niZmO_Man

Umm, there is a PDF with a walk-through kind of thing.

^ That. One can argue that "there are so many ways to design a #-spoke wheel", but that doesn't mean you can copy them. Isn't the P45 a copy of the Bee*R B5, which is a copy of Nismo LMGT4?

Ah right, not sure if you posted that in here (if you did I missed it). Thanks for the update.

Umm, so no R32 GT-R struts for me?

Standard looks better.

I wouldn't bother with drilled rotors. Try QFM A1RM. They don't squeak cold and stop very well. Contact GSL Rallysport

Cool. Why not post this up in the wanted to buy section?

I reckon they would make cheap/semi decent pencil beams, as fog lights or something. Just a customised cutoff shield, mount it in the bumper somewhere, rally car mode

Size of the catback?

Thanks gents.

I just threw out "Hyluxtek" ballast #2 which blew up. My car has relays so it's not like it's getting clean voltage. The kit was ~$150. That $35 kit won't last. I know, I threw two pairs of their kind in the bin after 1-2 months of service. Also, since you have R32 projectors, you must be loving the pencil beam

Car drives a bit weird. Better make a thread on SAU forums instead of actually checking shit.

Try a working AFM to test. Throw a new set of spark plugs (BCPR6ES, should be gapped to 0.8mm) in it. I don't rev my car past 3k rpm until the oil temp starts coming up.

GTFO troll Liked the page. Good to see genuine enthusiasts of the female kind.

Evening SAU'ers, Does anyone have a recommendation on where to get either: - Helicoil kits or the coils themselves - Have someone put a coil in? I need to get a coil put into an R34 Brembo caliper (M14 to M12, 1.5mm pitch), I somehow managed to pull one out. Sydney location please. I don't mind purchasing one online (not from overseas due to shipping costs/wait).

S15 have 4pots, so some good pads and it should be good. But as stated earlier, speak to engineer(s) first.

I think you should use this picture:

Run it on methanol? Those drag people know what they're doing with their 3,000 hp engines.

Not much help, but it might point you in the right direction. Okay, I saw a couple of things that doesn't sound right. 3. Replaced Choke - Your car doesn't have a carburettor, so there is no "choke". What you would look at in regards to this is the coolant temp sensor (two pin plug near the thermostat housing, yellow I think). Not really relevant to your issue though. 4. Adjusted Throttle Sensor - You usually don't need to do this. Is your car automatic? 9. Fuel Filter cleaned (SENSORS READ FINE, BUT SOMEONE SUGGESTED THIS MIGHT BE THE ISSUE and needs replacement) - You don't clean the fuel filter, you replace it with a new one. I forgot the exact price, but I think they go for about $25. 10. Air Mass Filter cleaned - I'm guessing this is the air filter? Throw it in the bin and replace with a new one. Paper air filter (Ryco A360) go for $10-15 dollars. I can think of two things: 1. AFM - the air flow meter (on the air box) is playing up (clean with contact cleaner as mentioned). Might need solder fix (search in the how-to section), or replacement with a known working one. 2. IAC or AAC - auxillary air or idle air control valves on the intake plenum. Usually you take them out carefully and clean them up. I think they is a guide in the how-to section. Does it run fine when it's cold?

Flares + wider tyres?

Pictures.

Nah, contact said SAU sponsor for Resma. I have QFM HPX and they're pretty good, but front wheels do get a bit dusty. Just wash the car every week.

Depends on what you're putting through them.

Contact GSLRallysport, they should help you out. Just put up with the brake dust man, stopping power is more important.

CAS perhaps? Tried another dizzy (I know, pretty hard to find). Replace the CAS anyway, the bearings are probably stuffed (open the dizzy up and have a look).