Robocop2310

Nice clean car. Create a builds section would love to follow your build updates and wekcome!

Welcome but why is this WTB here in new intros should be in Sales section.

I think your wheels are nice as is no need for spacers which would defect your GTR and cause issues. Your wheels are sticking out a lot already and the rear looks very similar to the 400R’s.

Welcome mate! Looking forward to your contributions. I think your wheels are nice as is no need for spacers which could defect your GTR and cause issues. Your wheels are sticking out a lot already! Looks like 400R already as is!

Welcome mate! Looking forward to your contributions.

Nice build write up and I'm glad you're not sparing any expenses on your GTR. Cosmetically - you need to get rid of the old an dated orange side and front indicator housing for some clear Nismo ones. Ged a set of N1 carbon fiber two-piece wing blades for the rear and that'll set it off nicely. The rest it is nice as is in my opinion.

Hey mate, although getting wheels with better offset is probably the way to go I can appreciate forking out extra cash isn't always an option for most. If you must use a spacer (can be safe if only done right) then use a hub-centric one (sits flush onto the wheel's hub). The ones you have although would have been hub-centric are split-on ones with no extended studs you would would have had to get longer studs for them to work with your current wheel. Alternatively and is the better option, get hub-centric one with their own extended wheel studs so they would sit on your current studs then have their own protruding studs whereby your wheel would sit on. Make sure the PCD and and centre bore diameters are correct for your car and be mindful of some rubbing when turning or cornering. For the rear of a GTR and based on your wheels offset, I reckon 15mm is max do not go any further. Good luck.

I hate “bolt on” flares from Rocket Bunny and Liberty Walk. Nothing beats keeping the stock body and putting nice wheels on or some additional body pieces that can be easily removed if you ever change your mind. Cutting the fenders and running ridiculous spacers to fill them is a big no no in my book.

Check starter motor and alternator. Also check spark plugs and coils could be damaged or on the way out.

GREAT WORK!!! Happy ending.

Makes us Melbournians feel special.

Make sure you blocked off everything else these two connectors look good. Fire her you and let it idle for 10 minuites then take for a drive to test. Good luck mate!

Please confirm exactly where the two tubes on the side of the MBC (manual boost controller) are connected to?

Hey mate, I cannot make our exactly what’s what from your photos but the one end needs to go to the throttle body for boost pressure as mentioned above so I don’t understand why it’s not hooked up and where else it’s going. Follow it with your fingers and see where it goes?

No probs yep check alarm settings and relay wiring as mentioned and you’d be sorted.

Could be but in most i understand this is rule.,

Good luck mate. I understand playing around with cars is a bottomless pit. If the problem is if this doesn’t fix it it may be something that’s damaged so you will have to take it to a shop to avoid further damage.

Hey mate, it still looks totally exposed and unless you’re going fast on a cold day, it’s still going to suck in heat from the engine. Proper CAIs have an air tunnel from either the bottom of the engine bay or front air ducts where the pod and pipping to the AFM to bring in cold air. I agree the pod filter has a better sucking sound, but the General rule is only one air induction rule so if you have a FMIC then the pod is illegal.

Hey mate, personally I don't think it you should have Nismo end caps unless you're going for the R33 Nismo 400R look with bodykit and similar wheels and the works. I have GTR end caps on and find it looks best but each to his own of course but agree hardly see them around unless it's been self fabricated.

Hey mate, what alarm system do you have and did you have a flat battery or something that required a jump start? This happened to my GTR a while back turned out my alarm system went nuts after a jump start to had to be reconfigured because it had something to do with the alarm's control with the door circuit as the ignition light is designed to be on when the doors are open and the lights are on to give you viewing angles to start the car. OR, check your relays as something is wired incorrectly like a chap had the aircon relay is connected to the radiator fan relay via a one way diode, which switches the thermo fan on everytime aircon is on so just put it back to stock and you're back to normal. Good luck mate.

Hey mate, I think this may work. I'll summarise briefly: - Turbosmart BC piece will have to ends connected; one goes to the Wastegate actuator port and the other to the Turbo's boost port (located along the throttle body). So if you have any other connections left, it ought to be blocked off completely as at the moment it's going back into your stock boost solenoid. Also check all clamps and ensure there is no leakage anywhere...check AFM too and air intake too. - Once you correctly hook everything up. Turn the car on and led it idle for around 10 minutes for the ECU to recognise the changes - this may do nothing but I've always done this to give the car a chance to accept changes and it's never harmed anything so you may want to give it a shot nothing to lose then take it for a drive and see what happens? If this doesn't work then there's something more sinister at work here so you.re better off taking it to a mechanic. Good luck mate.

See my recent setup diagram and follow that plus above and you’ll be right.

Hey mate, according to your drawing: Red is from waste gate to boost tee - CHECK Yellow is from boost tee to t piece - CHECK White is to turbo from t piece - ?? Black is to turbo from t piece - ?? Why two tubes to turbo? Should one go to engine bay (plumb back valve) or an external blow off valve? The below diagram shows how Turbosmart suggests the manual BC to be installed. Suggest you also clamp the sides to the BC too as one sold appears to be not fully in?

My advice is for fairly major upgrades like fuel pump change - get a shop to install it for peace of mind and safety unless you’re very knowledgeable in this area.

Hey mate, good to hear some improvement. Upon viewing your video, I cannot hear the actuator opening or closing at all although granted low revs. Also do you have a stock or aftermaeher BOV check for leakage there too. Be patient and check all your hoses and hosing to and from your air intake and wastegste etc it feels something is wrong around these areas and fasten and tighten everything. Also like GSTBOY suggested please take better photos of how the boost controller is installed.