "good" as an AD08R but lasted considerably longer would be a good street bet for me, and maybe less camber and more rotation of tyres. Only running -2deg  up front mind you though.
Does anything fit the bill here in 2017?

So far, I've had federal rsr, Achilles 123s and the ad08r. The ad08r have lasted the best out of those. I'm happy with price and grip of rsr but the noise. NS2R is on my shortlist for sure, unless I find another ripper deal on Yokohamas. I'm even considering nankang ar1 as my next track tyre[emoji87]

Post is also in the V36 section, but I am moving more towards tyre choices now, rather than trying to see what others have done specifically for V36 coupe tyre sizes.

Car: 2010 V36 Coupe SP Manual

Mods: Minimal other than whiteline adjustable sway bars.

Replacing: RE050A.

Looking for a decent street tyre that will see one or two track days at wakefield in the next 2 years. I'm OK with waiting for warmth in the tyre, but don't really want something that has to be driven hard to get grip into it as I had some of them on the S15. It's coming into winter now otherwise I wouldn't have cared... But I want something reasonably sticky so not prepared for anything less than the grip level of the RE050A's.

Tyre sizes are making this a harder choice. OEM 225/45/19 and 245/40/19. Front rims 8.5 inch and rear 9 inch.

Looking at combo's 245/40/19 and 265/35/19 (about 1% smaller, 275 a little wide and will fit but not ideal i feel). 235/45/19 and 255/40 (good choice as F&R are both 1% taller). Speedo already reads 7% over (so 100 on the speedo is only 93 or so but this isn't a big decider).

 

- PS4 no combo of sizes suitable, as in only the rear size, so ruling them out.

- Invo's heard mixed opinions so ruling them out to make it easier.

- Super Sports seem fairly decent reviews. Super sports would mean 245/40/19 on front and probably 265/35/19 on rear (275/35/19 is pushing the limit on 9 inch wheel and don't want to increase sidewall roll but they are also available). Around $1500 for all 4. 

- All sounding OK except the PS4S improved in a lot of areas over the super sports... they will land in July (estimate) so there will be a better replacement soon damn why did I need to read that :) . Why can't the PS4S be here already????????? Would have made the decision easy. Imported they are about $1900 in stock sizes so the most expensive option in my options so far.

- AD08R can't seem to locate anything suitable for my sizes unfortunately.

- S001 are meant to be OK, but some not so positive reports for bridgstone although mainly positive so not sure what to think here. 1% up in diameter both front and rear (235/45/19 and 255/40/19) so speedo getting closer to right. Sizes are OK. $1200

- Hankook RS3 in the only option suitable of 245/40/19 and 275/35/19 for $948. Cheapest decent tyre. Some mixed reports, but overall OK. Some reports of not having a lot of traction which is making me hesitate a little. The rear tyre size are pushing the limits of what I would like and no 265/35 available. Not many other combo's to stay close or as per OEM rolling diameter for them.

- RE050A's well I don't really want to buy them again. Supposedly some like them, but not generally regarded as a great tyre. Hard for me to compare as they are the only ones I have had on it.

So now I am down to the PS4S (imported), the S001's and the RS3's... Or wait for the PS4S to come here. Currently the PS4S are twice the RS3's and the S001's sit in the middle. Happy to be corrected on pour choices or comments above.

Edited by Pete_Repeat
  • Like 1

I've driven RS-3 in the rain many times (on my car), they grip very well. Sadly hard to get sizes in 19".

RE050 is an excellent street tyre, but I think they'd go past their effective range on the track.

What about NT-05?

I was going to say check the below thread with positive AR-1 feedback, but then I realised you've already been in that thread... $130 seems like fallen off the back of a truck price, which means awesome bang for buck! contemplating these for my next set of track tyres (KU36 currently) at $190 a pop on ebay though (225/45/16).

 

 

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, GTofuS-T said:

I was going to say check the below thread with positive AR-1 feedback, but then I realised you've already been in that thread... $130 seems like fallen off the back of a truck price, which means awesome bang for buck! contemplating these for my next set of track tyres (KU36 currently) at $190 a pop on ebay though (225/45/16).

 

 

 

thanks! knew i had posted about it somewhere else. couldnt find it... and yes name cant be said :P

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
On 18/05/2017 at 10:51 AM, Adz2332 said:

how good are ar1 nankangs for the track?

can get 265 18s for $130 each

 

http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Nankang/AR-1.htm

 

For $130 you can't go wrong - what is the manufacture date on them though ?

