joshuaho96

The g-sensor of the R32 won't affect whether pulling the fuse disables the system. The R33 + R34 uses a failsafe solenoid to do what you're talking about.

AFAIK if you ask people that restore these cars all the time they say the R33/R34 have way, way worse rustproofing than the R32. Even before you account for issues like the strut towers holding water.

There is always rust on those spots for R33s. The only question is how much. Somewhere between surface rust and a hole forming. Salt spray especially is kryptonite for these cars so I don't really know what to tell you there.

Unfortunately a pretty big job to fix. And if there’s rust there I bet you have more waiting under the plastic cowling near where the wipers sit and the A pillar drains.

Even if you have a passing interest in this stuff you need to make a big effort to learn about it on your own these days. Uni will not teach you anything practical. Even the mechanical engineers interested in engine calibration/combustion spent their days learning the thermo diagrams but not much else. Zero time spent actually figuring out what any of that translates to in reality. It's a weird world where the information is more available than ever but seemingly none of it is used.

E30 is popular in my area to bump up octane enough to make enough power on our terrible fuel quality in California while not suffering too much of a range deficit. It also helps with not destroying HPFPs in GDI applications.

Personally even if I planned on running straight E85 all the time with no variability to account for cold start I would run a flex fuel sensor purely because any time you switch between pump gas and E85 you'd have to either fully drain the tank. I want to be able to switch to pump gas halfway, end up with E30 or whatever it ends up being and just keep driving without having to deal with AFR trims being all over the place.

Tomei USA vs Tomei JP have different logos. Tomei USA: Tomei JP:

Supposedly those are drag-only and can only be shifted up. To go back down a gear requires going into neutral to reset the shifter then trying to rev-match your way into the desired gear.

Leakdown test is the next step to see where you're losing all your compression.

I doubt it's necessary for 1 year. I also wouldn't inject before the intake manifold. Drive it and get it properly warmed up, let it cool down so the engine isn't a burn hazard, then remove the intake manifold collector hose after the intercooler and spray short bursts into the engine while cranking with the EFI fuse unplugged.

400 kW sounds highly optimistic for the GTIII-SS considering it's a smaller turbo than the original GT-SS. The best I've seen from a Mustang dyno is something like 300 kW on the dot. I would personally be happy with something like an honest 280 kW to the wheels.

Codes should blink out on the control unit in the trunk yes. You might be able to try and ground terminal 4 on the Consult connector without the engine running to get the codes to blink out, or maybe it'll just do it regardless of whether any terminals are jumpered: https://sites.google.com/site/tyndago/gt-rattesainfrormation I would also try and see what's going on with your pressure switch with a multimeter.

I'm not sure I understand. When checking the factory service manual it explicitly says you must have the ignition switch on in order to have the pump run. Have you checked for codes on the ATTESA unit? I wonder if your pressure switch is working as intended. The bleeder mode is super simple, just running the pump to reach target pressure and switching off once it does. I'm pretty sure you don't need anything from the ECU either. Lack of fluid flow in your diff might be something clogged in the system but I haven't tried bleeding a known good system yet to see how much fluid should come out.

Internal single port wastegates will probably end up somewhere around double wastegate spring pressure if you just have it open to atmosphere. A hard fuel cut on overboost will probably save the engine but it'll be quite violent to experience. Someone local to me had their timing belt jump and shred itself on their crank trigger from an overboost fuel cut which definitely ruined their day. It's also possible that the timing belt was overtensioned but in general it's better to not test the limits of your equipment.

If they don't have a recess it's basically guaranteed you need to have the valve recession machined into the pistons. The extra 20 degrees of cam advance increases the valve lift that occurs at TDC between the exhaust and intake phase. UP Garage in the USA does this to stock cast pistons so you can absolutely do it on your CP pistons too. The precise amount of relief you need to cut is hard for me to say but an experienced engine builder should be able to figure it out when taking measurements.

I have a punch set with some absolutely tiny punches, any chance you could order smaller ones? I'm not at all handy with machining though so my first reaction to most problems like this is to throw money at it.

Generally speaking if you're marring up a machined surface you're probably doing it wrong. Is it possible to use a small punch, rubber hammer, and a socket to tap it out?

Woof, I would've figured like a decade of revisions to those parts and experience from the N55/B58 would've fixed those issues by now if you paid up for the latest part numbers. I've seen shops in the US that show how to drill out and weld in larger bushings on the wastegate actuators to try and get the actuator arm to stop making those noises too. I still never quite understood how an RB can have 175k miles on the original turbos with no wastegate rattle yet the N54 can be so troubled with decades of advances in material design and available parts and experience using said parts to BMW engineers.

PartsForNissans out in Arizona if you're in the US. Or any other Nissan USA dealer.

N54s are notorious in the US for a steady stream of failures but by now I'm pretty sure the biggest issues like HPFP, injectors, wastegate rattle, etc have all been figured out. So if you're willing to invest the time/money/etc into getting all the fixes done if the car hasn't had them done yet then you can have a pretty reliable engine.

Use some rubber hose to narrow down where the noise is coming from. I couldn't tell you for sure whether there are any easy direct swaps but most likely you're going to need a new ECU at the very least.

T550Bs? The older M7655/M8260 are terrible even by the standards of relatively ancient stuff like the GTIII-SS/GT-SS/GT2860R/etc turbos.

I would target 206 N-m in that case and then torque until you can get the pin in. Or like 25% of the way to 275 N-m.

Check RB20 stock dwell time but RB26 coils have 2 ms dwell on the stock ECU and the R35 conversions work just fine without a tune at stock-ish power. Going to R35 coils is cheaper in the long run with how insanely expensive the ignitor is. I bought a replacement but most likely if the ignitor ever breaks again I'm going R35 coils.