On 17/05/2017 at 3:54 PM, Pete_Repeat said:

Post is also in the V36 section, but I am moving more towards tyre choices now, rather than trying to see what others have done specifically for V36 coupe tyre sizes.

Car: 2010 V36 Coupe SP Manual

Mods: Minimal other than whiteline adjustable sway bars.

Replacing: RE050A.

Looking for a decent street tyre that will see one or two track days at wakefield in the next 2 years. I'm OK with waiting for warmth in the tyre, but don't really want something that has to be driven hard to get grip into it as I had some of them on the S15. It's coming into winter now otherwise I wouldn't have cared... But I want something reasonably sticky so not prepared for anything less than the grip level of the RE050A's.

Tyre sizes are making this a harder choice. OEM 225/45/19 and 245/40/19. Front rims 8.5 inch and rear 9 inch.

Looking at combo's 245/40/19 and 265/35/19 (about 1% smaller, 275 a little wide and will fit but not ideal i feel). 235/45/19 and 255/40 (good choice as F&R are both 1% taller). Speedo already reads 7% over (so 100 on the speedo is only 93 or so but this isn't a big decider).

 

- PS4 no combo of sizes suitable, as in only the rear size, so ruling them out.

- Invo's heard mixed opinions so ruling them out to make it easier.

- Super Sports seem fairly decent reviews. Super sports would mean 245/40/19 on front and probably 265/35/19 on rear (275/35/19 is pushing the limit on 9 inch wheel and don't want to increase sidewall roll but they are also available). Around $1500 for all 4. 

- All sounding OK except the PS4S improved in a lot of areas over the super sports... they will land in July (estimate) so there will be a better replacement soon damn why did I need to read that  . Why can't the PS4S be here already????????? Would have made the decision easy. Imported they are about $1900 in stock sizes so the most expensive option in my options so far.

- AD08R can't seem to locate anything suitable for my sizes unfortunately.

- S001 are meant to be OK, but some not so positive reports for bridgstone although mainly positive so not sure what to think here. 1% up in diameter both front and rear (235/45/19 and 255/40/19) so speedo getting closer to right. Sizes are OK. $1200

- Hankook RS3 in the only option suitable of 245/40/19 and 275/35/19 for $948. Cheapest decent tyre. Some mixed reports, but overall OK. Some reports of not having a lot of traction which is making me hesitate a little. The rear tyre size are pushing the limits of what I would like and no 265/35 available. Not many other combo's to stay close or as per OEM rolling diameter for them.

- RE050A's well I don't really want to buy them again. Supposedly some like them, but not generally regarded as a great tyre. Hard for me to compare as they are the only ones I have had on it.

So now I am down to the PS4S (imported), the S001's and the RS3's... Or wait for the PS4S to come here. Currently the PS4S are twice the RS3's and the S001's sit in the middle. Happy to be corrected on pour choices or comments above.

 

With the v36 i think you can go max 20mm bigger than factory to be safe.  If its a daily with occasional track i would go with michelin pilot sport 2, i think they are cheaper than the 4 from what i saw

11 minutes ago, R377 said:

 

With the v36 i think you can go max 20mm bigger than factory to be safe.  If its a daily with occasional track i would go with michelin pilot sport 2, i think they are cheaper than the 4 from what i saw

 

if you gonna rip through semis for everyday use in a couple of years, st george have some cheap tyres manufactured a few years ago (check dates)

http://www.stgeorgetyres.com.au/tyres/productstyres.aspx

245 and 265 have some good options - federal and toyo are cheap also

6 hours ago, Adz2332 said:

have a full set of 265s ar1s will be trying them out in a bout a month at a track day will report back of what i think of them

 Mallalla ?

what mods u got for 383 kw !!!  ?

On 01/03/2017 at 9:16 PM, kingtube69 said:

Michelin Pilot Sport 4 (Initial review) 

Dry Grip: 9/10
Wet Grip: 9/10
Value for money: 8/10
Wear: NFI yet

I swapped from the Rotalla to the MPS4 and there is a massive difference, so much more predictability and so much more stability in the wet. So far I have done about 500kms and they don't disappoint. I'll post an update eventually once I have wound up some more kms on the tyres. 

have you done any track days yet ?

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...